Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV or UTV? Join our Forum!

    Join QUADCRAZY ATV Forum today for FREE! We keep these forums clean and user friendly. All first posters will have to wait to have their content reviewed and approved. Once your first post is approved, you will no longer need to got through an approval process. To gain immediate approval and a NO ADS experience, consider subsribing to our Premium Membership.

reverse safety switch for 2000 honda trx300ex question


Recommended Posts

Looking at the schematic, it looks to me like if the switch were to go open/bad, it would break the ground connection to the CDI box? If that were to happen, that would cause a no spark condition Can anyone confirm this? At this time, no spark is my problem and measures 0 volts to the cdi box? Thanks 🙂

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I removed the wire from the switch, and grounded it. There's still no voltage to the ICM/CDI so I assume, there must be an open circuit in that ground wire. I'm going to run a bypass wire in the morning and see if I get spark/start. Hopefully, I can just do that. The reverse lever and cable were not on it anyway when I got it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you are getting no power to CDI there is a fuse and 2 switches to stop power from getting there check from BL/W to battery neg and see if you get power there check continuity from reverse switch connector to CDI . If you said reverse switch is broken just replace it and cable or if you want to get it running first just ground the GR wire. Just my thoughts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The ICM is grounded by the G/W wire going to the stator's housing. The GR wire going to the reverse switch won't be needed to make it run.

It does need the Bl/W 12 volt wire, and he stator wire and the trigger wire.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, that's what that diagram is showing.

You should check the engine is connected to the battery's earth as well.. battery, frame and engine all need to be connected as a common earth. Then the ICM earths via the G/W wire to the engine through the stator's housing..

Edited by Mech
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The one labeled G/W. And yeah, going to the stator housing, that's what that circle is, the dot means there is a connection, and those stacks of short lines all along the bottom of the diagram are the symbol for earth.. so everything that has that earth sign all have to be connected, the engine, frame, battery negative, coil, reverse switch. If the reverse switch and the trigger coil only have one wire then they are earthed internally to the engine.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, so test from the ICM black/white wire to a good earth on the engine first, and then on the battery's negative terminal, and see if you get 12 volts both places.. with both key and run switches on. If it doesn't get 12v on the engine, but it does on the battery negative, then the engine needs a wire connecting it to the negative. If you can't get 12v on the B/W wire using either earth, then you need to check the fuse and both switches are getting power through them.

If/when you do get 12 volt from the B/W wire using the engine for an earth, but the G/W wire still doesn't work as an earth, then the problem is that the green/white wire isn't getting to earth as it should down on the stator housing..

Edited by Mech
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you have a test light with a bulb in it, use that looking for the power and the earths.. It can happen that a bad connection is letting a tiny mount of power through, or providing a tiny amount of earth, and that tiny amount of power is enough to make the gauge go, but as soon as the load comes on that bad connection it fails to let enough power through and so it looks dead..  The bulb in the test light draws enough power so we don't get tricked by the bad connection.

The starter needs a good supply and earth so the engine should have either a big earth cable, or the engine is mounted solidly to the frame..

If the starter operates, the engine is earthed.. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good morning folks, I ran bypass wire for ground to CDI box. Well, I'm getting spark now but still no start. The engine for some reason seems to crank a lot faster than before it seemed like it struggled before like it had a lot more to turn over. any ideas what could be going on now?  Thanks! 😒

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good work so far..

So, it could be that the engine is trying to run and that's why it's sounding fast..  Do you think it's firing at all ? Did it use to go, before the loss of spark ? Have you tried kick starting it ? Did it seem like it had compression ?

Probably you should try to check it has compression. If you don't have a gauge take the spark plug out, put your finger in the spark plug hole and crank the engine over. If you can keep your finger in the hole it doesn't have enough compression. If your finger gets lifted and the air escapes it's probably enough.. depending how tough or woosy your fingers are..haha.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it's a bad one way bearing, can it be push started? I checked for spark and it's good now. If the one way bearing couldn't cause this problem, I guess I'll have to check for compression.


I'll have to get a wrench of some kind for the spark plug any suggestions?



Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Filthy_Mule777
      I'm currently pulling my hair out over a customers 98  bayou 2x4 KLF300b. I've changed every electrical component on it twice and in a couple instances three times. Still no spark, I am baffled. Initially customer brought it to me complaining of a hard start no start situation and in fact, it wouldn't start. I changed the starter relay, spark plug,  CDI box, and starter circuit relay after which it fired right up ran very well but then started having issues with the neutral switch/light where it wouldn't come on and wouldn't allow it start or even turn over. I found in the wiring harness a loose connection, I got it taken care of and secured and that solved the problem. So now that it would crank up again and run fine I called the customer over to test it out see what he thought as I've never heard it run before and I wanted to get his opinion on how it was running. Customer ride it around a little bit pulled it back on my carport and turned the key off and said it was great, and had never ran better or started so easily, then we set up a time for him to come pick it up the following day and he left. Well where he pulled it on my carport and shut it off was in the middle of the carport so I jumped back on it to park it off to the side,  crank it up no problems put it in reverse went about maybe 18 inches and it stalled and ever since that point it has not had spark or run. I replaced the CDI box again with a better brand, I replaced the ignition coil twice put another starter relay on it and I've also changed out the stater and the pick up coil (pick up coil twice) and I'm just I'm lost I don't know what else to do to it. I've had this customers  four wheeler for four months now whereas he's a patient guy I need to get it out of here so I can move on to something else. I've seen dozens of threads across  different sites for off-road, 4 wheelers, ATVs, UTV's, whatever and they are all experiencing the same sort of issue but they never ever post hear the problem was or  the fix. So I'm hoping somebody here has a little bit of knowledge on this particular issue sent since it seems to be so widespread.  Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions.
    • By Params_sweden
      Hi, I have an EU '94 KLF300 Bayou with ignition issues. I got it last summer and used it for about 20 hours, then one sunny day we used it for about an hour, parked it, and then it didn't want to start again. It has a *really* weak spark, I've only been able to see it once while testing. 
      I'm just getting started on this, I'm going to go through all the weak/no spark trouble shootings from the manual. Since I've already invested like 10 hours digesting the manual and forum threads that I possibly can, I thought that it would be nice to create a thread like this in case I come up with a solution that can help someone else.
      So far I've replaced the spark plug, I will replace the spark plug cap with a NGK VD05F (5kOhm resistance). I'm going to check the resistance in the pickup coil, stator coil and ignition coil next. I have tried two CDIs, right now I mounted the original CDI which actually gave the most output to the spark plug out of the two
      A question for you, is it possible to make any assumptions about the CDI by measuring the resistance like in the manual? There's a "resistance table" that you can refer to when measuring between the different connections. I'm asking because I haven't yet seen anyone in the forums that has mentioned that they've measured the CDI resistances and made any conclusions from that.
      I'll attach a photo of my Bayou
      Pär, Sweden

    • By QuadMan49
      Long story short, I accidentally fried my quad's CDI box.
      I found several OEM ones for $300 which are out of my price range. Does any one know where to find one for less? Or any way to modify a $20 Chinese CDI to make it work? Thanks.
    • By hporter1208
      Okay, so I have a 2002 Rubicon 500…bought it last year and it sat for several months until I put a new rear axle in, FINALLY got that done and was super excited to finally have my wheeler going, just to notice a strong gas odor. Popped the seat off and sure enough, pouring gas from the carb overflow. Fast forward a few more weeks and get the new carb and get it in, no leak! Yay. Except now I have no spark. 😒 I’ve tried another plug and checked and am getting no power to the coil pack. I’ve read and read and mostly what I’ve found is ECU, which is fine…but I like to exhaust all avenues before buying the more expensive parts just because I don’t wanna spend the money and it have ended up being something simple that I overlooked because I was trying to rush. 😂 I don’t know if it’s relevant, but I read on another post that someone had similar issues with theirs and it was the sensor on the side of the carb, just a thought since this literally happened after I put the new carb on. It also displays “- -“ on the display screen where it should show the gear position.
    • DIY like a pro! Shop from over 1,000,000 Repair Manuals at eManualOnline.com! As low as $14.99 per manual. Shop now.
    • By Gwbarm
      Still working on the 2000 Big Bear with a no spark issue. A lot of this has been covered in an older thread, but I will summarize.
      Bought it with the previous owner telling me it needed a new wiring harness, but the wiring harness was in tact and seemed to be fine, except starter solenoid and coil was missing, also the engine was stuck, and no spark plug. Got the engine free and rotating, checked compression, it was 130, not great, but good enough to run. Hooked up a battery, nothing , went through all the wiring and found starter cutout relay bad, replaced that, now I have it rotating with starter. Pulled the plug checked, no spark. Checked start/stop switch, working like it should, reverse relay was bad ,replaced that. Checked continuity from coil to CDI, good, checked pickup coil resistance, within specs, checked anti kickback coil resistance, within specs. What am I missing.
  • Gallery Images

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Create New...