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93 Kodiak, clutch slipping

MarkinAR

By MarkinAR
in Yamaha ATV Forum

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MarkinAR Experienced

MarkinAR

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Posted

About done with the Kodiak finally. Oldest took it out today and ran the piss out of it, buried it to the belly, and I think its finally about ready to trust. However, there is a clutch slipping that needs to be addressed. It pulls fine from a dead stop to about half throttle. If you go ahead and open it up, the clutch basically lets go at higher RPM. My question then is; centrifugal clutch or main clutch pack bad? I assume since it pulls at low RPM then it's the main clutch pack slipping at WOT. School me though: where does the centrifugal clutch end and main clutch pack begin?  Also added to this issue, he was crusing down a gravel road and all 4 wheels locked up and it died. I assume it tried to throw 2 gears at the same time and locked up. It unlocked though and shifted ok after coming to a stop. 

Frank Angerano Grand Master

Frank Angerano

Posted
Posted

That would prob a better road to go down (shift mechanism). 

The locking up bothers me I wouldn’t think it would lock up unless there was an issue with the drive train itself that would not correct itself. 

I’m also surprised that the motor didn’t get damaged by such a sudden stop. 

MarkinAR Experienced

MarkinAR

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  • Author
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Same here. Guess it could also be the front or rear diff since it's full time 4wd. Any of those locking up would lock up the whole thing. The front diff was ran dry by previous owner so we're working through that. 

MarkinAR Experienced

MarkinAR

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  • Author
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I recut the grooves in the centrifugal clutch though, and there was quite a bit of clutch material left. Way more than the bayou I recut a few months back. Weird. Guess I'll just have to break it open and start over. 

MarkinAR Experienced

MarkinAR

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  • Author
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This Kodiak is a turd that won't flush. Front diff seal is pouring and it started making an odd knock while running. turns out the odd knock is the cylinder popping up and down against the motor case bc the previous "mechanic" stripped the head bolt threads on one head bolt and the cylinder has a bit of wiggle. Waiting on helicoil to arrive and a diff seal and we'll try again. Turd I tell you!

Steve A Rookie

Steve A

Posted
Posted (edited)

It's impossible to get the transmission in two gears at the same time (it's a constant mesh transmission - half the gears are splined to the transmission shafts and the other half freewheel), but if a freewheeling gear seizes to the shaft it's the same as being in two gears at the same time.  The centrifugal clutch engages at about 2000 RPM and is in full lock at 2500 to 3000 rpm and is not adjustable, but the manual clutch is adjustable.  If the clutch adjustment is too tight, is can release the clutch as the engine heats and most noticeable in the higher gears.  You can test the release point of the manual clutch by pressing or lifting lightly on the shift lever.  The shift lever releases the manual clutch to facilitate shifting.  If you just barely press on the shift lever and the clutch releases, adjust the clutch release on the clutch cover for a later release.  If you have to press the lever about half way through a shift to get the clutch to release it is about right.  If it's about right at this time and you press on the lever to get it to release while holding the throttle wide open in high gear, then let off the shift lever and it continues to slip until you let off the throttle and perhaps slips again when you get back on the throttle, then the plates probably need to be replaced.

Edited by Steve A

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