Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV? Join our Forum!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

Tru-hue nc

2007 Ozark 250 rattle, hesitation and battery

Recommended Posts

Hi! 1st post and this is my 1st shaft driven atv, plus it's been several years since I've rode anything 4stoke. Got this quad for a reasonable price and it does run. That being said it doesn't have a battery so I just pull start it really easy... 

Question 1: is a battery required for the atv to run property? (Under heavy throttle it kinda misses and u can feel the hesitation) 

Question 2: it has a rattle from the engine but not sure if it's normal for these or not. The the lower end might be the source of the sound but with it at idle it's hard to tell. In my head all 4stokes sound off so Idk...

Question 3: the semiauto shift is a new thing to me and how the heck do I know what gear I'm in? Lol it seems to always be in a low gear regardless of the up shift. Maybe does 40mph on road but with the previous hesitation mentioned above its about all I can get out of it... 

Additional info: new plug, fresh gas and oil change. No battery connected at all. Neutral light will flicker at idle but reverse never lights. Seems to make a Lil clicking from the rear end at higher speeds. 

Worst fears: had a rod bearing worn out, valves need adjustment and timing tensioner is off, rear end is about to grenade?!? 

I basically know nothing about it and need help to see if it's worth fixing and how much expense I'm looking at... thanks

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Welcome to Quadcrazy!  

Congrats on the bike. 

1. You definitely need a battery. Although the bike can self support its own spark and run, the battery by design is to support the additional  features (lights, accessories) and assist the voltage upkeep.   

2. The knock coming from the engine can be from a lot of things. Some are not a worry others are. This is going to sound stupid but I narrow it down using an old fashioned trick. I take a broom stick and cut it in half.  I put my ear to one end and the other on different parts of the engine.  You will hear it through the stick louder as you get closer. Silly as it sounds it’s a big help narrowing things down.   It could be a valve adjustment, easy look it up on YouTube and you will see how easy to do. Second could be a clutch knocking as its spinning as it’s spinning at idle they tend to make a knock, also adjustable.   The cam chain could be a little loose and my need a new chain tensioner or a stretched chain but that would throw the timing off a little and you would hear some backfiring possibly. Or worse and could actually be a main bearing. Process of elimination. 

3. As far as the shifting goes that’s just the way it is on 4x4’s. All four wheels spinning at the same time. Just make sure it’s not in a low gear setting if there is one.  I don’t think it would go more then 50mph at best.  

4. I would make sure your carburetor is good and clean as it could be causing a little hesitation in the throttle.  Great idea changing the plug and some fresh gas but you have to make sure the fuel is flowing properly from the gas tank and the carb is clear and adjusted right. 

5. The clicking sound is most likely coming from a worn CV joint on an axle.  You can buy a new or rebuilt one on eBay.  

Take a deep breath, make a list and tackle each item one at a time.  Also check the fluids on the differentials.  First things first get a battery.  Amazon $50 bucks.  

  • Like 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the quick response! I left out the fact it's a 2wd only. And the clutch seems to be slipping in the higher gears now that u mention it. I'm not familiar with the style of clutch these use. Is it like the disc in a shifting trans or more of a centrifugal like a go kart? 

I actually work at a parts house so a battery will be no problem. I'll try to find a pdf of the manual and check the valves and see if I can adjust those as well as the clutch. I checked with my local repair shop but they are so backed up it be a few months before they could help me out. Thanks again and I'll keep everyone posted on how it goes.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

You will be able to download the manual after a few posts in the forum if there is one in the download section.

There are a ton of members that have these bikes and can help.  

The clutch is exactly like you think.  It’s centrifugal and as it spins faster it expands and grabs the housing thus moving the bike. 

It sounds like your capable of doing this. Plus like I said you have help here with the members.    Download the manual when your allowed (after 10 posts in the forums) and study it well. Print or screen shot the pages you need and you will figure it out.   Ask as many questions as you need.  


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Was actually digging around to do just that! The whole timing thing kinda give me the worries. Being that I've had cars where the timing belt brakes and wrecks the top on the engine, bent valves and terrible things lol 

Guess I'll stop riding it for the moment and try to get these in line for repairs. With the warmer weather it's a lil tempting when I get off work to just hop on and go. 

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

It’s very similar to the car engine and the slapping a valve agains the piston. So you have the right idea. But that may not even be the problem.   Drain the oil and check it for metal chunks or shavings, color.

Add some fresh oil and run it. Listen in on the engine like I said with the stick.  


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just changed the oil a few hours ago and luckily not a sign of shavings in the oil or filter itself. I have heard the stick idea before but it didn't cross my mind. Definitely check it again tomorrow and get a battery in it as well as disassemble the carb for a good cleaning and the air filter also. 

Will the air filter need to be oiled like 2strokes? If so motor oil or ATF for a simple fix? 

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

So I looked at that bike and that rear axle is a straight axle bike.  I thought it may be independent suspension. There is no CV joint. So the clicking in the rear may be a spline on the axle slipping and or a bearing that’s on the way out. 

Yes that oil is fine. Not too much.  


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yea I think the shaft back to the axle has a u-joint but my luck it will be the gear inside. The shaft didn't have the slightest bit of play so the joint is probably fine. Boots were intact even though this thing was caked with debris when I got it. Been rolled at some point for sure...

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Dam that sucks.  Hopefully you got a good deal on it.  If it’s the axle hopefully it’s just that then it’s a $100 part give or take. If the differential splines are torn up as well then that’s a whole different story.   


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well I got out from the worse deal I had before this... traded a dead... like it was trashed, bent rims, missing spokes, slipping clutch, and blown smoke like a train, not running and hadn't in years, 2003 yamaha ttr225 and $300 for this running and riding 2007 ozark quadrunner 250. So even if it last thru the summer I'll consider it a win lol

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Definitely will do after work tomorrow! She ain't bad of a looker, all black with the factory stickers and headlights still intact. Most of the plastic push pins are gone which lead me to believehe had them off about to start working on it. Gave me the story it was his ex wife's and was tired of having to look at it. Hahaha. 

It was listed for sale on offerup and was going to just buy it but told him I couldn'tcome look at it right them due to having someone coming to look at the bike I had listed for 400 bucks so basically have 700 in it for the moment 

Here's the pic from his ad. It cleaned up well once I got the mud off and the plastic back on correctly 


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Update on the quad....

Carb cleaned throughly, new battery and valves set to spec. Not a lick of change in the sound or performance of it once so ever. 

Still heavy tick and loss of power at full throttle. It revs perfect in neutral but under a load it's spitting just a hair at high rpms. Clutch is slipping as well. I adjusted it how the manual said but it wouldn't pull at all so I turned it back to the original spot I found it at. Will pull fine til 3rd then you can tell it just won't increase speed and hear the revs up. 

Final thought... shine it up and sell it as is. Too much work to put into it from my view. 

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By wwdubose
      I have two 2003 Suzuki Ozark 250s, both 2-wheel drive.  Last time we rode them about a year ago, the red one was not running well, didn't want to idle, backfired a lot.  The green one ran fine. 
      Fast forward...I ordered a carb kit for both of them, thinking the red one has some trash in a jet.  Both of these ATVs have had little use and I've always ran the gas out after use (put an inline cutoff valve in gas line).  I pull started the red one to verify it was still running bad.  It will start and idle, but as soon as you give it any throttle, it dies instantly.  Give it a little choke, dies instantly.  Took the carb apart and it was spotless.  Went ahead and cleaned all the holes with carb cleaner and blew everything out with compressed air.  All new jets, main jet holder, and needles.  Put it back on and nothing changed.  Starts, idles (not for a long time), but dies as soon as you give it gas.  Same happens when you put the choke on.  It does the same thing when I try to run it turned to prime on the petcock as it does in the on position.
      Not an air filter issue.  It is clean and it does the same exact thing with no filter on it.
      Thought maybe there was a float issue or maybe a damaged diaphragm, so I took the carb off the green Ozark and put it on red.  Started up and initially ran normal and revved for about 10 seconds and then started doing the same exact thing.  Starts, idles (not for a long time), but dies as soon as you give it gas.  Same happens when you put the choke on. 
      So...not the carb
      Thought maybe vacuum petcock was bad, but there's no gas in the vacuum line going from petcock to carb and gas flows freely when on prime.  I even plugged the vacuum line at both the petcock and carb end and tried to run it with valve set to prime.  Gas flows freely, but does exactly the same thing.  I unscrewed the screw at the bottom of the bowl and gas flows thru carb and out bowl drain line when petcock is set to prime.
      So, I'm assuming petcock is good?
      Checked spark plug and it wasn't fouled.  Reset gap, didn't help.  Will swap plugs between Ozarks tomorrow but I don't think that is it.
      Anyway, that he history and now you're all caught up.  Scratching my head.  Valves? These were bought at same time and have had little use.  Suggestions?
    • By BuckBilly
      Does any one else own a Ozark. I have owned mine since March 5 2002. No complaints so far. Its been a great quad. Just wish it was a 4x4 some times. Next one will be.
  • Similar Topics

    • By VikingTrad3r
      picked up my third timberwolf 250 for my daughters.  these are great light weight little quads.
      have a strange one for you.  the quad will NOT start in neutral.  it will start in first. 
      if i lift up on the gear selector just enough to hear the little click (its not loud, sounds like a contact clicking, perhaps the neutral safety switch?) the light will go out, but it won't yet be in first either.  that is how i have shown my daughter to start it and she can.
      id like to carry out whatever repair is needed.  i have the pdf of the shop manual but it doesn't really have a flow through diagram.
      any help appreciated!  thank you.
      i need to add something.  it feels like i can switch into another gear BELOW neutral.  
      so if i switch to neutral, i can keep pushing the gear selector, and it has another click below the neutral.  the light stays on, and when i pull up into first it kind of feels like it has two positions it moves through to arrive at first.
    • By Curtis01
      OK, sooo  I finally did the old skid plate and screen removal to clean out my oil sump during an oil change...  This bike only has a couple thousand miles on it.  Runs like a top still...  Very few issues over the years after buying it used.
      But boy I wasn't expecting to see this!  Piece of a circlip, stuck up in the screen, and a another shard of metal and maybe a piece of gasket material.  Nothing in the oil but that...  Pristine otherwise, and still runs like a top.  Always has.
      Soooo, is it a wrist pin clip?  That's the only thing I can think of like this that could end up in there.  But definitely wanted to throw it out to guys that have seen the innerds of these more than I have.
      The valves on this thing are still within the factory spec even.  Been a really good lil workhorse...
      Any other ideas?

    • By redneck999
      i am sure some one has switched from the dinky battery to a larger car car battery, so any advice? ive got enough bits and bobs on my atv that i feel i need to step up, i keep a float charger on it but i left it unplugged for about a week and it was dead and it a fairly new battery from advance auto, im probably gonna add a cb radio in the future and i think the only thin that has a constant draw is the clock in the dash and the memory for the stereo
      2012 cf moto x5 500 lwb
    • By billyz57
      New to Quadcrazy, Has any Yamaha owners had similar issue?
      1987 Yamaha YFM 350 Starts on Pull, but just spins on starter, and won't start.
    • By bradleyheathhays
      '96 Cherokee here and right now I'm dealing with a no start after a few weeks of suspicious symptoms. She's been driven a lot less over the past year and about a month ago she began starting a little slow. I've got an oversized battery in there so usually she cranks right up no problem. I started monitoring batt voltage and saw around 12.04 V with engine off and 14.10 V or so running. Right before I get the new battery I head to Advance and they run a battery/alternator test. Kid tells me my batt is bad but alternator is still good.

      So I lay out the $ and install the same size 34N EverStart Maxx 800 cca from Wally's and the slow start persists. Measuring the new battery with engine off yields consistent readings of just under 12.7 V, so for the past few weeks I began charging the batt at 2A which seemed to help. A few days ago I venture out for an errand and the engine doesn't restart to get me back home. I get no clicks or cranking at all with a key turn. Batt measures 12.67 V at the terminals. Dash gauges seem to react with the key on, voltmeter reading ~11.5 V, although I'm not sure how accurate that is. Fuel pump pressurizes.

      Something that happened right after battery change out, which may or may not help in diagnosing the problem, is that my pass side headlight only illuminated half way while the driver side stayed full bright. I have an LMC Truck aftermarket headlight wiring harness giving 55/100w low high beam. It's the kind where you run the lights straight off the battery through additional relays. Had to tinker with the light harness a bit to get the new batt in and may have compromised a connection? Maybe a ground? Either way the pass headlight started showing full bright after only 1 or 2 occurrences and has been right ever since. With my alternator testing good and a new battery I wondered if maybe a loose connection was draining my voltage. I was in the middle of testing batt V connected vs. disconnected over time but this no start happened before I could get it done.

      Last thing to mention is that recently I've been removing both my fuel pump and starter relays for security reasons. The way it's acting now is exactly like when trying to start with both relays removed. Being that the fuel pump is pressurizing should I consider testing the starter relay? Other than that could I have caused some kind of part failure by removing and reinstalling the relays maybe around 5-6 times over the last month?

      All ears
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Create New...