Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV? Join our Forum!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

JacobSlabach

Yamaha Warrior clutch/carb/exhaust issues

Recommended Posts

got 7 atvs off CL recently for a good price.  one of which is a yamaha warrior.  anyone know where the vin is printed on this bike?  Haha good place to start as I do not know year or size yet.  The former owner says needs exhaust ans and clutch work.  he said it ran fine until the clutch cable broke and then I couldn't get the new cable adjusted right and it would grind gears.  things I see:  clutch cable locked up again, no brakes, carb leaking (green with algae around the bowl and has gelled gas stalagtights on it), aftermarket exhaust melted the airbox so I need something different and a new air box.  I would like the use the current exhaust if I can but I have a feeling its a redneck fix as it looks like there is an ace bandage holding it to the exhaust pipe (its an aftermarket slip-on exhaust), so I'm not sure about that- lets get the bike running first.  also, battery (looks brand new, what a shame) is dead, 0 volts.  Otherwise, bike looks to have not been wrecked, and plastics are ok (it sat outside under a 'tarp' for 3+ years since it was run last).  any tips and advise on where to start first would be awesome as this is my first clutched bike (manual).

the clutch is my main concern- I've never rode a clutched bike so I dont even know what its supposed to feel like.  lol I'm spoiled on my automatic polaris excited on my block GIF by NETFLIX

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


so I'm hoping if luck is on my side (it never is and i dont believe in it lol), basic tear-down (plastics off) and a good clean, a carb clean, freed up clutch cable, new battery, new airbox, new exhaust, (maybe) some new tires cause the old ones are worn down, and some other odds and ins and this bike will be running like a champ...  If i divide what I paid for the bunch, I think I gave around $300 for this bike.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It’s prob a 350.   Post some pics of you can. The vin on the Yamahas like mentioned in one of our other posts is on the lower left front frame rail.  As long as the carb is in good shape then only  a rebuild kit may be  needed.  As far as the clutch cable we’ll they are cheap enough.  But you can take it off and hang it up so it’s stright and spray it with WD 40 inside and let gravity do it’s job.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


VIN is:  JY43GDO331AO1OO11.  says its invalid- I double chacked the vin on the bike- cant tell if they are 0s or Os

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

heres some more pics of the melted air box and exhaust.  (the airbox has a hole in it right by the screwhole.  you can see what looks like an ace bandage holding the tailpipe on lol 

Picture0408191459953.jpg

Picture0408191459952.jpg

Picture0408191459951.jpg

so thats the exhaust it has on it- couldnt remember it was a DG or something lol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

so the engine was partially locked up so I'm pulling it to clean it and the rest of the bike and so I can get to it easier.  It turned but I could hear it grinding (I was turning it by hand) so I loaded the cylinder up with WD-40 and kept working it loose- now its turning over easily but I should prolly still pull the head and check stuff out right?  The clutch cable was not seized, but the clutch is hard to pull.  I was going to look at that while I had the engine off.  The carb looks like its in bad shape- hopefully I can get that cleaned..  It had a twist throttle on it, but also had the oem thumb throttle in the box so I put that back on.  I'm wondering what I should tackle first and If I should dig into the cylinder or see if it will run first?  Heres some picks:  Also, Worst come to worst, I could get this- just worried about putting too much into this bike and not getting much out of it.  low retail for these bikes is $700 near me.

Heres the stock throttle

Picture0408191815951.jpg

Heres the twist throttle that was on the bike

Picture0408191815952.jpg

Picture0408191815953.jpg

Heres the side on the engine that I hand tunred the flywheel from.  Not sure if theres supposed to be a cover or pull cord...

Picture0408191815954.jpg

Picture0408191823951.jpg

Heres the melted airbox.  new one is around $20

Picture0408191823952.jpg

my shop isnt as depressing as it looks lol

Edited by JacobSlabach

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That’s a dirt bike throttle on the atv lol get rid of it.  It’s dangerous!  The cylinder... pull it.  Never know what’s going on in there. See if it’s even worth putting money into it.  Worst case you part it out if it’s shot.   The clutch is prob tight from sitting and full of junk.   Best to pull the cover and clean it out and see how everything looks. 

I would order a full gasket kit once you see if its worth going  forward.  

The exhaust looks fine  that cloth wrap is a high heat tape that’s commonly used on motorcycle, atv and dirt bikes. The DG pipe is a good brand  pipe. Take it off wire brush and paint with high heat flat black paint. 

If the engine is shot the bike parts are worth money. Head assembly, plastics etc but yiu need to clean them up and sell on CL worst case.   

But see how it goes first. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The guy said it ran 3 years ago- I'm thinking just a kit like this  https://www.ebay.com/i/254125926644?chn=ps for $100 and get it running but if you dont think it's worth it than yea I could part it out.  I'm thinking it just built up moisture from sitting outside or maybe it was flooded when he parked it...  but yea I'll take pics once I got it apart.  It also needs a manifold boot as the other one had a crack in it and then came apart lol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

kbb says the bike's retail is $1900 and trade in is 1200... lol dont know which it would actually sell for...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Honestly I would not spend any money until it’s apart and you know the cylinder/engine are good.  If it’s just a rust lip in the cylinder that needs to be cleaned and honed then it’s a score and a gasket kit only.  If it’s a strong motor then it’s worth fixing and selling.  Cosmetic work is easy. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

pulled the plug to drain the oil before pulling the engine and a bunch of water gushed out with it.  Also the plug was full of crap- see pic:

Picture0410191528951.jpg

is it worth still considering fixing to sell it or just part it out now?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

its pieces of rust flakes.  just pulled the cylinder off the engine and looked down in the crank case and there is rust everywhere (pieces laying on the bottom of the crank case and all internal parts that are steel are rusted.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

should I take the bike apart and sell the parts or sell it together for parts?  Assuming its not worth trying to fix.  Maybe another engine?  I also noticed there is way too much play in the rear axle- bearings are shot.  They roll, but are too lose.

looks like around 7-800 for a new motor

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By VikingTrad3r
      picked up my third timberwolf 250 for my daughters.  these are great light weight little quads.
       
      have a strange one for you.  the quad will NOT start in neutral.  it will start in first. 
      if i lift up on the gear selector just enough to hear the little click (its not loud, sounds like a contact clicking, perhaps the neutral safety switch?) the light will go out, but it won't yet be in first either.  that is how i have shown my daughter to start it and she can.
       
      id like to carry out whatever repair is needed.  i have the pdf of the shop manual but it doesn't really have a flow through diagram.
       
      any help appreciated!  thank you.
      i need to add something.  it feels like i can switch into another gear BELOW neutral.  
      so if i switch to neutral, i can keep pushing the gear selector, and it has another click below the neutral.  the light stays on, and when i pull up into first it kind of feels like it has two positions it moves through to arrive at first.
    • By JJ78
      I have a yamaha big bear 400, tested all fuses and relays. When I turn on key I get nothing, no neutral light or headlights. Could it be the key switch bad?
       
    • By Asen_77
      Hi All,
      My name is Asen and I am from Eastern Europe, Bulgaria. Riding a Yamaha Raptor 700R and this is my first Quad wanted for a vey long time :)

       
    • By billyz57
      New to Quadcrazy, Has any Yamaha owners had similar issue?
      1987 Yamaha YFM 350 Starts on Pull, but just spins on starter, and won't start.
    • By bradleyheathhays
      '96 Cherokee here and right now I'm dealing with a no start after a few weeks of suspicious symptoms. She's been driven a lot less over the past year and about a month ago she began starting a little slow. I've got an oversized battery in there so usually she cranks right up no problem. I started monitoring batt voltage and saw around 12.04 V with engine off and 14.10 V or so running. Right before I get the new battery I head to Advance and they run a battery/alternator test. Kid tells me my batt is bad but alternator is still good.

      So I lay out the $ and install the same size 34N EverStart Maxx 800 cca from Wally's and the slow start persists. Measuring the new battery with engine off yields consistent readings of just under 12.7 V, so for the past few weeks I began charging the batt at 2A which seemed to help. A few days ago I venture out for an errand and the engine doesn't restart to get me back home. I get no clicks or cranking at all with a key turn. Batt measures 12.67 V at the terminals. Dash gauges seem to react with the key on, voltmeter reading ~11.5 V, although I'm not sure how accurate that is. Fuel pump pressurizes.

      Something that happened right after battery change out, which may or may not help in diagnosing the problem, is that my pass side headlight only illuminated half way while the driver side stayed full bright. I have an LMC Truck aftermarket headlight wiring harness giving 55/100w low high beam. It's the kind where you run the lights straight off the battery through additional relays. Had to tinker with the light harness a bit to get the new batt in and may have compromised a connection? Maybe a ground? Either way the pass headlight started showing full bright after only 1 or 2 occurrences and has been right ever since. With my alternator testing good and a new battery I wondered if maybe a loose connection was draining my voltage. I was in the middle of testing batt V connected vs. disconnected over time but this no start happened before I could get it done.

      Last thing to mention is that recently I've been removing both my fuel pump and starter relays for security reasons. The way it's acting now is exactly like when trying to start with both relays removed. Being that the fuel pump is pressurizing should I consider testing the starter relay? Other than that could I have caused some kind of part failure by removing and reinstalling the relays maybe around 5-6 times over the last month?

      All ears
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...