Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

While riding my Quadzilla XLC 500 I was cruising along about 60 mph then opened it up, but once I hit 70-75 mph it died on me so I rolled to a stop and it wouldn't start for about 20-30 seconds. I then noticed the Temp light occasionally flashes on but its so quick you wouldn't notice in the day so not sure how long its been happening. The engine has started pinging when I accelerate which can be caused by many things so I drained the fuel and replaced with hi octane, fitted a new spark plug, adjusted the little washer on the high jet in the carb twice to make it run more lean which made no difference.  I tested the thermostat which opens at the correct temperature, I removed the radiator cap and started the engine and no bubbles were showing and the oil is on maximum and very clean as I have not long serviced it.

The last time I took it out I went 14 miles and the coolant in the bottle has dropped about 1/2".

I am now leaning towards a head gasket and have purchased a full gasket kit but was wondering if there's anything else it could be before taking the engine apart.

Posted

Have you checked to see that the cooling fan is coming on ? And if so is the radiator clean ? Also look up and see if the engine shuts down on the hot side. When it’s at that point is it killing he engine. And btw dam that’s fast ! Slow down a bit brother! 

Posted
1 hour ago, Frank Angerano said:

Have you checked to see that the cooling fan is coming on ? And if so is the radiator clean ? Also look up and see if the engine shuts down on the hot side. When it’s at that point is it killing he engine. And btw dam that’s fast ! Slow down a bit brother! 

Yes the fan does come on but not every time and I have not had a close inspection of the radiator but it should be clean as I pressure washed it and have only used it on the road. I have no temperature gauge on my display so I can't see how hot its running.

Posted

Ok great.  What about the water pump it could be possible that there is no circulation? You can buy an infrared thermometer and shoot the head to see temperature under the same circumstances. 

There can only be a few things going on here 

1. Thermostat 

2. Water pump

3. Cooling fan/temperature sensor that brings fan on.

If you have a bad head gasket the oil will be discolored (greyish) in the crank case and a lot of white smoke.  

 

Posted

But I don't know what its suppose to run at and what is classed as too hot. The thermostat is fine as I tested it and it opened at 71 degrees which is stamped on it. If the coolant on the tank has dropped by 1/2" after 14 miles of riding it must be going somewhere which is leading me to think the head gasket but im hoping its not.

Posted

It’s not supposed to really go over 160 I would think on a good day. Have you checked the oil for color ? And also is there a leak you are not seeing ? And the water pump... you should see that coolant flowing with the cap off the radiator after it’s good and hot. If not I’m thinking the water pump. And the seal on the water pump as well and that’s why your loosing coolant. 

Posted

I've not checked the oil for colour, only looked at it on the dip stick. I will try and find time to check the water pump tomorrow as I do have a new water pump seal in my gasket set.

I just remembered, last time I warmed the engine up the pipe from the water pump to the bottom of the radiator was warm and I could hold it but the pipe from the top of the radiator to the engine was too hot to hold.

Posted

Yea brother I think it’s a pump issue. Never know but that’s where my guess is. The good thing about these problems are the limited things it can be when it comes to a water cooled system so get after it and narrow it down so we can get this figured out and get back to riding!!!  Let us know how you make out.  

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

OK today I removed the water pump cover, dained the engine of coolant and turned the engine over and the impeller is spinning ok. The gasket on the cover was knackered but I didn't want to replace just that gasket as I had not seen any leak from the cover which makes me think it must be leaking internally. I have managed to remove some of the internals but cant get any further.

What I expected to take a few hours looks like its going to take much longer.

Do I need to split the crank case to remove the rest?

20181203_142858.jpg

20181203_152601.jpg

Crank.png

Edited by Zilla28
Posted

Was the impeller spinning or just the shaft?  I’ve seen the same thing and when the bike was being cranked the owner was able to hold the impeller and the shaft spun not the impeller  so make sure that the shaft and impeller are not slipping   

That back end of that shaft looks chewed up. What goong on in there ?

Heve yiu checked the oil ? Any coolant in there ? 

That seal on the back of that impeller looks shot and could be leaking fluid into the crank case.   

Posted

As far as I am aware the impeller was spinning with the shaft as it was locked on to the shaft, not overly tight but tight enough.

I saw some videos online of people removing the pump seal and the only way they could remove it was to prise it out with a screw driver so that's what I done, hence the reason it looks a mess.

The oil does look a little watery and I done a test with dropping the oil in a hot saucepan to see if it bubbled which it did, so this confirms there is antifreeze in the oil 😞 

20181203_173143.jpg

20181203_174230.jpg

  • 1 month later...
Posted

OK, I have finally got somebody to change the head gasket on my quad and also needed to have the valves seated as one wasn't closing. All is now back together but when I took it for a test ride it's still pinging and the Temp light still flashes on.

I guess the engine will need to be taken out again and to split the crank to inspect the water pump? 

1.jpg

Posted

You should not need to take the engine out or split it to replace the water pump.  I would have done that while the head was off just to eliminate the possibility of it being bad.  But no way should you have to pull the engine or split it open.  

Posted

The water pump seal has also been replaced after me trying to remove it and making a mess of it. I am beginning to think it's something internal within the case that's making the impeller not function but im no mechanic so have no idea. Just very frustrating having only owned it for 5 months and its been off the road for a month.

Posted

Well the impeller was before (video posted above) but I didn't check the shaft.

I just removed the thermostat and took it for a 10 mile test ride, it's still pinging but I didn't notice the Temp light come on. I will have to check the shaft on the impeller tomorrow.

I notice the top pipe on the radiator gets very warm but the bottom pipe is hot. Surely it should be the other way around 🤔

Posted

If you took that bike for a 10 mile ride and the temp light didn’t come on and the bike didn’t over heat then it should be good.  I’ve seen instances where you have what’s called an “air bound” system.   It’s essentially a stuck airball in the system that takes a big push of water pressure to push it through the system.   Much like an air bound radiator in your  house on a hot water heating system.  Only difference is that home radiators have bleeders on them to get the air out.   It’s very posable that this happened.  So just keep an eye on it and you can look inside the radiator cap for fluid movement which will only happen after the thermostat  is open.  Take the cap off and start the bike and after about 10 min or so the water should start to flow.   Is the cooling fan coming on properly also ? 

  • Like 1
Posted

I let the bike idle from cold for 6 minutes to gently warm up, took it for a 10 mile ride and turned it off when I got back. After a few minutes I started it again letting it idle and the fan kicked in so I turned the quad off and let the fan do its job but it's the engine pinging which is worrying me as I can't afford to spend much more money on it if I end up knackering something else by riding it with a pinging engine.

Posted

I use to run Unleaded but when it started pinging a while ago I drained the tank and filled with Super Unleaded.

My mate done all the mechanical bits for me and yes the timing is spot on according to the service sheet from Quadzilla.

Posted

Ok I would recommend high test and maybe an octane booster if need be.  See if it goes away. One last thing I would check is the quality of your spark. Make sure it’s a strong blue spark and the gap is correct. And the pick up coil, ignition coil are in good shape.  The quality of the spark will tell you. 

Posted (edited)

Today I noticed the coolant in the radiator was filthy so I drained and flushed the radiator and checked the colour and spark on the plug which seems fine and also tested the water pump by touching the impeller when the engine was running and by removing the cap on the radiator I can see its pumping fine.

 

20190121_103913.thumb.jpg.d83fcb6896824d10044fa7167be549da.jpg20190121_104905.thumb.jpg.ec8d0ec11a95e4866ad4690c8f75afef.jpg20190121_135042.thumb.jpg.e4d0f6f37d44dddfde436dc1754a792e.jpg

 

I called Quadzilla and they said it must be a fueling issue.

As running lean can cause pre-ignition I adjusted the needle to run as rich as I could then took it for a 10 miles ride and still the engine is pinging. I added half bottle CVL turbo octane booster which is suppose to prevent pre-ignition but no luck.

 

20190121_134655.thumb.jpg.b5ef15cdf994a1b71d287d39cbf7bdd2.jpg20190121_165241.thumb.jpg.63c09c9e52cbeb044be03a6298183f0d.jpg

 

20190121_111543.jpg

Edited by Zilla28
Posted

Nice work. Try to raise the clip on the needle and see if the pinging changes. It’s going to take some testing and time but it will be dialed in.  Only thing I can go back to is the timing. I know you said it was all good just double check.  Can’t hurt.   

Posted
5 hours ago, Frank Angerano said:

By the way that plug should be a toasty brown.  Was that a new plug ?  Or newly installed ? 

is this what you mean by "toasty" - a dark/bold coffee bean color? (not the optimal one)


spark-plug-lean-rich-optimal.jpg

Posted

That was a new plug.

I then set the jet so it was running richer and put a new slightly cooler plug in which came out very brown.

20190121_134655.thumb.jpg.b938587183f1075d7db0ebfdc5793ed4.jpg20190123_140003.thumb.jpg.ff1b9a920199448ce96e56664e3e19a7.jpg

Now I have leaned the jet off a bit, took the carb off and tried to give it a wash with petrol and blow it out but couldn't really get to much. I took it for a ride and the Temp light flashed once and the engine pinging is still there. Not quite as bad but still noticeable 😕 

20190123_153414.thumb.jpg.f914fcbcf650149c34c425dff87635a4.jpg

Posted

Wow that’s a funky color plug.   So not to confuse the two, the temp light and the pinging are two separate issues and one should have nothing to do with the other.   

Having said that it seems like your slowly making improvements and getting it dialed in.  The only thing I can add at this point is to keep making small changes in the carb and get it as close as possible and keep track of the changes so you can go back should any new changes make things worse.  

As for the temp light thing it’s just a matter of coolant running through the system and creating dead/hot spots where the sensor is would be my guess. Especially since you said you took it out for a few 10 mile rides without over heating.   

I hope your keeping some tools and extra fluids like coolant out on these long rides. 

Posted

Yeah I usually always ride with a backpack with all the tools I need for removing screws and adjusting the chain 🙂

I have just been reading about the carb settings and I may have found the issue. I remember when I removed the pilot jet I wound it all the way back in as (I think) it was already like that. I will have to remove the carb again and set it to 2.5 turns out which is factory setting. Hopefully this will cure the pinging, although it use to run fine when I bought it and before I took it out 🤔

Only one way to find out.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By quadnut20
      23 friends 5 days great weather in Wyoming riding Sand Dunes & trails !!











    • By Rockbottom
      2008 400 big bear was running now will not start
      have power to relay, in neutral, press start have power to starter but nothing happens starter does not turn
      i have good ground at battery to frame and added ground from wire harness to frame beside batter/ frame ground
      blue white wire to cdi has power with key on
      I believe the neutral lock out is working since is was before i shut it down
      if i put  it in gear and hit the start button with key on the relay does not click or send power the starter
      The 3 wires at the relay have power with key on
      What should i test next?
      thanks ahead
    • By Mister907
      Hi guys, I have a 2004 big bear 400. Last winter while plowing the driveway, I heard a loud pop from the left side of the engine. It continued to run as I looked for leaky fluid, but then died shortly after backing it up and won’t start now. The oil light comes on when I try to start it, no noise or anything else. 
      No blown fuses that I can find.
    • By HHurks
      Yesterday I got a UForce 1000 as my first bike and I am wondering if there are any owners that could advise where I can find budget parts and accessories for it.
      I tried looking StarknightMT, but the filtering is a bit unreliable, so direct links or exact names are much appreciated.
      I'm mostly interested in sliders and side cases, but any advices for "must haves" are welcomed.
      Thank you!
    • By quadcrazy
      Mud riding is one of the most popular forms of ATV riding, but the wrong tires can leave you stuck fast in deep ruts and swampy trails. Choosing the best ATV tires for mud can dramatically improve traction, steering control, flotation, and overall off-road performance.
      Whether you ride trails, mud parks, swamps, or backwoods terrain, this guide covers some of the top ATV mud tires available today and what makes them stand out.
      What Makes a Good Mud ATV Tire?
      Mud tires are designed with aggressive tread patterns and deep lugs that help clean out thick mud while maintaining traction. The best mud tires usually feature:
      Deep tread lugs Wide spacing for self-cleaning Strong sidewalls Taller tire sizes for added clearance Durable construction for rough terrain 1. Maxxis Zilla

      The Maxxis Zilla is one of the most popular ATV mud tires because it balances mud performance with trail comfort. It is lightweight, aggressive, and performs well in a variety of terrain conditions.
      Why Riders Like It
      Excellent mud clean-out Lightweight design Smooth trail ride Available in many ATV sizes Best For: Trail riders who also spend time in mud.
      2. ITP Cryptid

      The ITP Cryptid is designed for serious mud riding with deep tread lugs and strong sidewall construction. It provides excellent traction in deep mud while remaining durable on rough trails.
      Features
      Deep aggressive tread 6-ply durability Strong side bite traction Great for lifted ATVs Best For: Deep mud and swamp riding.
      3. Outlaw 2 ATV Tires

      The Outlaw 2 has become a favorite among hardcore mud riders thanks to its massive lugs and impressive pulling power in thick mud.
      Pros
      Extreme mud traction Large tread design Excellent forward bite Popular in mud parks Cons
      Rougher ride on trails Heavier than trail-oriented tires Best For: Dedicated mud machines and mud bogs.
      4. STI Out & Back Max

      The STI Out & Back Max offers a solid balance between aggressive mud performance and everyday trail comfort.
      Highlights
      Durable sidewalls Great traction in loose terrain Smooth handling Long tread life Best For: Utility ATVs and hunting machines.
      5. SuperATV Assassinator

      The Assassinator is built for extreme mud riding and features huge paddle-style lugs capable of digging through the nastiest swamp conditions.
      Features
      Massive tread depths Extreme mud traction Available in oversized setups Designed for hardcore mud riders Best For: Extreme mud builds and dedicated swamp riders.
      Choosing the Right Mud Tire Size
      25-27 Inch Tires
      Great for stock ATVs Less drivetrain strain Better acceleration 28-30 Inch Tires
      Balanced performance More ground clearance Popular for trail mud riding 32+ Inch Tires
      Maximum mud performance Best for lifted ATVs Ideal for deep swamp riding Larger tires may require clutch upgrades, lift kits, or gear reductions depending on your ATV.
      Bias vs Radial Mud Tires
      Bias Ply Tires
      Stronger sidewalls Better puncture resistance Popular for aggressive mud riding Radial Tires
      Smoother ride quality Improved handling Better trail comfort Most serious mud riders prefer bias-ply tires because of their durability in harsh terrain.
      ATV Mud Tire Maintenance Tips
      Wash mud off after every ride Check tire pressure regularly Inspect sidewalls for damage Rotate tires periodically Avoid excessive pavement riding Lower tire pressure can improve mud traction, but beadlock wheels are recommended for very low PSI setups.
      Final Thoughts
      The best ATV tires for mud depend on your riding style and terrain conditions. Riders who split time between trails and mud often prefer versatile tires like the Maxxis Zilla, while hardcore mud riders typically choose aggressive options like the Outlaw 2 or Assassinator.
      Before upgrading to oversized mud tires, make sure your ATV can handle the added weight and drivetrain stress. Proper setup can dramatically improve your ATV’s performance in deep mud and swamp terrain.
      Visit QUADCRAZY ATV Forum for ATV tire reviews, mud riding discussions, builds, and technical advice from fellow riders.

      View full post
×
×
  • Create New...