Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV? Join our Forum!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

JacobSlabach

Honda Rubicon battery issues

Recommended Posts

Theres a horse farm I work/worked at and they have a Rubicon (500cc)  think its a 04.  Its been having starting issues.  First time it wouldnt start, the owner said it had a new battery in it (this is about a year ago I guess..).  I replaced the solenoid and then the starter.  the battery was dead so I jumped it and then it started fine after the battery charged.  about a month later, same problem.  I swapped the solenoid back out with the old one(still had it)- nothing.  the owner had another battery she said was good, swapped that out and it fired up.  Now, today, same problem again... owner says the starter was sluggish and then the battery went dead.  Went out and jumped it again and it ran fine (its a carburated atv so its not fond of under freezing temperatures...).  the stater is working cause when I got there, the battery had 7-9v on it (multimeter said it was rising and falling (with the key on)).  I jumped it off  our van and rode it around for say 5-10mins.  when I shut it off again, battery is reading 14v with key off and 13v with it on.  thats as far as I've gotten..  I asked the owner to let me know if anything else happened later on..  What I'm wondering is if its just the battery, or maybe is the regulator rectifier not working letting the battery be overcharged cause it to die?  And then again, the bike could have sat with the key and headlight on overnight for all I know..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There could be something that’s drawing off the battery with the key off.  Maybe a light of some sort or maybe a switch for something that was put on after.  Also a relay that could be stuck.  You can check this like you would do on a car.  Make sure the battery is charged and has 12 volts.  Disconnect the positive cable. Take a test light and attach the alagator clip on the test light and attach it to the positive cable and take the point of the test light and touch the positive terminal of the battery.  Make sure the key is off.  If the test light lights up there is a draw on the battery. I leave the test light on and start pulling fuses or plugs until the light shuts down.  That narrows your draw to the fuse that you pull that shuts the light off. 

Edited by Frank Angerano
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

everything is still stock on the bike... not even a winch or anything..  I think someone just left the key on with the headlight, because when I got there and turned it on, the headlight came on.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Your battery could also be weak. How long did you wait before checking the voltage? Usually wait about 1 to 2 hours and check the voltage again disconnected.  You can also check the battery for a weak cell with your volt meter. Do this carefully and safely. Remove the caps, negative meter lead to negative post. Take the positive lead and slowly put it in that cell. DON'T FORCE IT IN. You just want to get it in the acid. Check your readings. If all cells are about the same then the battery is ok, If you have one cell thats shows a real low voltage that's usually a bad cell.

A light coating of regular grease on the battery terminals helps prevent corrosion, makes using the screws a lot easier to remove too. old time trick

Battery's that sit for long periods of time develop a memory and won't fully charge. Get a good battery charger that desulfides the battery. Put it on for 24 hours and that will remove the battery's memory. I use one myself and once a year I put it on our battery's and leave it for 24 to 36 hours. I haven't had to buy a battery in quite a mumber of years, We have battery's all over in lawn and garden, atv, vehicles and gate opener's. 

 

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

so sorry I never concluded this thread!  Someone had left the lights on (probably one of the kids that runs it around the farm..)  but thanks to all who contributed!  I learned a thing or two from you.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By VikingTrad3r
      picked up my third timberwolf 250 for my daughters.  these are great light weight little quads.
       
      have a strange one for you.  the quad will NOT start in neutral.  it will start in first. 
      if i lift up on the gear selector just enough to hear the little click (its not loud, sounds like a contact clicking, perhaps the neutral safety switch?) the light will go out, but it won't yet be in first either.  that is how i have shown my daughter to start it and she can.
       
      id like to carry out whatever repair is needed.  i have the pdf of the shop manual but it doesn't really have a flow through diagram.
       
      any help appreciated!  thank you.
      i need to add something.  it feels like i can switch into another gear BELOW neutral.  
      so if i switch to neutral, i can keep pushing the gear selector, and it has another click below the neutral.  the light stays on, and when i pull up into first it kind of feels like it has two positions it moves through to arrive at first.
    • By redneck999
      i am sure some one has switched from the dinky battery to a larger car car battery, so any advice? ive got enough bits and bobs on my atv that i feel i need to step up, i keep a float charger on it but i left it unplugged for about a week and it was dead and it a fairly new battery from advance auto, im probably gonna add a cb radio in the future and i think the only thin that has a constant draw is the clock in the dash and the memory for the stereo
      2012 cf moto x5 500 lwb
    • By billyz57
      New to Quadcrazy, Has any Yamaha owners had similar issue?
      1987 Yamaha YFM 350 Starts on Pull, but just spins on starter, and won't start.
    • By bradleyheathhays
      '96 Cherokee here and right now I'm dealing with a no start after a few weeks of suspicious symptoms. She's been driven a lot less over the past year and about a month ago she began starting a little slow. I've got an oversized battery in there so usually she cranks right up no problem. I started monitoring batt voltage and saw around 12.04 V with engine off and 14.10 V or so running. Right before I get the new battery I head to Advance and they run a battery/alternator test. Kid tells me my batt is bad but alternator is still good.

      So I lay out the $ and install the same size 34N EverStart Maxx 800 cca from Wally's and the slow start persists. Measuring the new battery with engine off yields consistent readings of just under 12.7 V, so for the past few weeks I began charging the batt at 2A which seemed to help. A few days ago I venture out for an errand and the engine doesn't restart to get me back home. I get no clicks or cranking at all with a key turn. Batt measures 12.67 V at the terminals. Dash gauges seem to react with the key on, voltmeter reading ~11.5 V, although I'm not sure how accurate that is. Fuel pump pressurizes.

      Something that happened right after battery change out, which may or may not help in diagnosing the problem, is that my pass side headlight only illuminated half way while the driver side stayed full bright. I have an LMC Truck aftermarket headlight wiring harness giving 55/100w low high beam. It's the kind where you run the lights straight off the battery through additional relays. Had to tinker with the light harness a bit to get the new batt in and may have compromised a connection? Maybe a ground? Either way the pass headlight started showing full bright after only 1 or 2 occurrences and has been right ever since. With my alternator testing good and a new battery I wondered if maybe a loose connection was draining my voltage. I was in the middle of testing batt V connected vs. disconnected over time but this no start happened before I could get it done.

      Last thing to mention is that recently I've been removing both my fuel pump and starter relays for security reasons. The way it's acting now is exactly like when trying to start with both relays removed. Being that the fuel pump is pressurizing should I consider testing the starter relay? Other than that could I have caused some kind of part failure by removing and reinstalling the relays maybe around 5-6 times over the last month?

      All ears
    • By Belmontie
      Hi all, bike does start with the electric start mostly, but the battery was weak and wouldnt start it the other day so went to use the pull start, to say its hard is an understatement first of all you gotta do a little jiggling about til it catches then pulling it takes some effort now i know im not the strongest fella in the world but this is so much harder than it should be. 
      It does start of the pull just to get the engine to initailly turn is so hard any ideas why its happening or how to fix this,
      Thanks
        
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...