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By Brent Mason
I have worked about 4 weeks on my Griz600 and have burnt 2 CDIs up ! I added a wire harness and stator and It starts but runs erratically like spark timing is off ! So I would like to try another CDI but I don’t want to Pay an arm n leg ! Anybody have one ? Thanks
By Brent Mason
I have been trying to get my Griz600 running right for 3 weeks ! Grandsons used it and it quit running , no spark ! New stator etc and started but ran terrible ! Found a burnt capacitor on cdi . Installed used cdi and burnt it also but ran same as other cdi . Came to conclusion wire harness had short so stripped it and found some bad spots fixed and another cdi ran terrible again ! Bought another harness and same rough running ! Checked spark timing with light (put tdc mark on case and on pull start hub) and when it starts timing right on but will jump 25+° retard ! When timing is on tdc marks it has no power ! The stator is new but I am wondering if the pickup coil is triggering incorrectly ? Also had top end apart when I first started having trouble and although rings were good I installed new rings . Also new timing chain and check the valves , they were good also . It kind of seems to boil down to the last stator I installed new ? I have done trouble shooting on quite a few cars , trucks , dirt bikes and ATVs but this is frustrating me ! Just wondering if anyone has any ideas ? Carb was new last yr and I checked it ! I
By Brent Mason
IMG_4272.MOV Originally had my griz600 stop running and then wouldn’t start ! After testing all coils , valve lash , compression (115psi) and all tested ok I bought a used cdi . After cdi install it still wouldn’t start (no spark) ! So even though the stator , pulse/trigger and charge coils check within good range I decided to switch the stator etc ! It started but It is very unresponsive on throttle and acts like it is running in 2 Different spark timing ! With slight throttle it will take off good but instantly go into a very different running mode with no power like timing very retarded but it will switch back to running good for short period then bad again ! Since I replaced the stator and it started I then decided to install the cdi I replaced and it did the same thing ! Also I noticed the Used cdi I Took off had a capacitor that had swelled and extruded from the back of the cdi . I had always heard and I believed that when these CDIs go bad they machine will quit and will not run . Is that true ? I also checked the cam/valve timing and its ok ! Checked with timing light and it does fluctuate on idle ! I am thinking I have 2 bad CDIs . I also switched the trigger Coil wires and would not start then . Man , this thing ran good before and I am confused ! Video below may help !
By Sled Dog
Hello Team! Hopefully someone can help me. I've been to the Suzuki forum and its pretty dead. I should have been on this site a while ago as I own a Canam, Hondas and a RZR!
Anyways issue is the ATV won't start. Friend gave it to me to try get running. They installed a Amazon carb and machine did the same thing. This machine has 1100 miles and is not beat. Appears to have led a gentle life.
So the first thing I did was ask for the original carb. They do have and brought it over. But first I changed out all the old gas and put new in. Got it to start but would not idle. But could ride it around yard. Its a manual, went through all 5 gears. Runs like normal but would not idle.
So I got a Shindy rebuild kit and rebuilt the original carb. Reinstalled and almost the same thing. Starter spins and it tries to catch but doesn't until it does. Then it seems to run ok. Idles high but after a while it will go down.
So I take tank off and give a very good cleaning. Took off the fuel petcock. All looks good. No fuel in the vacuum line so I believe its working as it should. Cleaned carb again. Adjusted valves. Did not need. Reinstalled everything and same exact thing. Spins like a maniac for 10 or more seconds before it will start.
Spark plug is black. Brand new one too. I checked the spark and did not see any. Googled how to do it and I was doing it right, tried again, now I have spark. Hmmm. Kept checking and always had it.
My battle plan now is to clean the Amazon (Chy-na) carb and install that one. If it does the same exact thing I'll figure its not the carb. If it does something different this will tell me nothing as I don't trust the Amazon carbs!
But now I've read that these models Eigers have issues with the fly wheel magnets coming loose. And affecting spark. Anyone know if this sounds right? Maybe if the spark is out of time it makes it harder to start but once started the running engine can overcome that?
Oh yeah, compression is 130, spec is 142. Not sure I trust my Harbor frieght compression tester though. I'm bringing it to work to get the gauge calibrated.
Sorry so long winded but I like to give all the details I can for the people in the know! Anything anyone can suggest I do? Thanks for your time!
By ronald webb
So where to start my son's LT80 stop running a couple months ago. Naturally I assumed I had a carburetor issues or the peacock valve. After replacing those two items and ensuring I had a spark I started doing my homework thus finding this page. After all the post I have read the next natural thing would be compression I did a compression test today and it was only 60 after spraying WD-40 in it so off comes the cylinder head and The Jug to my surprise the cylinder walls and all the gaskets are pristine so I am totally stumped no idea why I would not have compression when everything looks brand new even the Rings look great any help would be appreciated thanks in advance
picked up my third timberwolf 250 for my daughters. these are great light weight little quads.
have a strange one for you. the quad will NOT start in neutral. it will start in first.
if i lift up on the gear selector just enough to hear the little click (its not loud, sounds like a contact clicking, perhaps the neutral safety switch?) the light will go out, but it won't yet be in first either. that is how i have shown my daughter to start it and she can.
id like to carry out whatever repair is needed. i have the pdf of the shop manual but it doesn't really have a flow through diagram.
any help appreciated! thank you.
i need to add something. it feels like i can switch into another gear BELOW neutral.
so if i switch to neutral, i can keep pushing the gear selector, and it has another click below the neutral. the light stays on, and when i pull up into first it kind of feels like it has two positions it moves through to arrive at first.
New to Quadcrazy, Has any Yamaha owners had similar issue?
1987 Yamaha YFM 350 Starts on Pull, but just spins on starter, and won't start.
'96 Cherokee here and right now I'm dealing with a no start after a few weeks of suspicious symptoms. She's been driven a lot less over the past year and about a month ago she began starting a little slow. I've got an oversized battery in there so usually she cranks right up no problem. I started monitoring batt voltage and saw around 12.04 V with engine off and 14.10 V or so running. Right before I get the new battery I head to Advance and they run a battery/alternator test. Kid tells me my batt is bad but alternator is still good.
So I lay out the $ and install the same size 34N EverStart Maxx 800 cca from Wally's and the slow start persists. Measuring the new battery with engine off yields consistent readings of just under 12.7 V, so for the past few weeks I began charging the batt at 2A which seemed to help. A few days ago I venture out for an errand and the engine doesn't restart to get me back home. I get no clicks or cranking at all with a key turn. Batt measures 12.67 V at the terminals. Dash gauges seem to react with the key on, voltmeter reading ~11.5 V, although I'm not sure how accurate that is. Fuel pump pressurizes.
Something that happened right after battery change out, which may or may not help in diagnosing the problem, is that my pass side headlight only illuminated half way while the driver side stayed full bright. I have an LMC Truck aftermarket headlight wiring harness giving 55/100w low high beam. It's the kind where you run the lights straight off the battery through additional relays. Had to tinker with the light harness a bit to get the new batt in and may have compromised a connection? Maybe a ground? Either way the pass headlight started showing full bright after only 1 or 2 occurrences and has been right ever since. With my alternator testing good and a new battery I wondered if maybe a loose connection was draining my voltage. I was in the middle of testing batt V connected vs. disconnected over time but this no start happened before I could get it done.
Last thing to mention is that recently I've been removing both my fuel pump and starter relays for security reasons. The way it's acting now is exactly like when trying to start with both relays removed. Being that the fuel pump is pressurizing should I consider testing the starter relay? Other than that could I have caused some kind of part failure by removing and reinstalling the relays maybe around 5-6 times over the last month?
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