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2000 Big Bear pulls to the left


mga

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Is there any special way to align the front end so that it drives straight?

It's not bad, but it still could use an adjustment. I'm suspecting the tie rod was improperly adjusted to compensate for the bent lower "A" arm which i replaced.

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Do you mean it keeps veering slowly to the left on a straight flat road ? People have described things as pulling left, but then when we discussed it it turned out that the real problem was it turned left easily but needed to be wrestled to turn right.

If you have the wrong amount of toe-in it will normally just get erratic and keep trying to veer left or right, but not be happy going straight. It is important though that both tie rods are adjusted to the same length. If one rod is longer than the other, even though the overall toe in is right, it can cause pulling.

Are you sure the caster and camber are right ? Some makes have different length/width A arms on different years. If the new arm is a bit different to the original it will upset the camber and/or caster.

Other things that cause dragging to one side are dragging brakes, uneven tyre pressures, bad wheel bearings..  And it could be a problem at the rear.. 

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40 minutes ago, Mech said:

Do you mean it keeps veering slowly to the left on a straight flat road ? People have described things as pulling left, but then when we discussed it it turned out that the real problem was it turned left easily but needed to be wrestled to turn right.

If you have the wrong amount of toe-in it will normally just get erratic and keep trying to veer left or right, but not be happy going straight. It is important though that both tie rods are adjusted to the same length. If one rod is longer than the other, even though the overall toe in is right, it can cause pulling.

Are you sure the caster and camber are right ? Some makes have different length/width A arms on different years. If the new arm is a bit different to the original it will upset the camber and/or caster.

Other things that cause dragging to one side are dragging brakes, uneven tyre pressures, bad wheel bearings..  And it could be a problem at the rear.. 

gees.....thanks for all that...i think. The A arms were the same, i compared them before installing it. The bearings are new, all ball joints are new. Brakes have been checked...no dragging. I'll start playing with the tie rods. Even in neutral when i manually push it on a flat surface it turns left by itself.

I'll do the tie rods first and see what happens

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Check out the back end too, that could cause it. . Also check all four wheels are aligned.

When you push it, do the bars turn themselves to the left ? Or does the bike just go left with the bars still straight ?

It must be something bad if it veers just pushing it. Tyres all worn evenly ?

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With the wheels straight ahead, prop/lay a plank down each side touching the back wheels, and check the fronts are both in by the same amount, and that both front wheels have similar toe in or out.

Most four wheel  drive bikes seem to have a bit of toe out, rather than toe in..

 

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Nor are mine Mate..  And my back isn't what it used to be, I'm not as strong as I once was, my stamina for hard work is waning fast. At least I'm still healthy..   haha..  This getting old's a bugger..

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On 3/6/2023 at 5:47 PM, Mech said:

With the wheels straight ahead, prop/lay a plank down each side touching the back wheels, and check the fronts are both in by the same amount, and that both front wheels have similar toe in or out.

Most four wheel  drive bikes seem to have a bit of toe out, rather than toe in..

 

i'll try that today. i did eye ball it and made some adjusting, but that sounds like the way to go.  it appears to be a lot better, but using the boards seems more accurate.

thanks!

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It might pay to measure the distance on each side between the center of the back and front wheels as well (weird sh** happens). If one front wheel is back a little it will try to veer off.

And if you can block the plank up so it's near the center height of the wheels it will be more accurate.

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here's where i'm at: the front wheel camber is off. This is the side where some damage was to the lower A arm, which i replaced. The wheel is leaning in at the top, where the other wheel is "almost" level veritcally. So, i jacked it up and removed both wheels and took measurements off the frame to each ball joint and several other points. The problem is they are all equal.

So, now i have to figure out what else was bent when they crashed this thing.  The level i pl;ace on the hubs shows I have to somehow move the left wheel out about 3/8" to make it even with the right side. Since everything measured the same, i'm thinking that maybe the welded mounts on the frame might have moved (?) 

I also compared both lower A arms...the bad one and the one i bought. They were both the same. Upper A arms had the same measurements on both sides.

the attached picture shows how bad the original A arm was bent

A arm lower.jpg

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2 minutes ago, Mech said:

It's probably the kingpin/hub..  the cast bit between the top and bottom arms..  If the frame was bent you'd probably have spotted that.

well.....i think it's mostly "pilot error" on my part. I removed everything again and I re-tightened the ball joints and made sure they were seated, which they were. I removed the wheel and the plate were the lugs are on, and i noticed ( according to parts drawings ) there's a spacer ( washer) missing. It goes between the lug plate and bearing seal. It was never there to begin with! Thats why i had a little play in the wheel and i could rock it top to bottom. Without the wheel on it was very little movement, but, add a 26" wheel and the movement increases a lot. 

To show my wheel issue, the right wheel is "I" and the left wheel was "\" when on the ground.  ( only symbols i could find to show how the wheels sat...lol)

So, i ordered that part and there's a small "O" ring for that too. Hopefully when that spacer solves my mystery . I checked the frame closely and there were no bends and all the mounts for the A arms were good. 

it's this part: collar 90387-281v8-00

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Ha..  Good onya.. Perseverance always wins. Yeah you'd have spotted a bend or ripples in the frame if it was bent I'm sure.

And don't feel bad.. mechanics stuff things up all the time.. and a lot of them are too perverse to even backtrack half way through assembly when they realise something doesn't seem right.. They'd just have told you the knuckle was bent when they took it apart for the second time after you complained about it pulling left.  Thieving mongrels.. Admit doing something wrong and you have to pay, sell the customer some more work and it's more parts profit and hours booked out successfully.. It's why I was self employed since I was 21.

And those cast bits, called Knuckles in the book I see, they do bend.. surprisingly. If anyone else is having the trouble, don't discount the knuckle just because it looks so solid..

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once i correct that issue, i'm going to take your advice on adjusting the "toe-in" with the boards. Sounds easy enuff....(famous last words)

i do appreciate the feed back..brainstorming is the best teacher.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I put that missing spacer in today, seemed to help a lot with making the wheel straight vertically, still slightly off, but i'm not going to let my OCD get the better of me on that issue. I can live with it not being perfect.

I did play with the Toe-in, Toe-out and it seems to be like 90% better! When i push it in the garage it goes straight and it handles much better driving it. But, i'll go back to the Toe adjustment when i get the time and see if i can adjust it to the exact specs.

Before when i pushed it, the handle bars would move to the left. Now, it seems OK. For what i intend to use it for it should be OK. I have a steep hill out back and i needed this to get up and down it and carry stuff like saws or other tools. It's about 200 ft long and it's a killer to walk up it. That little 400 has some balls when i give full throttle. 

thanks again for the help!

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