Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV? Join our Forum!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

Chayse Hill

2003 LTZ 400 Not running right. Need Help!

Recommended Posts

I have a 2003 susuki ltz400. Its been acting funny since a couple days ago. Today i rode it around the block. When it was cold it was just fine. When i started going and was going for a minute or two it became alot harder to down shift into first, it would down shift but you would have to press it kinda hard. So i started heading home and the bike started to shutter. Like a hesitation in going like i would be holding the gas it would go then stop then go. Then i almost got home it got stuck in 2nd and wouldnt go up into any gear. Then i stop and get into first and pull it into my garage and then it stalls. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By richard fischer
      I have a new 2020 cforce 600 touring and read how smooth the shifting was on it. Mine however, sticks in gear quite often and only after moving the bike around does it finally shift. I use the brakes before shifting as it says but that doesn't seem to affect it either way. Anyone have this issue? Is there an adjustment on the linkage perhaps? Any suggestions are appreciated. The machine is new with about 10 miles on it.
    • By Venom
      Hi, All

      I started this project a while ago.. I have decided to make one thread I can continuously update..

      So , here we go. I got this Raptor 80 in really bad condition.. Rear end frozen, Engine toast, tires dry rotted, tons of rust..etc.. They admitted they beat on it very hard.

      Since they do not make these with a drive shaft anymore I decided to restore it from top to bottom..

      These are photos of when I got it home.

      Next up, the tear down..



      First, I needed to tear it down and determine if the rear end was still good... As we all know... That is where it would be cost prohibitive to restore if it is trashed..

      Got it completely stripped down and I lucked out... The rear Drum brake was caked solid inside with dried mud. That was causing the rear end to lock up. Took off the rear brakes and the rear end spun perfectly smooth.

      Once I got it all stripped apart I needed to take the finish off all the parts. I am going to be powder coating the frame and many parts.. Once the finish is off each part it will need to be sandblasted to white metal .. The guy I use for powder coating gives me a hefty discount if I bring the parts to him ready to go.

      You could just sand blast, but that would take a long time to get the finish off. First I used Aircraft Paint Remover.. That stuff is pretty toxic Goggles and Resperator are required. That quickly gets you down to the metal... Then you can sand blast to white metal pretty quickly...


      I had another thread I had started about a problem with the tear down... It has some great info .... here is the link... It is about removing the frame bushings. ....
       
      https://www.quadcrazy.com/atvforum/topic/14209-raptor-80-frame-bushings/?tab=comments#comment-104702
    • By wwdubose
      I have two 2003 Suzuki Ozark 250s, both 2-wheel drive.  Last time we rode them about a year ago, the red one was not running well, didn't want to idle, backfired a lot.  The green one ran fine. 
      Fast forward...I ordered a carb kit for both of them, thinking the red one has some trash in a jet.  Both of these ATVs have had little use and I've always ran the gas out after use (put an inline cutoff valve in gas line).  I pull started the red one to verify it was still running bad.  It will start and idle, but as soon as you give it any throttle, it dies instantly.  Give it a little choke, dies instantly.  Took the carb apart and it was spotless.  Went ahead and cleaned all the holes with carb cleaner and blew everything out with compressed air.  All new jets, main jet holder, and needles.  Put it back on and nothing changed.  Starts, idles (not for a long time), but dies as soon as you give it gas.  Same happens when you put the choke on.  It does the same thing when I try to run it turned to prime on the petcock as it does in the on position.
      Not an air filter issue.  It is clean and it does the same exact thing with no filter on it.
      Thought maybe there was a float issue or maybe a damaged diaphragm, so I took the carb off the green Ozark and put it on red.  Started up and initially ran normal and revved for about 10 seconds and then started doing the same exact thing.  Starts, idles (not for a long time), but dies as soon as you give it gas.  Same happens when you put the choke on. 
      So...not the carb
      Thought maybe vacuum petcock was bad, but there's no gas in the vacuum line going from petcock to carb and gas flows freely when on prime.  I even plugged the vacuum line at both the petcock and carb end and tried to run it with valve set to prime.  Gas flows freely, but does exactly the same thing.  I unscrewed the screw at the bottom of the bowl and gas flows thru carb and out bowl drain line when petcock is set to prime.
      So, I'm assuming petcock is good?
      Checked spark plug and it wasn't fouled.  Reset gap, didn't help.  Will swap plugs between Ozarks tomorrow but I don't think that is it.
      Anyway, that he history and now you're all caught up.  Scratching my head.  Valves? These were bought at same time and have had little use.  Suggestions?
      Thanks!   
    • By Ajmboy
      View File 2003-2004 Yamaha YZF450 Owners Service Manual
      2003-2004 Yamaha YZF450 Owners Service Manual 
      Submitter Ajmboy Submitted 06/02/2020 Category Yamaha ATV  
    • By Michael Rogers
      Anyone ever replaced the shifter shaft on one? Not sure on the year but assuming it is in the late 90's. Is it a huge task, splitting the case etc... thinking about buying it as my next project.
       
      Thanks
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...