Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV? Join our Forum!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.


2004 Yamaha Kodiak 400 Lining Up TDC Mark

Recommended Posts

Hi, I'm new here and after reading many posts there seems to be knowledgeable people here. I wanted to adjust the valves in 2004 kodiak 400 4x4.

i tried to line the "T" line up for top dead centre but it won't stay there. What the problem is that when I move the wheel to line it up it simply moves about 1" to the left off the mark. It's like it springs off. I took the spark plug out thinking maybe it was because of compression but that did not help. Has anyone else had this trouble lining up the straight line beside the "T" on the flywheel? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks John

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Welcome to QUADCRAZY! Were you able to get it squared away? I changed your topic title to 2004 Yamaha Kodiak 400 Lining Up TDC Mark to be more descriptive.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

The  only way  I  know of  if it  doesn't stay  on TDC  when  you set it there  is to  physically   jam  the  motor  from turning over. I  have no  idea  what   is making it  move unless it  is the  magnets  in the  magneto.  If  that  is the  case ,  the  motor  is still  close enough  to  TDC  to  set the valves.



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

It could've that,I have no idea. When I physically move the wheel to find TDC there is the one spot while turning it that it wants to.spring ahead. That is where the TDC mark is thus it won't stay on the mark. I was thinking maybe it was because the valves were to tight on the exhaust side but I loosened that side right off and it still does it.

Edited by Cashjon
Add more info

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Brent Wright
      I've cleaned the carb.still didnt fix.any suggestions?
    • By fishinnnc
      I just bought this thing and got the carb all cleaned today and it was running like a champ. There was a spare hot wire hanging down that was not hooked up to anything. I found it when I took all the covers off and did the carb work. Unfortunately I forgot it as well when I fired her up after cleaning and replacing the carb. While I was running her, the wire was lying across the exhaust pipe. The exhaust got hot, melted the insulation and next thing I know I see sparks flying everywhere Bike immediately shut down and all lights went off. I have nothing on the console now when I turn the key over. I fear I have fried my ECU. I found one fuse back by the box, a 30 amp, but it was good. Are there any other fuses on these things? Is there a way to test the ECU? Could it be the rectifier or voltage regulator?
    • By JacobSlabach
      hey so never ran into this before but i recently got a 04 honda rubicon 500.  bought it from my doctor not running and the front brakes were locked up.   cleaned the carb and it fired right up and runs great.  these model atvs have drum brakes front and rear.  not a fan.  lost all brakes on this one when i hit some water and it got inside the rear drum case.  so i ordered new shoes for the rear end no biggie.  front is more complicated.  has hydraulic drum brakes not sure who thought that was a good idea but the pistons in the drums rusted and locked up from it sitting with moisture in the drums.
      so i had a choice to make- 1. buy new brake pistons ($120 for a set of 4) or 2. order super atv's disc brake conversion kit for $250.  i HATE drum brakes so i went with the conversion kit.  it said it was easy to install with no specialty tools.  so i order it and turns out i have to press the studs out of my hubs to get the disc on.
      anyone ever done this and if so how?
    • By Hunsaker Tim
      2004 700 twin peaks 
      When i get to about 10 mph i get a very (tinny ) noise from the right side of the engine / clutch area.
      originally I thought maybe something got caught between axle and skid plate ie : rock and was just rubbing producing that sound.
      I took off the skid plate and drove it and still had same sound.
      Checked the lug nots and they were a bit loose , tightened them and still same noise.
      Took off the what looks like an inspection plate on top of clutch cover and looked inside this apart and it is dry of any fluid.
      Not sure if there should be any fluid in there or not had clutch replaced 2 yrs ago with nominal riding since.
      I do not have the time or knowledge to take this apart and try and diagnose. The only repair areas around here are absolutely terrible.
      The shop I normally do the work are 2.5- 3 mos. behind. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
      Thank, you
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Create New...