1998 Bayou 300 4x4 Rear Shaft Boot/Seal

[Achilles]

Hi all, 

I purchased this quad from Craigslist somewhat against my better judgement due to the fact that the driveshaft boot was leaking oil.  I am assuming it is just the seal that needs replacement.  Does anyone know the part numbers for the seal and boot?  I am also trying to get a hold of a service manual for this so I am not going in blind!

Thanks for your help!

 

[ozzelmo]

Bayou 4x4 are great machine. Have u tried Manualslib.com for the manual? they maybe have it.

[Achilles]

I haven't tried that site yet but I definitely will.  Thanks for the tip!  So far I really like the quad.  Runs pretty well so far but needs some work--to be expected on a '98!

[Achilles]

I checked the site and they have the owner's manual but not the service/repair manual.  Do you have experience working on this machine?  I am wondering whether parts are pricey/readily available. 

[ozzelmo]

small experience. my father owns one but except for the brakes we haven't done anything on it

[Joseph Butter]

On 9/12/2018 at 3:06 PM, Achilles said:

Hi all, 

I purchased this quad from Craigslist somewhat against my better judgement due to the fact that the driveshaft boot was leaking oil.  I am assuming it is just the seal that needs replacement.  Does anyone know the part numbers for the seal and boot?  I am also trying to get a hold of a service manual for this so I am not going in blind!

Thanks for your help!

 

the seal that usually causes this is the crank seal symptoms besides the leaking thru the boot will be steam/smoke coming out of the pull rope housing when it warmed up good.

[Kevin Jackson]

I have same issue- do you have to remove the rear axle to get the drive shaft out?

[Achilles]

I just completed this job and I did remove the rear end to get to the seal but not much to it.  Just had to support the rear diff (used a jack) and the quad with a cinder block and a few wood blocks under the frame near the motor.   I did everything per the manual except I did not remove the brake panel as it was seized on the axle pretty good. I unhooked the brake cables and just unbolted the rear shocks and suspension arms to remove.  Then I unbolted the seal hosing/holder from the subtransmission (4 allen bolts) and replaced the seal.  i also replaced the o-ring on the prop shaft.  The job went fairly smoothly but not sure if it solved my problem yet since I still have the right rear wheel off to service the brakes.  The shoes are rusted onto the pivot pins and I have been trying to work them off with some PB blaster and a prybar since they are seized on pretty good.  Any tip on removing these btw?

[Frank Angerano]

Nice work on the rear. 👍 you can try to use a torch.  The type plumbers use to sweet pipe.  Put a cold water rag over the area of bearing to not burn anything up. Stay local on the area your heating. The expansion and contraction of the metal should free it up.  

Take your time ! Keep all areas that you want to keep cool covered with a cold wet rag! 

Good luck and let us know how you make out.  

🍀

Also take. A look at the rear bearings while your there since it would be a shame to do all this work and have a bearing go later. 

Maybe better to swap em out now ? 

 

[Achilles]

Thanks for the tip Frank--that's just what I did.  Used a propane torch on the pivots.  I wish I had thought of your wet rag idea but I didn't heat it long enough to heat the axle bearing I don't think, maybe less than a minute.  I then sprayed some more PB Blaster and gently worked the shoes back and forth (or up and down I should say!) with a short piece of 2x2 and a hammer.  I was eventually able to get them off.  The shoes have probably been seized a long time since they don't look too worn.  I will try to reuse them but definitely applying anti-seize before they go back on!  Now I just have to get the damn brake cam out and sand it down, apply some anti-seize etc. since it is stuck pretty good too.  It still turns with a pretty good whack on the cam lever but nowhere near easily enough for the cables to pull.  Do you know if I need to remove the cam lever by unbolting it or should the cam just pull out?  Thanks again!

[Kevin Jackson]

Thanks for the tip on the shaft removal- I’ve not had my brakes apart so I’m not sure what to tell you about the cam removal.

[Frank Angerano]

I’m not 100% sure on the cam lever but I’ve seen a small clip that held some of them in place. You can let it sit 24 hours on it with a good grease and it will work it’s way in and prob move freely after 24 hours. Grease is good bc it migrates into the surrounding metal and will get in pretty good.  Also take a piece of sand paper and hit the pads before you put them back in just to scuff them up a bit.   

Also be selective where you put the grease! The last thing you need is a blob of grease coming loose and getting on the brake shoes after a little riding  😬 

Did you happen to take any progress phots while you were doing any of this. I would love to see as well as a other QC members. 

Great work brother!!

 

[Achilles]

Good luck Andrew--let me know if you run into any difficulties as I may be able to guide you through it. 

 

Thanks Frank-- can't wait to get her running again.  I didn't get any shots of the seal placement and wondering why the heck I didn't think of it!  I will try to take some shots of where I disconnected the rear end from the frame, etc., as well as the brake job I am dealing with.  I will try the grease tonight as well.  Hopefully it will come out relatively easily.

[Jackie Daniels]

EBay has a great selection of atv services manuals 

 

[Jackie Daniels]

Aftermarket body parts