Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV or UTV? Join our Forum!

    Join QUADCRAZY ATV Forum today for FREE! We keep these forums clean and user friendly. All first posters will have to wait to have their content reviewed and approved. Once your first post is approved, you will no longer need to got through an approval process. To gain immediate approval and a NO ADS experience, consider subsribing to our Premium Membership.

86 LT230 quadrunner getting to much air


tjakes680
 Share

Go to solution Solved by tjakes680,

Recommended Posts

I have a 1986 LT230GE quadrunner shaft drive machine ran very good up till about 2 months ago I rebuilt carb and had to much air coming in I found it was a loose duct then I relized throtle cable was getting stuck so I changed that . Now again to much air everything is tight no leaks in ducts from what i see Infact I had another OEM carb I rebuilt and put that on just incase i messed up rebuild of first carb and same problem the only way I can get it to stop racing is blocking off the white long air box that goes from air filter to under dash board in fact when I pull up choke it will slow down when i block air box . Does it sound like a duct is leaking the white air box goes into a leather bag i guess thats a filter but its doesnt seem to do much and the air fuel mixture and idle screw are basically useless on carb ! Should I possibly change the hight of needle in carb to give it more fuel but will that fix the problem ? Im at witts end any suggestions will be apriciated and helpful im going to seal all duct joints tommorw but should i block off the main air vent (white one ) its more of a band aide fix I would really want to fix it right thanks 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 35
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well... Is this a diaphragm carby or an old fashioned one with the throttle cable going straight onto the slide ?

If you throttle on and then off quickly with the engine turned off, can you hear the throttle clack back against it's stopper ? What's the idle mixture problem, seized screw or damaged so the screwdriver doesn't engage ? If you are sure the throttle is closing right off, and it races, it might be just the idle mixture. The needle in the slide only effects from 1/8 throttle and up, so it shouldn't be the problem. The only place an air leak in would effect things is if it's between the carby and the engine, on that rubber manifold.. which can get old and cracked when you work on them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Mech said:

Well... Is this a diaphragm carby or an old fashioned one with the throttle cable going straight onto the slide ?

If you throttle on and then off quickly with the engine turned off, can you hear the throttle clack back against it's stopper ? What's the idle mixture problem, seized screw or damaged so the screwdriver doesn't engage ? If you are sure the throttle is closing right off, and it races, it might be just the idle mixture. The needle in the slide only effects from 1/8 throttle and up, so it shouldn't be the problem. The only place an air leak in would effect things is if it's between the carby and the engine, on that rubber manifold.. which can get old and cracked when you work on them.

Its a mikuni round slide im almost 100% the slide is going all the way down im going to change the fuel mixture screw thanks for reply im going to look into the flange where carb hooks up it is pretty old 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Mech said:

So a mikuni without a diaphram .. the cable goes straight to the slide ?

Yes im pretty sure its sliding all the way to bottom i will test it today

Im also will take some pictures today maybe it will help

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, Mech said:

Well... Is this a diaphragm carby or an old fashioned one with the throttle cable going straight onto the slide ?

If you throttle on and then off quickly with the engine turned off, can you hear the throttle clack back against it's stopper ? What's the idle mixture problem, seized screw or damaged so the screwdriver doesn't engage ? If you are sure the throttle is closing right off, and it races, it might be just the idle mixture. The needle in the slide only effects from 1/8 throttle and up, so it shouldn't be the problem. The only place an air leak in would effect things is if it's between the carby and the engine, on that rubber manifold.. which can get old and cracked when you work on them.

Is it possible that the top of cylinder haad could be pulling in air ? There is deff alot of old crudded up oil and gunk on it im going to dig into it today, im going to dissconect throtle cable and see if it will start with slide all the way down and ill know for certain it is if its still racing i can then say possible air leak i have chked every possible spot on air box and air lines i just dont see any cracks and ill chk boot that carb hooks into engine with its deff old but seems ok .I know its a easy overlooked simple fix but its so hard to find Like i said if I block off air  case intake it seems to work fine but what would cause this to change from never being blocked off ? Here is a blue print of air intakes 

4ADA66D7-C92F-46E4-9DAF-C4E3901FAD07.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Went back at it today slide is going down all the way had it good for about 1 hour and then it started riving high again i checked all air lines ducts couldnt see any visible tears or cracks I did howere seal one duct that comes out of air box i believe it was glued in from factory looked fo have a gap but i couldnt seal intire joint to tight to get bottom I may get a new air box saw one on ebay for 30$ its worth a shot. I just dont know where this air is coming in from Does anyone know of a way to check for a leak on air box ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it's sucking air in from anywhere before the carby, it will just mix that air with the air going through the air cleaner, and not do anything.. except let dust in ..haha.

If it had a big air leak after the carby, between the carby and the engine, it should just run lean, or not run at all.. It would only make it race if it was also getting more fuel than it's meant to.

I've seen them race when the idle mixture screw was set wrong. So... is the idle mixture screw near the engine or near the aircleaner end of the carby ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Mech said:

If it's sucking air in from anywhere before the carby, it will just mix that air with the air going through the air cleaner, and not do anything.. except let dust in ..haha.

If it had a big air leak after the carby, between the carby and the engine, it should just run lean, or not run at all.. It would only make it race if it was also getting more fuel than it's meant to.

I've seen them race when the idle mixture screw was set wrong. So... is the idle mixture screw near the engine or near the aircleaner end of the carby ?

Neear engine side it just revs so high im going to spray some carb cleaner or starter fluid by boot going into engine it has to be leaking there i would think

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Mech said:

If it's sucking air in from anywhere before the carby, it will just mix that air with the air going through the air cleaner, and not do anything.. except let dust in ..haha.

If it had a big air leak after the carby, between the carby and the engine, it should just run lean, or not run at all.. It would only make it race if it was also getting more fuel than it's meant to.

I've seen them race when the idle mixture screw was set wrong. So... is the idle mixture screw near the engine or near the aircleaner end of the carby ?

So basically what ur saying is engine side air leak is only way it will affect idle speed ? I actually had it running ok and seemed a little fast but then it went off once i hooked up throtle cable to thortle so i dont know if i moved the carb its on very tight the carb so i dont think itll move I also have a bigger clap on engine side of carb maybe its too tight and cutting into boot so hard to tell .Its so bad fuel air screw is basically useless manual says 2-3/8 ths turns but that seems like alot on fuel air screw i will spray boot with some starteer fluid and maybe ill see if it leaks Thanks for ur help its a very time consuming and fustrating process 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah that's right mate.. air getting in before the carby is just more air.. it gets all the air it needs anyway through the aircleaner so a bit more unfiltered air makes no difference.

Starter fluid is a good way of finding leaks. Try that around the manifold.

If you wind the idle speed screw right out the slide should go right down and clack on the carby body, if you then screw the screw in you should be able to hear a different sound as the slide lands on the screw. If you make sure the slide  is going right down every time that would be a good start. Then wind it back out till the slide's sitting on the carby body. Then, wind the idle mixture screw right in, gently so you don't damage the screw or seat, and it should not run at idle at all. Start it up with a bit of throttle and see whether it dies right back to stopped when you throttle right off. If it does die then, then wind the idle speed in a turn or two and wind the mixture screw out a couple of turns. After that you wind the speed up till it will idle, then adjust the mixture till it runs at the highest revs it will, then adjust the speed either up or down as needed, then the mixture in or out to give the highest revs it will do at that speed setting. Keep doing those two adjustments till you get it at the highest revs it will with the least amount of slide lift. If it will idle, wind the mixture screw in and out to find the highest revs, then wind it in slowly till the revs just start to drop.. That's called best lean mixture and is where it should be when hot.

If those adjustments don't work, then you must have done something wrong in the rebuild. Perhaps the slide needle is in the wrong place, or the float level's to high, or the choke mechanism isn't operating properly.. Is the choke a butterfly, or a plunger ? If it's a plunger, check it's going right in.

It all started since the carby work, so it's either a bad(very rich) mixture combined with an air leak, or something wrong with the carby work.

Try those checks and adjustments, especially the slide going right down, and for an air leak around the manifold, and let us know how it goes.

Perseverance always wins.. giving up never does..  You'll win.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Mech said:

Yeah that's right mate.. air getting in before the carby is just more air.. it gets all the air it needs anyway through the aircleaner so a bit more unfiltered air makes no difference.

Starter fluid is a good way of finding leaks. Try that around the manifold.

If you wind the idle speed screw right out the slide should go right down and clack on the carby body, if you then screw the screw in you should be able to hear a different sound as the slide lands on the screw. If you make sure the slide  is going right down every time that would be a good start. Then wind it back out till the slide's sitting on the carby body. Then, wind the idle mixture screw right in, gently so you don't damage the screw or seat, and it should not run at idle at all. Start it up with a bit of throttle and see whether it dies right back to stopped when you throttle right off. If it does die then, then wind the idle speed in a turn or two and wind the mixture screw out a couple of turns. After that you wind the speed up till it will idle, then adjust the mixture till it runs at the highest revs it will, then adjust the speed either up or down as needed, then the mixture in or out to give the highest revs it will do at that speed setting. Keep doing those two adjustments till you get it at the highest revs it will with the least amount of slide lift. If it will idle, wind the mixture screw in and out to find the highest revs, then wind it in slowly till the revs just start to drop.. That's called best lean mixture and is where it should be when hot.

If those adjustments don't work, then you must have done something wrong in the rebuild. Perhaps the slide needle is in the wrong place, or the float level's to high, or the choke mechanism isn't operating properly.. Is the choke a butterfly, or a plunger ? If it's a plunger, check it's going right in.

It all started since the carby work, so it's either a bad(very rich) mixture combined with an air leak, or something wrong with the carby work.

Try those checks and adjustments, especially the slide going right down, and for an air leak around the manifold, and let us know how it goes.

Perseverance always wins.. giving up never does..  You'll win.

Thank u my friend I deff will say choke is working and slide is going down I actually used 2 diffrent carbs and they both do the same.The only thing I may have done wrong  but i dont think so is the mixture screw in manual showed screw spring rubber seat metal washer and what I always knew and have done is screw spring metal washer and rubber seat But thats how I have rebuilt every carb I appricaite ur help and will post when im done I will get it sorrted out thanks again my friend

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's no trouble, these things can be frustrating. Even mechanics get frustrated, and often it turns out to be the simplest thing. Sometimes we walk away and have a coffee and when we come back everything just falls into place. You sound experienced and competent, you'll get it.

I've been assuming that you've checked any vacuum hoses it has...

Well if both carbies did it, and you say it was going right for a bit till you refitted the throttle cable perhaps it's just the cable ? Frayed wire in there perhaps ? No free play, routed wrong so it gets pulled when the bars are turned .. If you leave the cable off, and the duct from the aircleaner, then you could use a small screwdriver to operate the slide from the back, to test it's dropping properly when there's vacuum on it.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, Mech said:

That's no trouble, these things can be frustrating. Even mechanics get frustrated, and often it turns out to be the simplest thing. Sometimes we walk away and have a coffee and when we come back everything just falls into place. You sound experienced and competent, you'll get it.

I've been assuming that you've checked any vacuum hoses it has...

Well if both carbies did it, and you say it was going right for a bit till you refitted the throttle cable perhaps it's just the cable ? Frayed wire in there perhaps ? No free play, routed wrong so it gets pulled when the bars are turned .. If you leave the cable off, and the duct from the aircleaner, then you could use a small screwdriver to operate the slide from the back, to test it's dropping properly when there's vacuum on it.

 

So I used the starter fluid on boot idle speed went up even higher so i asume there is a leak  now on the boot is a nipple that pulls vacume for fuel pump witch i just installed a used fuel pump a month ago , when i pull that line off and put my finger over the nipple idle slows down a measurable amount till it runs out of fuel , so i tryed a new line to fuel pump same problem is it possible the fuel pump could have a small leak or a small vacumn leak in one of the lines coming off it and thats pulling to much air or is putting my finger over it just blocking more air so itll slow anyway ,but again the starter fluid deffintly sped up idle when sprayed on boot . My next problem lol is screws holding boot ofcourse have chewed up heads lol im going spray liqud wrench hopefully they come out without having to score them with dremal ughhhhh I deff know slide is good and working and boot has leak somewhere ! I think its around the nipple where vacumn goes 

Getting closer!!!!!!!!!!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So I started the whole process over and took it all apart took out and installed new fuel mix screw and it ran great for about 10 min or so i mean absolutly perfect no backfire no pop no high idle maybe about 15 -20 min and wharn it got warmed up and hot it started high idle all over again I would think the rubber boot heated up and expanded and started leaking because when its cold i can get it running perfect once heated up no good so time to find a boot on ebay 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just ordered new intake boot for engine sode with new bolts and ordered a aftermarket carb 40$ just to give it a shot but im almost 100% my carbs are good but ill do the boot and take it from there ill post what happens when boot is installed 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good work.. The thing about things like this is that we have to be methodical, and really thorough.. we have to know absolutely that the first thing we checked really is right before we go doing any more steps.. otherwise we end up going around in circles..  Probably is a small split underneath somewhere you can't see. If you suck on that vacuum hose going to the pump it should build up vacuum and not keep flowing air.

After you've fixed the rest adjust the mixture to best lean and it should be right.

Good luck with the bolts on the manifold. Sometimes giving them a tap with a hammer and punch on top to spread the hex out a little works, and it lets the spray get down the threads.. and single hex sockets are good for rounded bolts. That manifold probably has an O ring between it and the head.. best change that too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Mech said:

Good work.. The thing about things like this is that we have to be methodical, and really thorough.. we have to know absolutely that the first thing we checked really is right before we go doing any more steps.. otherwise we end up going around in circles..  Probably is a small split underneath somewhere you can't see. If you suck on that vacuum hose going to the pump it should build up vacuum and not keep flowing air.

After you've fixed the rest adjust the mixture to best lean and it should be right.

Good luck with the bolts on the manifold. Sometimes giving them a tap with a hammer and punch on top to spread the hex out a little works, and it lets the spray get down the threads.. and single hex sockets are good for rounded bolts. That manifold probably has an O ring between it and the head.. best change that too.

Yes i also ordered a new oring new bolts but noone has a new boot had to get a used one but from a place I buy alot of used parts from they chk parts and rebuild some so should be good thanks again ill post final results should have all parts by Feb 2-5 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Ok so I finally have a day with out freezing temps so going back at it again . I have a new boot ( used but looks good ) and a new round gaskit for inside boot a new OEM carb ( again a rebuild) all new fuel and vent lines a used air container the one on front of quad( the long white one )  not the air box a new air fiter for the long white vent  piece air container I believe its called all new clamps for vent ducts to air box and used but in great shape air ducts So basically rebuilding the fuel and vent systems on quad I will post results after this im out of options but going into this with a positve additude !!!!!!!  Ohh and not forget new throtle cable lol 

Edited by tjakes680
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Similar Topics

    • By denno
      Greetings.  We just got this from my sister-in-law.  (Bet she doesn't know, either!)
      First the battery was wimpy.  I discovered this battery needs to be filled (hadn't seen such in decades), and that NAPA sells the acid. 
      Now feels like it's not getting enough gas to catch.  Added gas.  No change.  I would normally now try the choke, or starter fluid in the intake.  Cannot find those!  Cannot find a diagram.  Oy!

      Can you quit laughing long enough to help, please?

      Thanx
       
    • By Quarterthor
      2000 Suzuki Quadrunner 500

      In repairing what I thought was a front differential failure I've come to realize its time for new tires. I bought this thing new, when I was in 8th grade (via an agreement with my dad and being the groundskeeper at our church). By far, the most reliable machine I've ever owned. It's had a "bigfoot" kit since its first winter. It's time to replace the original 23 year old Highlifter Outlaw tires.

      I want something close in capability but a little smoother, easier to steer and less slippery on dry, hard trails. I don't seek out mud holes anymore but I will hit them if I find one.

      The current tires are 28x10.5-12 up front and 28x12.5-12 in the rear. I want to stay close to that size and I'm looking for opinions.

      I've got it narrowed down to:

      ITP Mega Mayhem 28x9-12 & 28x11-12 @ $724
      Maxxis Zilla 28x10-12 & 28x12-12 @ $648
      ITP Mud Lite XL 28x10-12 & 28x12-12 @ $702
      SunF A050 Mud & Trail 28x10-12 & 28x12-12 @ $592

      I like the look of the Mega Mayhem but they come in at 1" narrower all around. Do you guys feel like this different would be a big deal?

      Any experience with the SunF? The are almost identical in appearance to the Mud Lite.

      Looking for any help in narrowing this down.

      Thanks
    • By olddude
      I just bought a KingQuad and it seems I am the third owner. The guy I got it from said it was a 2008, 400. When I first looked at it I could tell the machine had, had a pretty rough life. The plastics were all wire tied together and a lot of it was missing all together. I wasn't to worried about the plastic, that is until I checked the prices on that stuff.LOL I was more worried about the nuts and bolts than the plastic. Actually the bike was in pretty good shape mechanically and I could tell the original owner, although he ran the pure living crap out of it he did replace stuff when it broke. I could see that all the CV shafts had been replaced and both drive shafts had new boots on them. The suspention was all tight and according to the guy I bought it from the guy told him that he had gone through the motor. I drove it around his yard and everything worked but the brakes, there was none at all, but it had plenty of pep and no smoke so I pulled out 28 hunnard dollar bills and waved them before his eyes and he forgot all about the $3200.00 he was asking and away I went.
      He gave me a box of parts the guy gave him that had a new CV shaft, a tie rod shaft, a oil filter and two sets of brake pads which was a plus. Oh and I also liked the fairly new wheels and mud tires that were on it. When I got home the first thing I did was to make a list of some things I wanted to replace. I especially didn't like the front fender and the side plastic pieces and also I wanted to get a service manual. I got on line and found a 2008 400 manual and I bought it for $22.00. AS soon as I downloaded the manual I knew something was wrong. First was the rear brakes. The 400's had brake shoe's and this bike has that newer brake system that's on the front of the rear differential. Also there was no FI on the 08 400 So I got to looking some more and I saw that there was a 450 that was a limited addition that year which had that braking system so I ordered one of those.
      Once I downloaded that one I could see there were more things that were different so I'm back to square one. Then I decided to try and find the serial no, which I probably should have done to start with but you know how it is. The guy I got it from said he didn't use it but a couple times to pull deer out of the woods but where he was at there was some of the worst mud I have ever seen......Oh did I mention that he said he never did anything to it but put gas in it, that I truly believe. I took it out side and started to get the mud off so I could find the serial number. Three hours later of scraping, brushing and finally pressure washing the frame I could see paint. The number wasn't where I was told it would be and another hour gone with a magnafying glass I finally found the number. It was close to where it was supposed to be but I couldn't see it. I finally took a tooth brush and rubbed the area and finally I found it. 
      Did I mention that before that a nice guy over on another site told me it might be a 500 because they did have a 500 FI in 08 so I got one of those too but it too was off a little. Well I wrote the number down an went in to do a search and the first one came up serial not found. The next one the same thing so back out to look again and what I looked at was right so back to the house to try again. The third check came back a 2011 500 x something. I tried several more search sites and they all came up with the same thing. Now the next thing that I'm wondering and probably worries me the most........How in the hell could someone rebuild an engine that was supposed to be a 400 when it's actually a 500.
      I checked the air filter and that was one of the first things that I found strange. The 400's had a front mounted foam filter and this one was top mounted. When I finally found it it looked to me that it had never been cleaned lor replaced I guess everybody was looking for a foam filter and never looked in the filter box on top. I ordered a K&N filter but that thing don't seem to fit right. when the filter screw is all the way tight there is a small gap at the top and the filter can be moved side to side and you can grab it on top and the whole thing will turn. Let's see three service manuals and a $60..00 air filter and I still don't have anything, what have I done?
       
    • By timberwolf357
      I've got an 88 suzuki quadrunner lt4wd 250 . I'm rebuilding the top end and can't find anywhere how to set the timing. Does anyone know where I can find this information or know how to set it ?
    • eManualOnline
    • By Rich1028
      Air Time at Silver Lake 4-23-2022
       
       
  • Gallery Images

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...