Quantcast
Jump to content

2007 Ozark 250 rattle, hesitation and battery


Tru-hue nc

Recommended Posts

Hi! 1st post and this is my 1st shaft driven atv, plus it's been several years since I've rode anything 4stoke. Got this quad for a reasonable price and it does run. That being said it doesn't have a battery so I just pull start it really easy... 

Question 1: is a battery required for the atv to run property? (Under heavy throttle it kinda misses and u can feel the hesitation) 

Question 2: it has a rattle from the engine but not sure if it's normal for these or not. The the lower end might be the source of the sound but with it at idle it's hard to tell. In my head all 4stokes sound off so Idk...

Question 3: the semiauto shift is a new thing to me and how the heck do I know what gear I'm in? Lol it seems to always be in a low gear regardless of the up shift. Maybe does 40mph on road but with the previous hesitation mentioned above its about all I can get out of it... 

Additional info: new plug, fresh gas and oil change. No battery connected at all. Neutral light will flicker at idle but reverse never lights. Seems to make a Lil clicking from the rear end at higher speeds. 

Worst fears: had a rod bearing worn out, valves need adjustment and timing tensioner is off, rear end is about to grenade?!? 

I basically know nothing about it and need help to see if it's worth fixing and how much expense I'm looking at... thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome to Quadcrazy!  

Congrats on the bike. 

1. You definitely need a battery. Although the bike can self support its own spark and run, the battery by design is to support the additional  features (lights, accessories) and assist the voltage upkeep.   

2. The knock coming from the engine can be from a lot of things. Some are not a worry others are. This is going to sound stupid but I narrow it down using an old fashioned trick. I take a broom stick and cut it in half.  I put my ear to one end and the other on different parts of the engine.  You will hear it through the stick louder as you get closer. Silly as it sounds it’s a big help narrowing things down.   It could be a valve adjustment, easy look it up on YouTube and you will see how easy to do. Second could be a clutch knocking as its spinning as it’s spinning at idle they tend to make a knock, also adjustable.   The cam chain could be a little loose and my need a new chain tensioner or a stretched chain but that would throw the timing off a little and you would hear some backfiring possibly. Or worse and could actually be a main bearing. Process of elimination. 

3. As far as the shifting goes that’s just the way it is on 4x4’s. All four wheels spinning at the same time. Just make sure it’s not in a low gear setting if there is one.  I don’t think it would go more then 50mph at best.  

4. I would make sure your carburetor is good and clean as it could be causing a little hesitation in the throttle.  Great idea changing the plug and some fresh gas but you have to make sure the fuel is flowing properly from the gas tank and the carb is clear and adjusted right. 

5. The clicking sound is most likely coming from a worn CV joint on an axle.  You can buy a new or rebuilt one on eBay.  

Take a deep breath, make a list and tackle each item one at a time.  Also check the fluids on the differentials.  First things first get a battery.  Amazon $50 bucks.  

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the quick response! I left out the fact it's a 2wd only. And the clutch seems to be slipping in the higher gears now that u mention it. I'm not familiar with the style of clutch these use. Is it like the disc in a shifting trans or more of a centrifugal like a go kart? 

I actually work at a parts house so a battery will be no problem. I'll try to find a pdf of the manual and check the valves and see if I can adjust those as well as the clutch. I checked with my local repair shop but they are so backed up it be a few months before they could help me out. Thanks again and I'll keep everyone posted on how it goes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You will be able to download the manual after a few posts in the forum if there is one in the download section.

There are a ton of members that have these bikes and can help.  

The clutch is exactly like you think.  It’s centrifugal and as it spins faster it expands and grabs the housing thus moving the bike. 

It sounds like your capable of doing this. Plus like I said you have help here with the members.    Download the manual when your allowed (after 10 posts in the forums) and study it well. Print or screen shot the pages you need and you will figure it out.   Ask as many questions as you need.  

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Was actually digging around to do just that! The whole timing thing kinda give me the worries. Being that I've had cars where the timing belt brakes and wrecks the top on the engine, bent valves and terrible things lol 

Guess I'll stop riding it for the moment and try to get these in line for repairs. With the warmer weather it's a lil tempting when I get off work to just hop on and go. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just changed the oil a few hours ago and luckily not a sign of shavings in the oil or filter itself. I have heard the stick idea before but it didn't cross my mind. Definitely check it again tomorrow and get a battery in it as well as disassemble the carb for a good cleaning and the air filter also. 

Will the air filter need to be oiled like 2strokes? If so motor oil or ATF for a simple fix? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yea I think the shaft back to the axle has a u-joint but my luck it will be the gear inside. The shaft didn't have the slightest bit of play so the joint is probably fine. Boots were intact even though this thing was caked with debris when I got it. Been rolled at some point for sure...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I got out from the worse deal I had before this... traded a dead... like it was trashed, bent rims, missing spokes, slipping clutch, and blown smoke like a train, not running and hadn't in years, 2003 yamaha ttr225 and $300 for this running and riding 2007 ozark quadrunner 250. So even if it last thru the summer I'll consider it a win lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Definitely will do after work tomorrow! She ain't bad of a looker, all black with the factory stickers and headlights still intact. Most of the plastic push pins are gone which lead me to believehe had them off about to start working on it. Gave me the story it was his ex wife's and was tired of having to look at it. Hahaha. 

It was listed for sale on offerup and was going to just buy it but told him I couldn'tcome look at it right them due to having someone coming to look at the bike I had listed for 400 bucks so basically have 700 in it for the moment 

Here's the pic from his ad. It cleaned up well once I got the mud off and the plastic back on correctly 

Screenshot_2019-04-22-10-45-11.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Update on the quad....

Carb cleaned throughly, new battery and valves set to spec. Not a lick of change in the sound or performance of it once so ever. 

Still heavy tick and loss of power at full throttle. It revs perfect in neutral but under a load it's spitting just a hair at high rpms. Clutch is slipping as well. I adjusted it how the manual said but it wouldn't pull at all so I turned it back to the original spot I found it at. Will pull fine til 3rd then you can tell it just won't increase speed and hear the revs up. 

Final thought... shine it up and sell it as is. Too much work to put into it from my view. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By lindzjo
      Does anyone have a service manual for Qlink 700 atv.I cant find anything on one.Please help
    • By lewisrssll
      View File Thumpstar ATV 70, 125, 250 Owner's Manual
      ATV 70 125 250 - v6.pdf
      Thumpstar ATV 70, 125, 250 Owner's Manual
      Submitter lewisrssll Submitted 10/01/2024 Category Other ATV  
    • By Chucksta
      So.. it a weird one.. The quad surges as you go down the road. By the looks of my tracks, it's one wheel only. High range, low range, 2 wd , 4 wd.. It just doesn't matter.. 
      You can see in the pictures the marks it leaves. That was in a straight line, with hardly any acceleration. 
      Any ideas?



    • By ATVNetwork
      The AMA U.S. ATV Motocross Team of Bryce Ford, Joel Hetrick and Brandon Hoag dominated in the Czech Republic at the 2024 Federation Internationale de Motocyclisme (FIM) Quadcross of Nations. It marks the sixth time that the team has secured a global championship since 2017.View the full article
    • By DarkRider
      Hey Everybody,
       
      I am always curious about any ATVs I haven't tried yet. I'll probably be in the market for something different soon, currently looking to sell my 05 Brute Force 750. I decided to note my favorite features of any 4x4 ATV and compile them into a list. These are all models I've had in the past, the King Quad 300 and Brute Force 750 are my current models. I'll most likely consolidate to one.
       
      Really just wanted to get some ideas on what other people have owned in a similar range, and maybe get ideas for my idea quad (used). So far, I keep finding myself back at the 05 Yamaha Kodiak 450 or Grizzly 450. Not sure exactly what years they made which, but they seem pretty similar.
       
      Some of the features I tend to like best  (aside from durability and reliability)
      Engine braking (good for hill descent) Park gear (the regular parking brakes always seem to be finicky) Mid sized engine for better fuel efficiency (Seems that anything 500 or above really starts to guzzle gas, and they fit better on narrower trails) IRS (more comfortable ride) Diff Lock (can't live without it) **Side note: I know Durability and Reliability might seem like they'd be the same, but the way I am defining them is:
      Durability is how long I can go without something breaking. OR how often things break with seeming not much of a good reason. Reliability is about the on-trail experience of having everything work properly as designed (i.e. Starting up and being able to get going without much issue, the 4wd drive engages without quirks, I can park it on a hill when needing to help someone else without worrying it'll roll away, etc) My Brute Force 750 is a perfect example of why Durability and Reliability were rated so differently. With durability, I really never felt like I've had anything break on the thing that was really from riding it. Which is great in that regard. But all of the things i've had to fix on it seem more so in it's design. The infamous KEBC code on the dash that refused to go away even after completely cleaning and lubing the KEBC and confirming it functions properly. Hard starting issues. 4WD requires you to roll about 10 to 15 feet to engage, so if you get stuck in 2WD, you're in a pickle. The infamous bus connector that goes bad and stops your charging system from working. I've worked through all of these, but these are all things I'd consider reliability issues that happen really at no fault of mine as I ride it pretty gently. Writing up this list has actually put a lot into perspective for me. The King Quad 300 really is a superb quad. The inclusion of the Super Low range provides stellar engine braking down pretty much any hill you can think of, it seems like it's unmatched. It has great gas mileage, and it's been dead reliable despite being a 1994. It's got 4x4 AND Diff lock, and the semi automatic transmission also help with not letting the quad get out of control down a hill. Plus it's more fun to me and gives me a bit more to do while riding. The biggest annoyance so far has been the parking brake. No matter how much I adjust it, it just doesn't seem stay adjusted after some time. I believe this might just be flawed on these models.  Also, parts availability is not the greatest on these since they don't make anything newer with any similar parts. Front axles are quite expensive, rear drive shafts go for $400 to $500 brand new, etc.
      And that's where the Park gear on Yamaha's Ultramatic eliminates that issue. That's where I keep landing on the older Grizzly or Kodiak 450s. They have a park gear, IRS and Diff lock, a lot of power and they're super fun to ride (got to test one).  But I'd be giving up fuel efficiency and the Super Low range. The Ultramatics still have good engine braking, but still not comparable to the Super Low on Suzuki.
       
      With ALL that said, curious about what other people out there have had and enjoyed, and I'm just looking to get some ideas of what other smaller/mid sized quads are out there with similar features.  I don't really know anything about Honda, Suzuki, or Arctic Cat models from the mid 2000's.
       
      Curious to hear other perspectives!
       
      Make Model Year Parking (gear/brake) Engine Braking Fuel Efficiency (mpg) IRS Diff Lock Durability (1-5) Reliability (1-5) Overall Rank (1-5) Suzuki King Quad 300 1994 Brake Super Low range 20 Yes Yes 4 4 4 Honda Rancher 350ES 2002 Brake (none?) 17.5 No No 5 5 4 Kawasaki Brute Force 750 2005 Brake KEBC Module 12.5 Yes Yes 4 2 3 Yamaha Grizzly 660 2006 Gear Ultramatic 12.5 Yes Yes 5 5 3 Yamaha Wolverine 450 2009 Gear Ultramatic 17.5 No No 4 5 3 Polaris Scrambler 4x4 4-Stroke 2002 Brake (none?) 14 No AWD 2 4 1 Polaris Sportsman 500 4x4 2000 Brake (none?) 15 Yes AWD 2 4 1
×
×
  • Create New...