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I have a Yamaha Timberwolf 250 2x4 that I purchased a while ago as a project. I fixed it up to where everything was working great in my opinion, however when I showed it to a potential buyer he complained about a vibration from the rear drive shaft. (Which I ridiculous seeing as he tried to wheelie it before that) Anyways I took the rear diff apart and found most of the seals and bearings where bad. So I bought a kit off of amazon only to find that it doesn’t have all of the bearings and seals. After finding that I decided to try to find a used good condition replacement but they’re all to expensive for me so is there a better alternative for me, or can someone point me in the right direction to get the rest of the parts?
It will go into neutral, 1st, 2nd, and reverse but nothing after 2nd gear. The shifter moves freely going up completely nothing but when you shift down it works. I’m not sure if it’s tranny issue worth messing with or if I should just buy a new one. Overall besides that the thing runs like new.
I was given a 2008 Yamaha Timberwolf by my in laws a few weeks back. Of course my FIL said it hasn’t run in 8 years but all it needs is gas and oil!
That hasn’t been the case...so far I’ve replaced the spark plug, changed air filter, replaced battery, replaced fuel and oil filters, fresh oil and gas. I tried starting her up and no luck, it turns over but won’t get going.
Now I’ve moved on to cleaning the carburetor which I’ve heard is a common problem area. I can’t figure out how to remove the bowl at the bottom, any suggestions? I removed the four screws that I thought were holding it in place but the bowl won’t budge
Thanks and looking forward to getting her running!
Some photos of what I’ve got going on , this has taken over the garage
By Sharon van den Berg
We bought an old atv from friends to bum around on the farm with. VIN number is rusted off. Is there a way to determine the year model from the engine number? We only need the info to buy parts. Please help
Just picked this up at a yard sale, runs and drives..color coded wires for battery were backwards, Meaning a red wire was used for negative and a black for positive....
Upon bringing it home decided to boost the battery and walked away giving it a small charge prior to starting it..came back to find battery slightly smoking and my Green light for power (neutral) was no longer lit up...Still starts when i pull start it with key on.
Turn key on and no starter spin up, no lights
Id like to get my Electric start working, What could be the problem, Where does one start.
By John Torbus
I am trying to figure out what the resistors do in this circuit. From what I have read in the manual the head light/tail light circuit is A/C. I am adding LED headlights/taillight so I want to convert it to D/C. My assumption is the resistors in the circuit bleed off some power since the incandescent bulbs are low wattage. Any input would be greatly appreciated. I am not putting a Baja LED light kit or light bar, just LED bulbs in the stock location and a small cube flood mounted on the handle bars. I already have the LED bulbs installed in the stock locations but they flicker badly.
Pred 50 Wiring Diagram.pdf
Below is a quote from a response to similar question from yesterday:
"Easiest thing to check is trash in the main jet. if it idles fine, then the idle circuit and low speed jet is clear. if it bogs off idle that's when it's transitioning to the main jet."
I will go ahead and open up the carb and check the main jet, but please respond to this post as if the main jet is squeaky clean.
Below is my post:
Only starts and runs on Full chock.
Does not matter what position I have my "mixture" screw. Tried it at zero, 1 turn, 2 turn, up to five turns. Spent a few hours confirming that the position of the mixture screw does not resolve issue.
Runs great at idle and if I slowly engage throttle, it will rev up as expected. But, quick rev up or when I am trying to drive it, it spits and sputters and looses power.
I also use a propane bottle and did not find any obvious leaks, and the vacuum port is hooked to fuel peacock and I also made sure to simply block the port with my finger to see if that would resolve the issue.
New Carb (after market), New Coil, Fresh Gas. No leaks at manifold boot, hot battery. Good gas flow. Runs too good to be a valve issue, or cylinder, great compression.
I can move the choke out a tiny bit, and it will still run, but will still bog down when I try to power it up.
I also have a 250 trail boss Polaris that I require to run at full choke, but it has power at all throttle potions.
I suspect it is running rich as the choke is on, but will not run with it off.
Any details would be appreciated.
I have a 2001 650 quest that ran great. Shut it off, wont start. Got tinkering at a buddies, it ended up in a snowbank. Lost my train of thought since then. I have a black, red, green top with two plug in wires yellow and yellow and red I believe.. I have a new battery. Just dunno what to do. I tried hooking the wire coming up to the solenoid on the far side, then directly across I put the positive cable and it instantly started turning over without the button being pressed until I took the cable off. The little black resistor box has also been eliminated. Any help would be greatly appreciated..
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