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I have a 99 250 Quadrunner. Currently has no spark. It would run for 5 minutes, then shut off. After it cooled down about 20-30 minutes, it would start again. I ordered a new stator and found the old one was damaged (copper windings broken) I installed the new stator, filled with oil and now it has no spark. Any assistance would be helpful
Looking for advice on what to try next I bought this quad and it’s has spark and fuel but won’t stay running only fires when I hold the starter button in even when spraying gas into the carb it still dies right away oil was milky white so I was thinking it maybe went under water 150 psi compression so I might be wrong but not a head gasket I am stuck Cause it should stay running with the straight gas through the carb so what should I try
By cameron walton
Hi Guys, I'm a newbie but pretty handy with a DMM (controls technician). I have been fighting a junker quad i picked up as a project bike, was assured it would run if I replaced the battery and cleaned the carb. I replaced the battery, rebuilt the carb with a OEM kit. FIxed all my switches and foul played circuitry from the last guy.... So I could get it to start long enough to test the quad, it seems okay from a trans/engine point. However I couldn't get the carb adjusted to idle to save my life with the idle air screw or the thumb screw on the card for the slide. I took it to a friend who is much more familiar with yamaha and quads and he double checked my carb rebuild all was fine, he adjusted the float to make the fuel not overfill which i missed.
He pulled the air intake, got it started and couldn't get it to idle with or without air filter. We started looking at the spark plug (new) and he tested it with a spark plug clamp meter, tested good, pulled it and grounded and it had spark but he felt it was weak. I order a working used oem coil to try the easy things first. When I ohm out the coil on the quad with my Fluke i'm seeing .4 ohms on primary (ground lug to male connector) and 18K ohms on secondary (inside boot to ground lug). Seems like this forum is full of bear trackers so I'm hoping someone has some ideas to help me figure where to go with this. His thought was he know I ave fuel and he knows I have air, spark would be next. I have spark but possibly weak. Thanks
By Ryan Hutton
Hey guys i am new to this site. i have a quadmaster 500 and last year my brother in law had it out and brought it back. When we went to put it away it wont move now any suggestions i have the belt cover off now. With it jacked up it seem to take gear when its not running.
By Brennon Heflin
So I bought a 2000 quad runner 250. I'm having some issues an wondering what it could be I replaced the pet cock valve an the fuel filter an pump inside tank I also put a voltage regulator on it. The problem I'm having is that when u give it half or more throttle it bogs down an loses power what could it be the bike is almost like new an cant figure it out any help would be great
By ronald webb
So where to start my son's LT80 stop running a couple months ago. Naturally I assumed I had a carburetor issues or the peacock valve. After replacing those two items and ensuring I had a spark I started doing my homework thus finding this page. After all the post I have read the next natural thing would be compression I did a compression test today and it was only 60 after spraying WD-40 in it so off comes the cylinder head and The Jug to my surprise the cylinder walls and all the gaskets are pristine so I am totally stumped no idea why I would not have compression when everything looks brand new even the Rings look great any help would be appreciated thanks in advance
picked up my third timberwolf 250 for my daughters. these are great light weight little quads.
have a strange one for you. the quad will NOT start in neutral. it will start in first.
if i lift up on the gear selector just enough to hear the little click (its not loud, sounds like a contact clicking, perhaps the neutral safety switch?) the light will go out, but it won't yet be in first either. that is how i have shown my daughter to start it and she can.
id like to carry out whatever repair is needed. i have the pdf of the shop manual but it doesn't really have a flow through diagram.
any help appreciated! thank you.
i need to add something. it feels like i can switch into another gear BELOW neutral.
so if i switch to neutral, i can keep pushing the gear selector, and it has another click below the neutral. the light stays on, and when i pull up into first it kind of feels like it has two positions it moves through to arrive at first.
OK, sooo I finally did the old skid plate and screen removal to clean out my oil sump during an oil change... This bike only has a couple thousand miles on it. Runs like a top still... Very few issues over the years after buying it used.
But boy I wasn't expecting to see this! Piece of a circlip, stuck up in the screen, and a another shard of metal and maybe a piece of gasket material. Nothing in the oil but that... Pristine otherwise, and still runs like a top. Always has.
Soooo, is it a wrist pin clip? That's the only thing I can think of like this that could end up in there. But definitely wanted to throw it out to guys that have seen the innerds of these more than I have.
The valves on this thing are still within the factory spec even. Been a really good lil workhorse...
Any other ideas?
New to Quadcrazy, Has any Yamaha owners had similar issue?
1987 Yamaha YFM 350 Starts on Pull, but just spins on starter, and won't start.
'96 Cherokee here and right now I'm dealing with a no start after a few weeks of suspicious symptoms. She's been driven a lot less over the past year and about a month ago she began starting a little slow. I've got an oversized battery in there so usually she cranks right up no problem. I started monitoring batt voltage and saw around 12.04 V with engine off and 14.10 V or so running. Right before I get the new battery I head to Advance and they run a battery/alternator test. Kid tells me my batt is bad but alternator is still good.
So I lay out the $ and install the same size 34N EverStart Maxx 800 cca from Wally's and the slow start persists. Measuring the new battery with engine off yields consistent readings of just under 12.7 V, so for the past few weeks I began charging the batt at 2A which seemed to help. A few days ago I venture out for an errand and the engine doesn't restart to get me back home. I get no clicks or cranking at all with a key turn. Batt measures 12.67 V at the terminals. Dash gauges seem to react with the key on, voltmeter reading ~11.5 V, although I'm not sure how accurate that is. Fuel pump pressurizes.
Something that happened right after battery change out, which may or may not help in diagnosing the problem, is that my pass side headlight only illuminated half way while the driver side stayed full bright. I have an LMC Truck aftermarket headlight wiring harness giving 55/100w low high beam. It's the kind where you run the lights straight off the battery through additional relays. Had to tinker with the light harness a bit to get the new batt in and may have compromised a connection? Maybe a ground? Either way the pass headlight started showing full bright after only 1 or 2 occurrences and has been right ever since. With my alternator testing good and a new battery I wondered if maybe a loose connection was draining my voltage. I was in the middle of testing batt V connected vs. disconnected over time but this no start happened before I could get it done.
Last thing to mention is that recently I've been removing both my fuel pump and starter relays for security reasons. The way it's acting now is exactly like when trying to start with both relays removed. Being that the fuel pump is pressurizing should I consider testing the starter relay? Other than that could I have caused some kind of part failure by removing and reinstalling the relays maybe around 5-6 times over the last month?
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