Quantcast
Jump to content


Maxxer 450i Fuel Gauge Stuck On FULL


MaxxerManDan
Go to solution Solved by Mech,

Recommended Posts

  • Solution

I'd check the gauges earth wire is ok..  And perhaps have a look into the tank to see if the float isn't somehow jammed upwards.. 

If you download the service manual  it will tell you exactly what to check and lead you through a step by step process to diagnose it.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

This is gonna sound really stupid. After I took out the fuel pump and made sure nothing was sticking, I placed it back in and noticed the fuel gauge rising to "full" again (though the tank wasn't full). I repeated this process several times...same result. Then, I decided to syphon my tank till the level was a 1/3 full. Woolah! The gauge finally began to drop. Here's my takeaway...the "full" line on the tank is actually 3/4 to the top, and the gauge will read "full" until the gas level drops to about halfway.  Just seems really weird.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Having to drain it down to only one third full before it shows any change doesn't sound good enough to me.

Some do, as you guys are saying, stay near full for a long time, but not I don't think to that degree.. That's not even a useful fuel gauge.. You'd have gone far too far out to make it back by the time the gauge even started to show any fuel used. That's just inviting trouble and worse than having no gauge.

Something in there might be bent or need adjusting somehow so it swings through a different arc and gets the full travel of the depth of the tank, or, the digital part of the gauge needs work surely ? They wouldn't have designed it that poorly.

I'd check that the gauge did range from empty to full with a full swing of the float's arm first, to be sure it's not an electrical problem. If it's not quite going from full to empty by a small amount, it might be possible to bend a stop on the arm, but watch the rheostat can travel that far. If it still doesn't go from full to empty it could be a bad earth on the tank unit or the dash.

then I'd measure the distance from the gauge's mount to the bottom of the tank, and to the full point of the tank, and then compare that to the floats distance traveled, and to the full and empty heights of the float. The float needs to travel through the right height distance, and through the right range. Sometimes putting a bend in the arm close to the pivot will get things right, and other times bending it right out near the end by the float helps. You might need to put two zig-zag bends in it so it shortens the arm, or straighten something to make the arm's effective length longer. First step is to get the float to travel the right distance up and down by adjusting the effective length of the arm, and then bend it again to get it to the right full or empty height, and it should read better than it is. If there is any need to compromise then do it so the empty reading is the more accurate one.

 

Edited by Mech
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By JohnnyB
      Greetings, 
      Have a 88 LT80 that been sitting for a couple years. Bought a new piston, cylinder and head. Installed these, rolled it over and it quickly locks up.  Took carb apart. It was full of what appears to be 2 cycle oil. Cleaned it, but keeps locking up and 2 cycle oil continues to seap from exhaust port.  When i installed new cylinder, I noticed crankcase was full of oil.  I'm now wondering if that oil is what's getting sucked up into cylinder.  Should there be no oil in crankcase?  If that the case, how is crank and rod lubricated?  Sorry, never worked on a 2 stroke. Thanks!
    • By Gwbarm
      I generally use Non Ethynol fuel in all my small engines. I just got back from the gas station and that fuel has really increased in price since last year, I will continue to use it, even though its north of 1.00 a gallon more. That seems minor compared to cleaning and repairing carbs every year. 
      I was just curious as to what others are doing in regard to gas in their quads, i know a lot of the newer ones are fuel injected which shouldnt pose a problem, but i have had lots of problems with rust and jell forming in carbs when using ethynol fuel.
    • By Spritee1
      having an issue with the unit when running under a load up a hill or in high gear, seems like the belt is slipping, there is a clapping sound coming from the primary clutch like it releases and snaps back in. i don't think I should have a noise like that. this is a friends unit and he has already replaced the primary twice with the same result.
      not sure where to look next
    • By semicolon
      Hi, I am having issues with my TRX350D fuel pump.  It suddenly stopped running so I have replaced all the fuses and cleaned all the terminals.  I have fitted a new pump, fuel cut-off relay and rectifier.  Still nothing!!  The pump runs when attached to a battery.  The engine will start on the choke and the filter fills with fuel but it will  not rev and dies when the choke is closed. I have power to the relay but nothing at the pump black/white wire when cranking the engine.  Any ideas where to go from here would be very much appreciated!!
       
    • By hardcastle
      My friends KQ 300 starts fine and runs, as soon as you put it in gear and try to accelerate its bucks and farts like crazy, not moving... I cleaned carb and it worked good for 1 day... now back to same problem.... could it be such as a bent valve????
×
×
  • Create New...