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Update and a question


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Hey everyone, here is an update. I have my new atv battery in and it's fully charged and installed. I have my new hi/lo range knob in that was missing. The ignition is the original one so my new OEM switch will be in Thursday or Friday. I have an original LT-F230 service manual. It gives all the colors of all the wires but does not say which are hot and which are ground. Here are pics of the front cover and the wiring page. Can anyone lead me in the right direction? I want to see if I have fire to the ignition switch.
I do have a multi meter

IMG_20201216_162345.jpg

IMG_20201216_162408.jpg

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On the switch diagrams  the  O  denotes the connected wires. For example n the ignition switch  when  off the black/yellow trace wires are connected,  On  and it's the red and orange and in the light position it is the red, orange and Gray  wires .  The red wire would be the one  with the  power. The others would show no voltage  unless connected to the red.  None of them  go to ground. The red wire  is "hot"   the other wires go to the ignition to  run the quad and to  the lighting circuit.

In the  stop switch and the start  switch push button when  off the B/W  and B/Y  wires are connected, on run  it's the O  and O/W.  The  O would have  power on it when the ignition is on  and the red wire is connected to the  Orange at the ignition switch. When you go to  start the  O/W  wire  also connects to the  Y/G  to  give the  spark and extra boos for starting.

The only wire that is connected directly to the  power is the red wire. The others all go  to  other  circuits  to connect  power to them.

 

Edited by davefrombc
typos
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Check for power at the red wire connection at the ignition switch. If none , run a  test wire directly from the battery to the  red  wire  connection at the ignition switch. When you have it connected you should have  power on the system. Then  check to see if you  have that power  back to the red wire at the  plug at the start relay.  If there is then you know the problem  is right there. in that white plug or its socket.

\

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@davefrombc @BillyBlast01 Dave I ran a power check on the red wire an had NO power from the battery to the switch. It's so cold here today but should be in the 50's by Saturday. I will run the test wire from the battery then and start back tracing and see where it stops at. Thanks for the info and will keep you updated as I move forward. My new OEM switch will be here hopefully tomorrow or Saturday. 

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@davefrombc I hear that, I drove semi's for 15 years and I've been to Vancouver and Ottowa and Thunder Bay. Ottowa and Thunder Bay are in Ontario. They always sent me because I would chain up and keep it moving as long as the roads were not closed. Here in the Ozark Mountains of Arkansas it's usually in the 40's and 50's for highs. Don't get me wrong we do see some low single digits sometimes but not every year. Last night it was 18 degrees here and is supposed to be in the low 50's for our high tomorrow. It's supposed to be 24 tonight. 

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@davefrombc here is a question for you. I have a multi meter you already know that. I'm not an electrician but I do know how to do my own wiring. I have a circuit tester tracer and it also checks continuity. I should be able to connect to the hotwire at the ignition plug with my sending unit and trace the signal from the sending unit until it stops beeping. As long as the wire is dead it won't damage my sending unit. I will take the fenders off tomorrow and trace it that way and I will also trace with the jump wire like you explained to me. Do you think it could be the neutral safety switch went out? Doesn't everything go dead at that point? And can I check the neutral safety switch to see if it's bad? 

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The neutral safety switch only stops the starter from running . It does not stop anything else.  With the motor off but ignition switch on lights would still  work. I don't know how your tracer would work as I have never used one , but I thought they work on AC only rather than on AC  and DC . It is not the neutral safety switch or any other safety switch killing the system.   You have no power to the ignition switch. If running a wire directly to the red wire connection  turns on the lights when switch is on it is the hot wire from battery to that switch , You then  just need to  physically trace that wire back from the switch to the battery 

 

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@davefrombc Ok great news on the neutral safety switch thanks for that info. My new ignition will be in tomorrow. As for the tracer no Dave they work on any electric wire as long as there is no electricity on in that wire. You hook the hot clamp to the wire to be traced. You hook the black wire to a ground and turn the sending unit on. It sends a signal down the wire being traced. You take the tracing probe and turn it on then run the probe end along the wiring harness. It will be making a beeping sound. When the beeping stops that is where the wire goes dead. But I will do the jump wire first to see if the headlight works when the key is on and the jump wire is hooked up. Thanks for all the info man. I will keep you updated. 

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@davefrombc Man I got the fenders off today and made a jumpwire and the red wire in the green plug is corroded completely in to. I started looking at other plugs and the same thing. Is that the problem? I don't know but I'm going to replace the wiring harness just to be sure. Once the fenders were off I also noticed some old oil leaks and it's been leaking for a while. I don't know if or when the oil and filter was changed last. But that's what happens when you get a free quad lol. It will run again I just don't know when. One step at a time...

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+The corrosion is the most likely  cause of the failure.  Did you run a wire  from the battery anode directly to the ignition switch? It should have allowed it to  power up.  Another fellow  had  a similar problem with his Yamaha Beartracker.  Running the wire  from the battery to the  switch  allowed everything to  power up for him,

You might get away with just replacing some plugs and sockets rather than the  whole harness.  It might be  hard finding one for your quad .

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@davefrombc yes I ran the hot wire that's when I found the red wire on the green ignition plug on the harness side corroded and broken at the plug I could not get any power anyway I tried to get it to power up. I then looked the harness over back to the battery and found other wires corroded and broken in the big white plug and the red wire on the assembly fuse box (2 15Amp) was broken and taped. I found a used harness guaranteed for $49 american with free shipping and a new Suzuki fuse box because the one on it is broken and taped as well as the fuse box is corroded inside and dirt filled.  That's where I'm at at this time. 

Edited by BillyBlast01
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@davefrombc I didn't pull start it. It was running when my brother parked it but he was having trouble with it starting. I tried the electric start and it turned over a few turns and everything died. No power to the lights or neutral safety light, it just died. So now I'm doing one step at a time. As for the Harness I so too. Thanks for all the info will keep you updated

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I  confused you with the fellow with the Bear Tracker. . LOL. . He  had a similar  problem.. He  was able to  start his quad  by turning the ignition on and  jumpering the  starter solenoid terminals or by pull starting it . . No  power to the  ignition switch.  Running a wire from the battery to the ignition switch worked for him . Now   all he has to  do  is trace the red wire back from  his ignition switch to the battery to see where the trouble lies.

 

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