Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

The bearings are good for about a million revolutions. It's possible to pick out the dust seals and apply a little grease in they seem dry.  I always pull things to bits before condemning them anyway, and it takes ten minutes to put those starters back together.

Yeah it used to be about $350 for a starter, they are still about $180 yanky which is this week about ..  Er $350 still.. Lat week it would have been a bit less. Brush sets I just saw are now from $15 to $23 kiwi.

 

Posted

I think people over estimate how long things take..  Those starters come apart in three minutes on the bench, or less, and they take ten minutes to put together, all greased up and tested.

 

Posted

I haven't rebuilt a starter before but, I'll probably rebuild mine if it goes south. I used to recondition Kirby, Rainbow, and Electrolux vacuum cleaners quite a while back.

I found a rear mastercylinder for my atv but, surely it can't be any good for $13.00 LOL!

Posted

They're a permanent magnet motor, and both ends come off so you can fit the brushes and back cap on to the armature, then slide the armature through the body and fit the other end on. Two long bolts, and a washer and nut on the power terminal, and it's all done.

And the brushes don't last long.. relatively speaking.. Some people that stop and start their bikes a lot, replace them after about four years. Sometimes brushes just get stuck in their holders from sitting. Brushes are way  the most common fault.

Posted

You might be surprised at these cheap master cylinders, I have put a few on these little Chinese scooters and have been very impressed with the quality, rubber is good thick a lot better than I expected.

Posted

Oh yeah, I use new hydraulics these days..  largely because it's so hard to get new seals and boots these days, (not to mention the valves some have), and the cylinders are all aluminum and don't hone up so good. And it does take longer to do up hydraulics. There are more pitfalls.

I think the economics of things are different in different countries too.. Parts are dear here..

Posted

Throw away alright Gw, and out-source..  And it's good for business, they make money on the parts and out-work, and have no responsibility for the work.. but.. it just entices them to send everything out, and to fit every part possible..  I can't stand it..  That and lying so they can charge to repair what they'd stuffed up.. It's why I worked for myself..  I prefer to be honest, and do a good job.

Posted

Hey guys sorry for the late update but I got a new starter installed tonight and went to hit the button and noting but I crossed the starter solenoid and it’s cranked over and hit for a second so I am going in the right direction. There is still that one wire that is getting me. I hooked it to red and blew a fuse. I hooked it to black and nothing. I hooked it to black and white and nothing. So any idea or help is appreciated thank you

Posted

According to the wiring diagram the black wires all go to earth, including the ones from the kill and main switches. When the switches are closed/turned to off, they connect the black earth wire to a wire that's black with a white stripe, to earth, and that kills the ignition. The black with white stripe comes from the cdi.

  • Like 1
Posted

Ok. What yr is this atv? You really need a wiring diagram and a multimeter.  I'm not familiar with this model but does it have a neutral light indicator? In other words when u turn the key on and the atv is in neutral, what lights ( if any) are illuminated on the console?

Posted

Ok thank you for your help guys I will get a test light and a meter and do some testing. and so mech you are saying to connect the black to the black and white wires or no I can send a picture of the wires I am tlaking about. And to jsl it is a 1994 Yamaha Timberwolf 250 2x4.also yes it does have a neutral light indicator on it and it’s lights up when i turn the key to the on position. And also when I hit the button the stater solenoid relay clicks. 

Posted

Have you tried unplugging the positive wire from the solenoid connector and then tried touching it to the positive battery terminal to make sure the starter turns over the engine? That will determine whether or not the primary and secondary circuits are good in the relay. It can click and still, not be any good. I would unplug solenoid wires and check for proper voltage as GW said if touching solenoid + wire to battery causes the engine to turn over. I use  piercing probes with my meters a lot which can make pretty quick tests on wires sometimes. Good luck! You can check solenoid primary ground connection straight to battery also.

Posted

If you're talking about bridging the two posts with the nuts on them, all that does is bypass the solenoid. If you can push a wire or multimeter probe into solenoid connector where the brown wire is then touch other end of probe or wire to battery positive, it should crank if, the solenoid is good. I'm just assuming,  the brown wire is indeed the hot wire.

Posted

Atv, I posted a wiring diagram for the model with an eight wire cdi, did you see that ?

If you connect the black wire with a white stripe (described as "Bl"), which comes from the cdi, to any black wire, it will kill the ignition.

  • Like 1
Posted

BWhen you touch the 2 posts together you are bypassing everything and sending battery voltage directly to the starter  , if you have 12 v going to the relay when you push the button the relay closes and you get 12v to the starter soloenoid one with 2 big post and then to starter if it’s good and your wires going from the start button or switch are good .

  • Like 1
Posted

I looked and was not sure which wiring diagram was correct for the bike.  Right mech, sounds like the switch wires are not color coded right, you can take the switch apart see which wire colors operate on and off, then look at the wiring diagram and wire it accordingly, some of the switches you can take the terminal out and move it to where it needs to be and still use the connector. Just looked at one of the wiring diagrams on the main switch R and Br in on, and B/W and B is off. 

Posted (edited)

The diagrams show several different switches, with different behavior. Some are just a single set of contacts, and some have two sets of contacts, and the two contact sorts can work both poles in parallel, or inversely, (so when one goes on the other goes off).

Edited by Mech
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Hey guys I have a update on my 95 Yamaha Timberwolf 250cc 2wd. I have got it to where it will run for a second on starting fluid and the. Just cranks.  Has spark is getting fuel. There was some nasty stuff in the bottom of the tank but got that taking care of. Like I said it will run for a second and then just keep cranking like it does not want to hit anymore. Any ideas 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Popular Now

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By hengstserepair
      Howdy ya'll. I am working ona 2000 Yamaha Breeze 125. It was in rought shape when I received it and I am working through issues as they pop up. The quad had been sitting for years. I was able to get her running again, but I need your help with the following issue:
      I don't trust the transmission yet and I don't want to make problems any worse. So, I haven't pushed things hard at all. Low rpms, less than 5mph in reverse.

      Nuetral: Runs as expected
      Reverse: She seems to be driving fine at slow speeds. Going into reverse at idle is fine, coming out of reverse back into neutral won't work (the shifter is just stuck). As soon as I turn off the quad, I am able to shift around without any issue.
      Forward: It slips. It seems to only transfer power to the wheels on a smooth surface and going slightly downhill. When shifting into forward at idle, there is a clacking sounds during the transition. Shifting back to nuetral works just fine.

      Other Notable Symptoms: There was old oil in the vbelt and when I was tuning the carb, it starting blowing out of the CVT cooling vent at the front of the quad. Made quite a mess. There is positive crankcase pressure due to piston blowby, that I have not decided whether or not I am going to fix (customer budget dependant).  Since the oil was old, much darker than the new oil that is in the crankcase, I am thinking it seeped past a bad seal while it was sitting for years. The oil that was in it when I first got it had gas in it.

      Thoughts: I am thinking maybe there is an issue with the clutch. I worry about the old oil intermingling with the dry centrifugal clutch. I was thinking my next step would be to take the cover off of the clutch and inspect it.

      Let me know what you all think. Any advice and ideas is greatly appreciated. This is only the 3rd quad I have worked on and I have a lot to learn.

      Lorne
    • By Rockbottom
      2008 400 big bear was running now will not start
      have power to relay, in neutral, press start have power to starter but nothing happens starter does not turn
      i have good ground at battery to frame and added ground from wire harness to frame beside batter/ frame ground
      blue white wire to cdi has power with key on
      I believe the neutral lock out is working since is was before i shut it down
      if i put  it in gear and hit the start button with key on the relay does not click or send power the starter
      The 3 wires at the relay have power with key on
      What should i test next?
      thanks ahead
    • By Mister907
      Hi guys, I have a 2004 big bear 400. Last winter while plowing the driveway, I heard a loud pop from the left side of the engine. It continued to run as I looked for leaky fluid, but then died shortly after backing it up and won’t start now. The oil light comes on when I try to start it, no noise or anything else. 
      No blown fuses that I can find.
    • By jeffinotown
      Hey guys and gals. I've been working on my friends 2007 big bear IRS. Unfortunately after 3 different people got their hands on it and only made things worse every time.  After months of finding just crazy problems everywhere. I'm finally at the point we're its almost 100% !!! But I'm getting a short somewhere between the 4xW switch I believe. I managed to by searching the internet like a  fiend, got my hands on an official Yamaha wire harness for the year and make. But I don't have the numbered component list and to be honest. After hours of going through and making everything so it's  easy to reference. If anyone has a picture of the referenced components. I would be forever in your debt. I've spent hours marking up the blown up diagram so it will be easy, for any possible future repairs. Please and thank you. Here's a picture of what i have so far.  Unsealed it in plastic so oil and crap won't spill or get smudged. This damn things worth it's weight in gold.              Thanks Jeff                2007 Yamaha big bear 400 IRS.       YFM40FBW
    • By Jdeaton011989
      Hi all. I have a timberwolf 250 2nd that will not start.. I thought it was out of time bc the guy I got it from said it just quit on him. The tensioner had a nut welded to it and it was like2 teeth off. I installed new tensioner and chain and it still will not start. It has fire and it will not hit off brake cleaner. It has compression. Haven't put a gauge but I'm sure it will crank and run with what it has. I double checked my work and it's still in time. Spot on. Both valves move. I'm about to put a feeler gauge on them and I'll cone back but other than that any ideas?
×
×
  • Create New...