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My new quad fell apart


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Lol yeah think those tires will hold air???  Thinking my first and most important issue is going to be chewed up wireing!!!  Is there an easy way to replace the essential electronic components and "hotwire" it so I can cut out alot of possible issue to just see if it will run? 

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Yeah if you wired up the ignition unit and the triggering coil in the stator and the ignition coil it would go with a kick or a jump onto the starter, but it's quite a few wires and probably best to just repair or replace the wiring.

Are the wires actually chewed, like a rat maybe ? If not I'd probably just check the wiring and repair the wires that are actually broken or shorted, soldering new lengths of wire in if needed. If it is rats, well they can actually eat the copper.. haha. And.. they have a nibble here and a nibble there and you end up repairing it all over, then it's best to strip the loom and run new wires.

Get a manual(I've attached one), then use a multimeter with a buzzer and following the diagram check each wire from one end to the other for continuity. Check the loom for wear on the insulation and tape up any potential shorts. If there are breaks in the wires it will probably be at their ends, where they go into the plugs or terminals. You can get new terminals if you shop around, an auto electrician or electronics shop or.. R.S. Online.. R.S. Online has just about every type of terminal, and plug. You can sometimes pinpoint the break by gently wriggling/bending the wire, mainly at their ends where they are out of the loom, and if the wire's broken inside the insulation it will be extra flexible where the break is. Wires hardly ever break inside the loom, except very occasionally at places where they bend, such as where they go to the handlebars, or go into the stator.

Get a roll of electrical tape and someone to give you a hand, and have the friend hold one end of the loom while you strech it out and rewrap the tape, keep the tape tight and stretch it on and it will come out like new.

Honda Trx_300_Fourtrax_300_Service_Repair_Manual_1988-1994.pdf

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hey man thanks for the help here.  I didn't even think about a continuity test on the wires.  My main part that I am seeing that is bad is the wires as they go into the plugs in the battery compartment.  I can definitely splice in and repair broken wires, but my main concern is the wires as they go into plugs.  Finding what type of plug and things can be a nightmare to replace. 

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The plastic part of the plug can probably be used again, but if they are damaged you can buy them with a bit of hunting around. And the terminals that go on the wires and into those plugs are real common and any decent auto electrical shop should be able to sell you those. The terminals have some sort of tag, either metal on the terminal, or plastic on the plug, that hold them in. If you look in the front and back of the plug you will see which sort. Use a tiny blade like a screwdriver to flatten/push aside the tag and pull the terminals out towards the wire.

https://nz.rs-online.com/web/   Theses guys are in aussie, they have everything.. But there will be someone like it in US..

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Well after soaking for a weak I finely went nuclear with my carb.  My choke plunger was frozen in the carb, and when I tried to pull it out I broke off the ears for the choke cable.  Soaking didn’t to anything for me so we got serious. I ended up drilling and tapping it with a 6/32 tap and a home built slide hammer.  Results are as such!!!!  
 

 

victory!!!

0343FF0D-8FAE-4230-9C1C-E159FBFC1652.jpeg

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Ha. good for you man. Perseverance always wins. Giving up never does.

Those choke plungers don't get used often and do tend to seize up. I've freed a few up by using a 6mm flat ended engineers punch, and a light hammer(about the weight of an eight inch cresent), and tapping along the bit of the choke housing that's formed as a tube. Most of the plunger's cylinder is formed in solid casting, but on one side the cylinder wall's thin. You tap back and forwards along the length of that thin part and it expands the cylinder wall, making the cylinder slightly larger, and letting crc soak in. Then use a small screwdriver to carefully rotate the plunger. You have to be careful in rotating it because the plunger, which is slotted across, can spay apart and jam tighter into the cylinder. If it does do that though you can use long nosed pliers to squeeze it together again. They are really soft steel. I can generally get the plungers out and freed up and good to go again with that process..

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