Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV? Join our Forum!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

JacobSlabach

Yamaha Warrior clutch/carb/exhaust issues

Recommended Posts

it’s a possibility to find another bike for a fair price even if you have to wait for one to come along.  $1500 is too high I think.   But I would def play around with this one in the mean time. Learn a few things about the motor and how it works etc.   As far as plastics and the rest of the parts on the bike of in good shape can be worth a good piece of change. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


yea I'm thinking it's gonna be best to take the rest of the bike apart and clean it up and sell piece by piece on ebay or CL..  Does anyone know if there is a parts diagram for this bike?  I'm wondering if the parts might sell faster if listed with part number.  But yea I was thinking about taking the crankcase apart and giving my brain a visual on how all the crap in there works...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That’s a good idea on taking the engine apart but keep the mindset that your taking apart to put back together.  This way your not careless with parts at damaging the engine.  As far as listing part numbers I guess you can buy the year make and model should suffice when selling.   

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

okay- will do.  Which side of the crank case should I pull when it's split?  And I'm gonna post pics of the unrusted or aluminum engine parts once apart- maybe I can sell some of those as well...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

update with some pics of engine guts:

Picture0411191630952.jpg

Picture0411191630953.jpg

Picture0411191630954.jpg

Picture0411191630951.jpg

sorry- those pics are as good as it gets in the flip phone life.......skateboarding animal GIF

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


main crank had side to side play- I think thats supposed to be like that.  dunno for sure till I crack the crank case and pull everything apart  what side of the crank case should I be pulling?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I wouldn’t be so quick to do that. Side to side is ok.  

If that bearing is tight and no play up and down just flush it out with some oil and put it back together.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


If the head has been removed previous times and the person or persons that have done it in the past have scraped the old gaskets away, shavings do fall into the crank case if the mechanic was not careful along with any gasket adhesive that was squeezed into the head when the head was tightened down.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ok.  The thing that worries me is it seemed as though the rear wheels locked up after I drained the oil but before I pulled the engine.  (in other words, the tranny seemed to have locked up while it was in neutral..)  not positive about it, but the cog would turn about a 16th of a turn and stop, then if I switched it from forward to reverse, it will turn some more and stop, then if I put it back in forward, it turns some more.  My concern with that is that maybe something is stuck/caught in the tranny...but I guess at this point there is nothing to lose..  can I use some used oil to flush the engine and then put some good oil in after?  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How I flush the motor.  

1. Buy a few quarts of oil.

2. Buy a paint strainer (pic attached). 

3. Fill the engine and swish around and pull the oil plug. 

4. Drain the oil through the strainer and re use. 

5. Repeat a few times. 

53B75416-A919-433B-9F8C-0D454F58CCCD.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

okay.  is it OK to use cheap engine oil or should I buy that Valvoline oil just for flushing it?

should I try using a honer on this cylinder as well?  (there is a rust ring from where the piston partially locked up)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cheapest shit you can find and a thin oil like a 20 weight.   

Keep in mind you can use kerosene as well for the initial few flushes and then the oil for the last few flushes. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


dont have kerosene on hand, would gas do ok or is that gonna encourage more rust?  I found out that the engines are the same between the big bear 350 and the warrior 350 (other than the drive train of course).  So I did get an extra pair of cylinder and head gaskets.  so should I get the top end back together before I flush the engine or after?  The piston rings look good (they still have the tapered edges) and the cylinder isn't scratched but I'm still going to hone it cause its got the rust ring from the rings in it.  Also, can I just use gasket material on the clutch cover since I've already removed that?  And anything I should do with the clutch before I put it back together?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Definitely flush the crank case out with cheap oil like we spoke about and open the clutch up and clean it good slap it back together with an adjustment.  Reassemble it and see what it does. What do you have to loose other then gaskets and time.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

haha ok.  Can I do the clutch work now since I already have it exposed?

and should I put the top end together before or after I flush the crank case?  

btw, I checked the rod for play and its tighter(like it should be- its not locked up or hard to turn or anything) than the rod on the big bear haha And the timing chain is a little rusted on a couple links, but none of them are locked up.

My only concern is that the drive sprocket still wont move even though the motor is in neutral

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That’s a big concern to me.  You may need to split that engine if you can free it up.  Put a little pressure on spinning it in both directions to see if she moves as well as the gear shifter. 

Also does the crank turn freely as if the piston was stroking ? 

Don't  put the head on until after you flush the motor because  you can flip motor over to get the oil out and any big stuff will com out. Just use a big enough pan to turn the motor over so no big spillage happens.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes the crankshaft spins freely right now and always did.  ok.  should I flush and then split the case or just split it now and see what kinda crap is going on in there?  Also I noticed that the sprocket will turn about 1/8 turn if I switch the directional lever (from reverse to drive and vise versa)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Ajmboy
      Got my Yamaha Grizzly buttoned up finally and went for a quick 2 hour ride in the power lines with my neighbor, who has a Yamaha Kodiak. We have access from his yard, which is nice. Was a beautiful day today to get out and will try to go more often. Ran into two other quad riders with a sportsman and I think grizzly. Also ran into a dirt bike rider. 😎




       
    • By 06kfx440
      It’s been a pleasure serving all of you. I can not ride anymore. My illness has turned to the worst and I can barely walk anymore. I will still be here helping where I can. I might just get an oddsey and work the sh!t out of it. But I’m done. I didn’t want to be in this situation. But I have to take it. It’s been so much fun here guys!
       
       
      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    • By Asen_77
      Hi All,
      My name is Asen and I am from Eastern Europe, Bulgaria. Riding a Yamaha Raptor 700R and this is my first Quad wanted for a vey long time :)

       
    • By John Victor
      My father-in-law gave my boy a 1999 350 Big Bear. It's been sitting in a barn for a bunch of years. It runs great! My boy has been riding a couple weeks now and it has developed a squeal coming from the front end when you get off the gas at speed. No noise during acceleration. At first I thought brakes. I took it for a ride and I don't think it is the brakes. I feel it is the front prop shaft U-joints, front differential or one/both axles. I pulled the fill plug on the differential and I can't find anywhere how much gear oil should be in there. My gut says up to the fill opening. It doesn't have a manual. It's wet in there, just don't see any gear oil.

      #1 Should I fill the differential with gear oil up to the fill opening?

      #2 How do I check or know if the u-joints are bad? That looks like a "Big Bear" of a job if they don't need to be replaced.

      #3 What else could it be? I don't think it is the front bearings. I jacked the front wheels off ground and no play in the right wheel. Very little play in the left wheel, looks like the lower control bushing is where that play is coming from. The rubber CV boots look original but all still intact. Wheels spin easily without any noise.

      Thanks for any help!
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...