2000 Yamaha Warrior 350 No Spark

[oakleyf]

can someone please help me out with a problem i am having with my 2000 yamaha warrior 350 it started and ran before i changed the harness and the stater now i can not get any spark at all and i also changed the coil thanks in advance   

Edited October 31, 2022 by Admin
Moved Status Update to a New Forum Topic

[Savage3]

Did it have a pulse coil?

You would have seen it when you changed the stator.

[Savage3]

The little gadget top right of photo.

What clearance did you use?

[Mech]

Did you compare the old and new wiring harness ? They might have the pins in different positions in the plugs..

[oakleyf]

yes i checked them they all where the same as the old one thanks

[Savage3]

Ok, so ya need a service manual for specifications or Google air gap on Pulsar for your model. 

Set gap to specification, then check for spark.

It should be about.020 inches or so, but, I'd use service manual specs.

Let us know if there are more issues.

[Savage3]

You can download manual from manualslib. 

Some models have a fixed pulse coil. Get the manual, it will take you through the troubleshooting process step by step.

[Mech]

 

There are also 1998 and 2002 manuals there if there isn't the one.

 

[Mech]

And yeah.. Savage's right, that air gap is pretty critical. Apart from effecting the production of a spark, it also effects your timing and your timing advance..

Edited November 1, 2022 by Mech

[Gwbarm]

If this is aftermarket, I would double check that its wired like the old one, not all aftermarket is plug and play I found out recently. 

[Savage3]

GW and Mech's posts are critically important. 

Example: 

The aftermarket harness could have same wire colors, but, be wired differently.

If you had spark prior to harness replacement, then the problem is most likely within the harness connections.

Ya can't cheat it or assume anything. Trace your steps backwards. Use the manual for testing each component in the ignition system. 

[Mech]

Oakely.. You did mean just the harness attached to the stator did you, not the whole bike's wiring harness ?

And, if it was just the stator harness, check the bike wiring  where the harness connects to the stator wiring for broken wires. Handling things might have been the last straw for a fragile wire in the wiring.. The wires can break inside the insulation, generally right where they connect to the terminals. Gently flex each wire feeling for resistant from the copper.. Plastic insulation bends easy, copper doesn't.

[oakleyf]

I changed the whole wiring and put a new stater in it the only reason I changed the wiring harness is because it was all chopped up and started with a push button and now I have these issues I guess I should have just left it alone cause it did run 

 

[Mech]

Oh ok..  And the "new" loom, was  second hand I suppose ?

That makes it a bit of a wildcard..  Hmmm.

Well I really think you should double check that the two looms are identical. As has been said, they could have different pin placements in the plugs, and they might even be differently wired. Different years and/or different markets can and often do use different wiring, and components, and sometimes at first glance they seem the same, colours  perhaps, but not the pins, and sometimes the pins are in the same places, but connected to different wires.. Check the pin places and what colour they are connected to.

Then, recheck the earth and power connections are good, wriggle wires where they go into the plugs/terminals feeling for broken copper..  Start with the ignition, earth and power wires that run the ignition system. Perhaps disconnect the kill wire from the cdi if that's possible, to eliminate switches or shorts inside the new loom.