Yamaha Warrior clutch/carb/exhaust issues

[Frank Angerano]

If the head has been removed previous times and the person or persons that have done it in the past have scraped the old gaskets away, shavings do fall into the crank case if the mechanic was not careful along with any gasket adhesive that was squeezed into the head when the head was tightened down.

[JacobSlabach]

ok.  The thing that worries me is it seemed as though the rear wheels locked up after I drained the oil but before I pulled the engine.  (in other words, the tranny seemed to have locked up while it was in neutral..)  not positive about it, but the cog would turn about a 16th of a turn and stop, then if I switched it from forward to reverse, it will turn some more and stop, then if I put it back in forward, it turns some more.  My concern with that is that maybe something is stuck/caught in the tranny...but I guess at this point there is nothing to lose..  can I use some used oil to flush the engine and then put some good oil in after?  

[Frank Angerano]

How I flush the motor.  

1. Buy a few quarts of oil.

2. Buy a paint strainer (pic attached). 

3. Fill the engine and swish around and pull the oil plug. 

4. Drain the oil through the strainer and re use. 

5. Repeat a few times. 

[JacobSlabach]

okay.  is it OK to use cheap engine oil or should I buy that Valvoline oil just for flushing it?

should I try using a honer on this cylinder as well?  (there is a rust ring from where the piston partially locked up)

[Frank Angerano]

Cheapest sh** you can find and a thin oil like a 20 weight.   

Keep in mind you can use kerosene as well for the initial few flushes and then the oil for the last few flushes. 

[JacobSlabach]

dont have kerosene on hand, would gas do ok or is that gonna encourage more rust?  I found out that the engines are the same between the big bear 350 and the warrior 350 (other than the drive train of course).  So I did get an extra pair of cylinder and head gaskets.  so should I get the top end back together before I flush the engine or after?  The piston rings look good (they still have the tapered edges) and the cylinder isn't scratched but I'm still going to hone it cause its got the rust ring from the rings in it.  Also, can I just use gasket material on the clutch cover since I've already removed that?  And anything I should do with the clutch before I put it back together?

[Frank Angerano]

Definitely flush the crank case out with cheap oil like we spoke about and open the clutch up and clean it good slap it back together with an adjustment.  Reassemble it and see what it does. What do you have to loose other then gaskets and time.  

[JacobSlabach]

haha ok.  Can I do the clutch work now since I already have it exposed?

and should I put the top end together before or after I flush the crank case?  

btw, I checked the rod for play and its tighter(like it should be- its not locked up or hard to turn or anything) than the rod on the big bear haha And the timing chain is a little rusted on a couple links, but none of them are locked up.

My only concern is that the drive sprocket still wont move even though the motor is in neutral

[Frank Angerano]

That’s a big concern to me.  You may need to split that engine if you can free it up.  Put a little pressure on spinning it in both directions to see if she moves as well as the gear shifter. 

Also does the crank turn freely as if the piston was stroking ? 

Don't  put the head on until after you flush the motor because  you can flip motor over to get the oil out and any big stuff will com out. Just use a big enough pan to turn the motor over so no big spillage happens.  

[JacobSlabach]

Yes the crankshaft spins freely right now and always did.  ok.  should I flush and then split the case or just split it now and see what kinda crap is going on in there?  Also I noticed that the sprocket will turn about 1/8 turn if I switch the directional lever (from reverse to drive and vise versa)

[Frank Angerano]

It may be something caught in between the gears jamming it  but that piece jamming and  it most likely is a broken gear tooth! 😢

 

If you can’t get it to spin then you might have to split it but be prepared with the gears and seals it’s not a simple task.   

[JacobSlabach]

found out the motor isnt locked up- shifter was slipping because the side cover was off and not holding the linkage in place.  The clutch hasnt changed, just seems like theres nothing there when you pull the handle.  I'm in AL and brought it with me to get my friend to weld the muffler back together (it broke somehow)  and it needs a battery.  So i cleaned the carb, and put the engine back together (honed the cylinder and put the piston and rings form that big bear (same engine) in it and jumped it, makes 70psi compression!  

so my main issue now it the clutch seems like theres nothing behind it.  not sure whats wrong.  the arm is good, the cable it good, the inside (actual clutch itself) didnt look to be jammed, worn, or stuck...not sure whats wrong with it.

[JacobSlabach]

got the warrior running today.  started right up, runs a little lean but to be expected with no air filter.  So surprised it runs so well for being all rusty inside from the water.  very loud with the db exhaust.  i started and ran it with no chain on because of the clutch.  so the clutch is doing nothing.  I have no clue what is going on with the clutch?  inside looked great, outside is working: cable, handle, lever...  why is there nothing behind it?

[Frank Angerano]

Hey @JacobSlabach welcome back how was the trip ? 

What do you mean behind it ? Is the cable connected and working and have you shifted the shifter so see if the gears are working ? 

[JacobSlabach]

all 5 gears work and shift while the bike is running.  nothing as in the clutch pulls to the handle without any resistance like its not connecting and pulling the clutch inside the engine

[Frank Angerano]

Have you moved the clutch arm at the engine and see if there’s any spring action? If you follow the cable down to the engine you will find it leads to a small armature. That is what brings the clutch in and out try to manually move it with your hand or a pair of channel locks.  It should move in one direction and release on its own.   If not then there’s a problem within the clutch or the armature that pulls the clutch in on the inside of the cover.

While the bike is not running try this.   You can raise the rear wheels off of the ground and put it in first gear.  Try to spin the wheels and you should get resistance from the engine. Then move that armature in and see if the rear wheels spin.  They should spin somewhat freely.    

[JacobSlabach]

the arm moves freely by hand both ways- not spring-loaded.  I'm thinking the linkage inside the clutch cover is not connecting or something

[Frank Angerano]

That’s correct.  It’s a shaft that goes down and inside the cover and pushed the clutch open.    Check the manual for the schematic. 

I have a feeling somethings missing in there.  

[JacobSlabach]

drained the oil and took the side cover off today.  this is what the inside looked like.  i think i have the black bolts on the clutch adjusted wrong...?  The linkage from the outside to the inside looks good.  i had those black bolts all the way in.. dont know where they are supposed to ba and didnt want them to rattle loose

[Frank Angerano]

When you move the clutch actuator anything  happen ? 

[JacobSlabach]

whats the clutch actuator again?  I found part of the issue was that the linkage inside the clutch cover was not adjusted to the right gear tooth, but now it feels as if the clutch is locked up.

[JacobSlabach]

figured out the issue- just the incorrect tooth on the linkage.  Jumped the bike and took it for a ride (strained the oil, cleaned the oil filter, and put it back in).  the clutch seems jumpy like it engages all the way at about 3/4 way out.  And it doesnt like shifting into neutral when running and when its off, neutral is between 1st and 2nd gear...??? gonna order a new battery for it as every time i stall, it has to be jumped..no pull start.  also, i was thinking of getting a aftermarket air filter that attaches directly to the carb so i didnt need an air box.  is this a bad idea?  the old airbox melted on the exhaust.

but i'm still impressed as to how good this thing runs after having water in it.  has tons of power and endless rpm..  i haven't needed to use but about half throttle on it so far.

[Frank Angerano]

Sounds good. Nice work.  If the clutch is grabbing 3/4 way out the clutch needs replacement plates and springs.  Not a big deal.  Yes is one down four up or five up whatever it is. When you want to go to neutral you go all the way down and a half click up, that’s neutral. 

You can def replace the air filter IF there is no breathers going to the existing air box.  I used one on my old Polaris 90.  It worked fine. Looked great too. But only if there is no breather connected. 

[JacobSlabach]

ok.  are replacement clutches expensive?  Thats weird that neutral is where it is- any reason for this?  The bike has one breather, but is doesnt attach to the air box, it just sticks up under the plastics..  (maybe this is how the water got into the engine?)

[Frank Angerano]

All bikes that I’ve ever known  even street bikes, Harley’s etc are like that.  

Look on amazon and you will see the air breathers. They look great.  You may have to adjust the air fuel screw a bit but that’s about it.    

 

[JacobSlabach]

wait what are you talking about the air breathers?  I thought you were talking about the vent hoses coming into the airbox..

[Frank Angerano]

My answer was you can add a stand alone breather to the back of the carburetor only if you don’t have an existing oil breather line going to the old air box. If that’s the case then you need to keep the existing type air box.   

I did this on my Polaris 90 and it worked.  I had to adjust the air fuel screw a little.   

This is the type I put on from amazon. 

45mm Universal fit"Turbine" Air Filter - Motorcycle Scooter Pocket Bike ATVs - Blue (Model 10410-02) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DWGRL14/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6YseDbM4GBSQ3

[JacobSlabach]

ohhh  ok thats what i thought.  so i think there IS a breather, but it didnt hook up to the old airbox nor was there a place for it to hook up.  it just stuck up and dead-ended under the gas tank..  i tucked it under the carb so it wouldnt collect rain (i believe this was how water got into the engine from sitting out for years).  anyway i bought a 45mm high flow filter for 20 and it looks beautiful!  sputtered at top end so i adjusted it richer like you said and now it runs great.  I was having issues with the clutch engaging to hard and stalling me but it softened up and is easy to drive now.

so i put it up on CL today for $1700.  prolly have to drop the price but who knows....  almost want to keep it- its soo fun to rip around..  even just around my shed i was raising clouds of dust and making berms..

[JacobSlabach]

oh and i took those ugly lights off and put on the lightbar that i used to have on my bayou on this bike:

lol those are gopro pics- and its date is off.. i took those this afternoon

Edited June 29, 2019 by JacobSlabach
grammer

[Frank Angerano]

Looks great kid. Nice work. Keep it up.