Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV? Join our Forum!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

barracuda420

Advice needed: Repairing sunk 2018 Polaris Ranger 500

Recommended Posts

Hi, I'm new to ATV/UTV's and am looking for any advice that would help to repair my 2018 Ranger 500.  I got it from an insurance auction and have never owned one before.

It looks like it was sunk deep.  Found rocks and sand in the roof, milky oil in the air filter box, water in the fuse box, etc.

So far, I've cleaned the air box out, vacuumed most of the rocks and sand, checked the engine, trans and diff casings for cracks/leaks.

The battery would not charge while connected so I know there is some short somewhere...probably the wet fuse box.

 

I plan on drying out the fuse box and all connectors with a hairdryer tomorrow, check the fuses, remove/dry out the ECM and disassemble/clean the air intake.  Then install the battery and see if i can get it to key on and see what kind of lights I get.

Need to know what to expect with the engine/trans...

Thanks.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


How much did you get it for? I think you are on the right track...

Remove spark plug and crank the engine to make sure no water is in the cylinder/hydro locked. Is it belt drive? There should be a drain to let water out. Check all the electrical, buy a new battery because its probably shorted. Change the oil and filter and plan to do it again after you get it running. You may have other electrical issues but you wont know until you try to get it running.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Excellent advice by @Ajmboy ! 
I would pull all the plugs apart, fuses out and spray all electric plugs and the fuse box with dialectral grease. Label everything so you don't get confused as well as a few pics incase. 
 

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bid was $3750.  $4548 with all the fees.  Hoping to see low mileage when I get the power going.  According to the title, it was originally titled 8/2018.  There is about $800 worth of accessories on it too.  Came with no key so I got a $10 chinese replacement just to get working on it.

Auction link: www.copart.com/lot/49761799

I wanna pull the clutch cover off too and see how bad it is in there.  I'm assuming its a belt drive.  I charged the battery and its been holding at 12.2v for 2 days(not connected) so Ill see how that goes later.  Would like to get a sealed AGM battery if they're available.  A buddy of mine said to drain everything from the engine, pour a little oil in the spark plug hole and manually turn the crank to lube the cylinder or the walls may get scratched up and lead to major blow-by.  I heard it is ok to use 5W-40 oil in it so I will run a few oil changes through it with that before switching to the pricy polaris PS-4 oil.  My buddy recommended like a half dozen oil changes to get everything out.

Unfortunately its at my brother's house about an hour away cause I don't have room for it here.  But it is in a heated garage which helps alot being in the Poconos in December.

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thats a good deal, hopefully no engine damage. Depends how it went in the water and for how long.  You'll know once you drain the oil and pull that plug. Take the belt cover off, there also should be a drain plug somewhere. Inspect everything. Hopefully the engine is good, the rest is probably ok.  Worse case scenario I think is an engine rebuild. You can then look used, look for a rebuilder like https://www.rev6sports.com/sportsman-500-engine-rebuild/

or even buy one on amazon - Polaris Ranger 500 99-13 Sportsman 500 96-13 Engine Motor Rebuilt :

Polaris Ranger 500 99-13 Sportsman 500 96-13 Engine Motor Rebuilt

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


As long as there's no major expensive parts involved, I may just pull the engine apart and clean it out, install new gaskets, etc.  An OEM crankshaft goes for about a grand. :(  My brother has an old(circa 2000) Sportsman 500 that he re-did the head gasket on...it cant be much different I suppose.  According to the users manual, anything below the floorboards is ok in water.  So diffs should be ok, but a drain and refill won't hurt.

 

Also, my dad is an auto mechanic and happens to have a borescope(? boroscope) which should help.

Edited by barracuda420

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

After a good shift last night,  my brother thinks the mechanical stuff is solid but has fears of the electrical stuff.  Being an electronics man, I stand polar opposite.

 

He showed me the motor parts moving properly with the borescope and I showed him how to clean electronics.  He sprayed some lube/penetrating oil/etc into the spark plug hole and turned the crank a few times...looked fluid.  Also showed me the valves moving.  (Note to self: Buy a borescope).     I removed all the aftermarket electronics,  washed and dried out all the electrical plugs I could find and then cleaned and tested the fuse box.  Brake light fuse was blown.  Bed lights need to be tested before re-installing....I'm sure they're filled with water.  From the amount of sand in it, my brother thinks it was sunk for days...possibly stolen and ditched in a river.

Have to do some research and get the proper parts in for the weekend...time to get her cranking!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Agreed on the electric stuff versus the engine stuff. The engine really only needs a few good flushes and it should be fine. No need to tear it down really.   
The electrical is where the problems happen, current wreaks havoc on the system in water when the shorts happen and destroys the controls very quickly. Especially the ignition parts. 
My guess is thats where you will spend the money.  The harness should be fine though overall and just the components that are on the system. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think I'll do ok as long as the ECM is ok.  Expecting a bad solenoid since it doesnt look waterproof. :(  Everything but the ECM is replaceable at 20% of Polaris cost...ECM is $600...Dealer part only. :( 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


I have faith in it.  I'm more worried about the fuel injection.

 

Anyone know what the antifreeze is?  I'm sure its a regular cheap grade stuff I can get at wally world for cheap.  Polaris stuff is $30/gal!?!?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

$30 a gal ???? Yep thank god for peak or prestone!! 
 

Fuel injectors yes def a good point, it all depends on how long it soaked and if it was fresh or salt water.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The stuff in it is green and my brother says its $10/gal.  Sweet.😊  The Polaris stuff is also pre-mixed 50/50, so its like $30 for a half gallon of actual antifreeze. 😠

 

Project is going slow due to the holidays but looks promising... see pic. :D

 

 

 

20191215_223303.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

Happy New Year my friends!!!

 

Got her up on stands and drained all her orifices.   Water came from everywhere she can puke from!!!  We replaced all the fluids.  Starts and works mechanically but seems weak.  Display doesn't work again and still no lights.(???)  Don't care about those, I can rig lights for now.  

 

Gonna take her out for a burn in the AM to test the Mechanical.  Then dump/replace fluids again.  

Possibly looking at a valve job and maybe a clutch or two. :/

 

Edited by barracuda420

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Happy new year.  
I figured as much with the display and electrical issues but it sounds like your making good progress. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


We took her out and shes a blast!! Mechanically fine.   Just need to heat her up a little and change the fluids a second and third time and she'll be mechanically sound til summer for a final fluid swap before going to the regular service intervals.  

 

Got the service manual and found out the key/ignition is 4-position, not 3 like the cheap replacement I got.(Keys were missing when I got it)  I think its gonna solve the electrical stuff easy.  If not, I'll hard-wire some lights and tough it out til summer.  

 

Just trying to find good doors, a rear window and a plow kit within a week or 2...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Awesome, i figured as much with the engine being ok. Thats the best part about the engines, they can be flooded and still work! Wiring/electrical is a whole new ballgame when waters involved. Glad to hear its running and your happy. 

lets see some pics. 
 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah.  I'm just getting into the sport.  But everyone I talk to says the engines are made to last.  Just replace the fluids a few times and you are good to go!

 

Will snap some pics tomorrow!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By colin james
      View File 2018/2019 Polaris Sportsman XP 850/1000 Service Manual
      This is the factory service manual for the 2018/2019 Polaris Sportsman XP 850/1000
      Submitter colin james Submitted 08/01/2019 Category Polaris ATV  
    • By Jeremy Morris
      If you're getting that pesky leaky seal on the pinion of your front differential and the pinion has allot of play, polaris won't sell the bushing needed to repair it properly without having to shell out big bucks for the complete ring and pinion kit. 
      I have a kit with an upgraded bushing, Japanese made bearing and USmade seal
      50 shipped in the US and 55 to Canada

    • By Dra O
      posted a while back - it was running at one point - I have all the plastic shroud off - it's down to frame and engine now
      -fuel pump: when line from petcock is attached, no fuel comes out other side to carb; the line to the carb is open (can blow through it); I thought when I cranked engine that the pump would spit out fuel on other side but it does not; I removed fuel pump and opened it up - diaphragm looks good - but internal areas had lotsa calcification build up - I cleaned this out and dried it good - the clear plastic pieces (?diaphragms) aren't broken - the spring w/ steel ball on end moves freely; am putting it back on tomorrow; but can anyone answer about the pump? isn't it supposed to pump fuel through it... to other side... to carb? puzzling
      -along with fuel pump: I replaced petcock 3 weeks ago (gas tank had rusty fuel in bottom - cleaned it out prior to new petcock); when I turn petcock arrow NOT to on or reserve, fuel comes out of line; when I turn it to on or reserve, fuel doesn't come out; puzzling
      -I don't know what's on back of fuel pump - it's a valve that has a hose coming out of it - looks like it goes to engine/carb - I haven't traced this out yet - what is it?
      -can squirt gas on air filter and engine will run for 2-3 seconds then stop - fuel in top of carb (under diaphragm) does same
      -it likely needs carb rebuild - will get to this - but something isn't allowing fuel to get from fuel pump to carb
      -I THINK it has a mikuni model x carb - diaphragm is ID 26mm  OD 68mm - hard to find inexpensive diaphragm, I guess because it's a model x
      -last thing - I replaced solenoid due to old one clicking; I HAVE to be charging the battery or it won't start/turn over - battery just goes dead; but if charging, it'll turn over nicely; i'm guessing it's a bad battery
      -any help appreciated - I've never owned an ATV before - inherited this beast from grandparent in-law
    • By dook
      I've been riding Suzuki Kingquad 300's for the last 20 years. I have 3 of them. I love the low gearing, low center of gravity, low rider position, low racks shaft drive and smooth ride, but they are getting old and I'm tired of fixing them. Best engineering of any utility quad, IMO, but the execution...build quality is not up to par with Honda, so the price you pay is lots of wrenching.
      I positively despise CVT type belt drives. My neighbor has a couple of old Hondas, Rancher and Rubicon and I admire the reliability of them. He does very little maintenance and they always run and have pulled my Kingquads home for me when they break.
      Is Honda the only company that makes ATV's that don't have CVT? I like the build quality but I don't like the high rider position caused by the vertical cylinder, the cold nature of them, having to warm up for several minutes and the plastic skid plates. I guess all modern ATV's have the same issues, though (correct me if I'm wrong).
      Been checking with the dealers, it seems Honda foot shift models are scarce. I really don't need devices/gadgets to decide which gear I need to be in. So I'm avoiding the DCT models. I must have IRS and EPS because of my age and physical condition though.
      Is it possible to get a Rancher with IRS, EPS and foot shift? The specs I'm reading show the rancher is 2" lower than the Rubicon. I'm assuming that to be seat height. With vertical cylinder design, the more you grow the engine, the higher you push the seat....at least that's my thinking.
      Any comments from the Honda experienced?
  • Similar Tagged Content

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...