Do you own an ATV? Join our Forum!
As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery. Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.
Similar Tagged Content
I have two 2003 Suzuki Ozark 250s, both 2-wheel drive. Last time we rode them about a year ago, the red one was not running well, didn't want to idle, backfired a lot. The green one ran fine.
Fast forward...I ordered a carb kit for both of them, thinking the red one has some trash in a jet. Both of these ATVs have had little use and I've always ran the gas out after use (put an inline cutoff valve in gas line). I pull started the red one to verify it was still running bad. It will start and idle, but as soon as you give it any throttle, it dies instantly. Give it a little choke, dies instantly. Took the carb apart and it was spotless. Went ahead and cleaned all the holes with carb cleaner and blew everything out with compressed air. All new jets, main jet holder, and needles. Put it back on and nothing changed. Starts, idles (not for a long time), but dies as soon as you give it gas. Same happens when you put the choke on. It does the same thing when I try to run it turned to prime on the petcock as it does in the on position.
Not an air filter issue. It is clean and it does the same exact thing with no filter on it.
Thought maybe there was a float issue or maybe a damaged diaphragm, so I took the carb off the green Ozark and put it on red. Started up and initially ran normal and revved for about 10 seconds and then started doing the same exact thing. Starts, idles (not for a long time), but dies as soon as you give it gas. Same happens when you put the choke on.
So...not the carb
Thought maybe vacuum petcock was bad, but there's no gas in the vacuum line going from petcock to carb and gas flows freely when on prime. I even plugged the vacuum line at both the petcock and carb end and tried to run it with valve set to prime. Gas flows freely, but does exactly the same thing. I unscrewed the screw at the bottom of the bowl and gas flows thru carb and out bowl drain line when petcock is set to prime.
So, I'm assuming petcock is good?
Checked spark plug and it wasn't fouled. Reset gap, didn't help. Will swap plugs between Ozarks tomorrow but I don't think that is it.
Anyway, that he history and now you're all caught up. Scratching my head. Valves? These were bought at same time and have had little use. Suggestions?
picked up my third timberwolf 250 for my daughters. these are great light weight little quads.
have a strange one for you. the quad will NOT start in neutral. it will start in first.
if i lift up on the gear selector just enough to hear the little click (its not loud, sounds like a contact clicking, perhaps the neutral safety switch?) the light will go out, but it won't yet be in first either. that is how i have shown my daughter to start it and she can.
id like to carry out whatever repair is needed. i have the pdf of the shop manual but it doesn't really have a flow through diagram.
any help appreciated! thank you.
i need to add something. it feels like i can switch into another gear BELOW neutral.
so if i switch to neutral, i can keep pushing the gear selector, and it has another click below the neutral. the light stays on, and when i pull up into first it kind of feels like it has two positions it moves through to arrive at first.
OK, sooo I finally did the old skid plate and screen removal to clean out my oil sump during an oil change... This bike only has a couple thousand miles on it. Runs like a top still... Very few issues over the years after buying it used.
But boy I wasn't expecting to see this! Piece of a circlip, stuck up in the screen, and a another shard of metal and maybe a piece of gasket material. Nothing in the oil but that... Pristine otherwise, and still runs like a top. Always has.
Soooo, is it a wrist pin clip? That's the only thing I can think of like this that could end up in there. But definitely wanted to throw it out to guys that have seen the innerds of these more than I have.
The valves on this thing are still within the factory spec even. Been a really good lil workhorse...
Any other ideas?
i am sure some one has switched from the dinky battery to a larger car car battery, so any advice? ive got enough bits and bobs on my atv that i feel i need to step up, i keep a float charger on it but i left it unplugged for about a week and it was dead and it a fairly new battery from advance auto, im probably gonna add a cb radio in the future and i think the only thin that has a constant draw is the clock in the dash and the memory for the stereo
2012 cf moto x5 500 lwb
New to Quadcrazy, Has any Yamaha owners had similar issue?
1987 Yamaha YFM 350 Starts on Pull, but just spins on starter, and won't start.
'96 Cherokee here and right now I'm dealing with a no start after a few weeks of suspicious symptoms. She's been driven a lot less over the past year and about a month ago she began starting a little slow. I've got an oversized battery in there so usually she cranks right up no problem. I started monitoring batt voltage and saw around 12.04 V with engine off and 14.10 V or so running. Right before I get the new battery I head to Advance and they run a battery/alternator test. Kid tells me my batt is bad but alternator is still good.
So I lay out the $ and install the same size 34N EverStart Maxx 800 cca from Wally's and the slow start persists. Measuring the new battery with engine off yields consistent readings of just under 12.7 V, so for the past few weeks I began charging the batt at 2A which seemed to help. A few days ago I venture out for an errand and the engine doesn't restart to get me back home. I get no clicks or cranking at all with a key turn. Batt measures 12.67 V at the terminals. Dash gauges seem to react with the key on, voltmeter reading ~11.5 V, although I'm not sure how accurate that is. Fuel pump pressurizes.
Something that happened right after battery change out, which may or may not help in diagnosing the problem, is that my pass side headlight only illuminated half way while the driver side stayed full bright. I have an LMC Truck aftermarket headlight wiring harness giving 55/100w low high beam. It's the kind where you run the lights straight off the battery through additional relays. Had to tinker with the light harness a bit to get the new batt in and may have compromised a connection? Maybe a ground? Either way the pass headlight started showing full bright after only 1 or 2 occurrences and has been right ever since. With my alternator testing good and a new battery I wondered if maybe a loose connection was draining my voltage. I was in the middle of testing batt V connected vs. disconnected over time but this no start happened before I could get it done.
Last thing to mention is that recently I've been removing both my fuel pump and starter relays for security reasons. The way it's acting now is exactly like when trying to start with both relays removed. Being that the fuel pump is pressurizing should I consider testing the starter relay? Other than that could I have caused some kind of part failure by removing and reinstalling the relays maybe around 5-6 times over the last month?
Recently Browsing 0 members
No registered users viewing this page.