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Tru-hue nc

2007 Ozark 250 rattle, hesitation and battery

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Hi! 1st post and this is my 1st shaft driven atv, plus it's been several years since I've rode anything 4stoke. Got this quad for a reasonable price and it does run. That being said it doesn't have a battery so I just pull start it really easy... 

Question 1: is a battery required for the atv to run property? (Under heavy throttle it kinda misses and u can feel the hesitation) 

Question 2: it has a rattle from the engine but not sure if it's normal for these or not. The the lower end might be the source of the sound but with it at idle it's hard to tell. In my head all 4stokes sound off so Idk...

Question 3: the semiauto shift is a new thing to me and how the heck do I know what gear I'm in? Lol it seems to always be in a low gear regardless of the up shift. Maybe does 40mph on road but with the previous hesitation mentioned above its about all I can get out of it... 

Additional info: new plug, fresh gas and oil change. No battery connected at all. Neutral light will flicker at idle but reverse never lights. Seems to make a Lil clicking from the rear end at higher speeds. 

Worst fears: had a rod bearing worn out, valves need adjustment and timing tensioner is off, rear end is about to grenade?!? 

I basically know nothing about it and need help to see if it's worth fixing and how much expense I'm looking at... thanks

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Welcome to Quadcrazy!  

Congrats on the bike. 

1. You definitely need a battery. Although the bike can self support its own spark and run, the battery by design is to support the additional  features (lights, accessories) and assist the voltage upkeep.   

2. The knock coming from the engine can be from a lot of things. Some are not a worry others are. This is going to sound stupid but I narrow it down using an old fashioned trick. I take a broom stick and cut it in half.  I put my ear to one end and the other on different parts of the engine.  You will hear it through the stick louder as you get closer. Silly as it sounds it’s a big help narrowing things down.   It could be a valve adjustment, easy look it up on YouTube and you will see how easy to do. Second could be a clutch knocking as its spinning as it’s spinning at idle they tend to make a knock, also adjustable.   The cam chain could be a little loose and my need a new chain tensioner or a stretched chain but that would throw the timing off a little and you would hear some backfiring possibly. Or worse and could actually be a main bearing. Process of elimination. 

3. As far as the shifting goes that’s just the way it is on 4x4’s. All four wheels spinning at the same time. Just make sure it’s not in a low gear setting if there is one.  I don’t think it would go more then 50mph at best.  

4. I would make sure your carburetor is good and clean as it could be causing a little hesitation in the throttle.  Great idea changing the plug and some fresh gas but you have to make sure the fuel is flowing properly from the gas tank and the carb is clear and adjusted right. 

5. The clicking sound is most likely coming from a worn CV joint on an axle.  You can buy a new or rebuilt one on eBay.  

Take a deep breath, make a list and tackle each item one at a time.  Also check the fluids on the differentials.  First things first get a battery.  Amazon $50 bucks.  

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Thanks for the quick response! I left out the fact it's a 2wd only. And the clutch seems to be slipping in the higher gears now that u mention it. I'm not familiar with the style of clutch these use. Is it like the disc in a shifting trans or more of a centrifugal like a go kart? 

I actually work at a parts house so a battery will be no problem. I'll try to find a pdf of the manual and check the valves and see if I can adjust those as well as the clutch. I checked with my local repair shop but they are so backed up it be a few months before they could help me out. Thanks again and I'll keep everyone posted on how it goes.

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You will be able to download the manual after a few posts in the forum if there is one in the download section.

There are a ton of members that have these bikes and can help.  

The clutch is exactly like you think.  It’s centrifugal and as it spins faster it expands and grabs the housing thus moving the bike. 

It sounds like your capable of doing this. Plus like I said you have help here with the members.    Download the manual when your allowed (after 10 posts in the forums) and study it well. Print or screen shot the pages you need and you will figure it out.   Ask as many questions as you need.  

 

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Was actually digging around to do just that! The whole timing thing kinda give me the worries. Being that I've had cars where the timing belt brakes and wrecks the top on the engine, bent valves and terrible things lol 

Guess I'll stop riding it for the moment and try to get these in line for repairs. With the warmer weather it's a lil tempting when I get off work to just hop on and go. 

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It’s very similar to the car engine and the slapping a valve agains the piston. So you have the right idea. But that may not even be the problem.   Drain the oil and check it for metal chunks or shavings, color.

Add some fresh oil and run it. Listen in on the engine like I said with the stick.  

 

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Just changed the oil a few hours ago and luckily not a sign of shavings in the oil or filter itself. I have heard the stick idea before but it didn't cross my mind. Definitely check it again tomorrow and get a battery in it as well as disassemble the carb for a good cleaning and the air filter also. 

Will the air filter need to be oiled like 2strokes? If so motor oil or ATF for a simple fix? 

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So I looked at that bike and that rear axle is a straight axle bike.  I thought it may be independent suspension. There is no CV joint. So the clicking in the rear may be a spline on the axle slipping and or a bearing that’s on the way out. 

Yes that oil is fine. Not too much.  

 

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Yea I think the shaft back to the axle has a u-joint but my luck it will be the gear inside. The shaft didn't have the slightest bit of play so the joint is probably fine. Boots were intact even though this thing was caked with debris when I got it. Been rolled at some point for sure...

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Dam that sucks.  Hopefully you got a good deal on it.  If it’s the axle hopefully it’s just that then it’s a $100 part give or take. If the differential splines are torn up as well then that’s a whole different story.   

 

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Well I got out from the worse deal I had before this... traded a dead... like it was trashed, bent rims, missing spokes, slipping clutch, and blown smoke like a train, not running and hadn't in years, 2003 yamaha ttr225 and $300 for this running and riding 2007 ozark quadrunner 250. So even if it last thru the summer I'll consider it a win lol

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Definitely will do after work tomorrow! She ain't bad of a looker, all black with the factory stickers and headlights still intact. Most of the plastic push pins are gone which lead me to believehe had them off about to start working on it. Gave me the story it was his ex wife's and was tired of having to look at it. Hahaha. 

It was listed for sale on offerup and was going to just buy it but told him I couldn'tcome look at it right them due to having someone coming to look at the bike I had listed for 400 bucks so basically have 700 in it for the moment 

Here's the pic from his ad. It cleaned up well once I got the mud off and the plastic back on correctly 

Screenshot_2019-04-22-10-45-11.png

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Update on the quad....

Carb cleaned throughly, new battery and valves set to spec. Not a lick of change in the sound or performance of it once so ever. 

Still heavy tick and loss of power at full throttle. It revs perfect in neutral but under a load it's spitting just a hair at high rpms. Clutch is slipping as well. I adjusted it how the manual said but it wouldn't pull at all so I turned it back to the original spot I found it at. Will pull fine til 3rd then you can tell it just won't increase speed and hear the revs up. 

Final thought... shine it up and sell it as is. Too much work to put into it from my view. 

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