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2002 Kawasaki Bayou 220 carb stumble


stsguy

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Hey freinds, I picked up a beautimus 02 kaw 220 bayou. What I know about this machine .. Not ran in 4 to 5 yrs after providing seller with yrs of trouble free service . It was left under a tree after the seller bought a larger atv.
After sitting for 5 yrs My 1st gift was
1)fresh oil and filter
2)new gas and "filters" 2 inline
I'll explain in a sec.
3) new amazon carb airfilter and boot to carb
4) Start and ran for 30mins
5) add a little atf fluid rans 3 mins
6) another new oil filter and more new oil
I FORGOT NEW battery also....
I pulled it twice ..not doing that agian
The bike ran like a top no worries besides thee reverse cable will not function as its ment to.
After 3 to 4 weeks it started to die.
I found white crude in the carb from water In the fuel somehow.. not sure how..
So new amazon carb as I boughtv2 the 1st time in case one was crap.
I've bought alot of these cheap carbs only 4 or 5 percent has been problematic ..
So back to a clean tank and added 2 inline filters just incase and it starts runs idles like a new bike . But thus time I have a small stumble in the 1st 10 to 15 percent of throttle travel.
We are in Texas about 130 ft Elevation. Reckon the jets need adjustment or replaced or is there other adjustments I can make.
Cheers joe

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  • Admin changed the title to 2002 Kawasaki Bayou 220 carb stumble

I have had the same trouble you are describing with aftermarket carbs, they are too lean and seem to stumble right above idle, once you go a little further with throttle they smooth out some, but dont seem to have the same power as OEM. Im sure the double filter is not helping that much either.

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thank you first and foremost for all of the time you have taken TO REPLY ... 2 filters were a possibility but I replaced the 2 with a new larger one but the issue remains, I cant find any info on jet adjustment Do I need to pull the carb for each adjustment???15230695_1811611969051714_3157408768594851781_n(1)-Copy.thumb.jpg.b62bf872e8b7421c22feb3b59143d547.jpg

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You should not have to remove the carb to make adjustments, there is a screw underneath the carb, turn it while its running to fine tune the adjustment, it might be a little tight and you may have to devise something to adjust it, i would start with the screw 1 1/2 turns out and adjust until your engine is running the fastest, and smoothest them you can adjust the idle screw on the venturi, that adjusts how deep the slide goes into down. You can also move the needle up or down a notch if you need to by unscrewing the top piece and pulling the slide out.

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From the other site Sts...

Yikes.. How many carbs have you bought over the years ?

The carbs they sell you are set up for some generic bike that will run with the jets and setting they have fitted, but they are almost never set up to the manufacturers specs for any particular bike. They nearly always need some adjustments and doing the work, and figuring what they need, is more work generally than just repairing the original.

In your case here the problem sounds like the transition from the idle circuit to the slide needle controlled part of the circuit, or the slide needle circuit itself.

I'd adjust the idle mixture and speed to get the mixture setting in the center of it's mixture range, with the speed setting as slow as possible. It's very important when you are adjusting the mixture that the butterfly or slide is as closed off as much as possible, and after you have got it set at a slow even setting then you can if you want increase the speed slightly, but don't readjust the mixture once it's at it's best lowest slide/butterfly setting.
Then if the trouble is still there I'd adjust the slide needle one notch and test it. Whether you raise or lower the needle will depend on the symptoms. If it's stumbling and sort of gurgling it is probably too rich, and if it's spitting into the airbox it's probably too lean.

 

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Not that many, but i have rebuilt more than i care to think about, always start at 11/2 turns out, adjust to the left until the engine starts slowing down and loping, them turn to the right until the same thing happens and somewhere in the middle of those two points the engine is running the fastest and the smoothest, and then i idle it down to a good idle.

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I was asking how many the OP had bought, to have 4-5 percent duds.

That's the way to adjust the mixture except we should do it at the smallest throttle opening, then speed it up after if we need/want to. No big deal as long as you don't get a slight flat spot/hesitation just as opening the throttle. People get caught out and can start going around in circles making it richer faster trying to stop it, when the problem is that the fuel is gurgling out both idle discharge holes and not getting atomised the way it should. Not what you'd do I'm sure Gw, but I've seen it done heaps.. It's a trap for beguiners trying to adjust the mixture with the throttle open too far.

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2 hours ago, Mech said:

From the other site Sts...

Yikes.. How many carbs have you bought over the years ?

The carbs they sell you are set up for some generic bike that will run with the jets and setting they have fitted, but they are almost never set up to the manufacturers specs for any particular bike. They nearly always need some adjustments and doing the work, and figuring what they need, is more work generally than just repairing the original.

In your case here the problem sounds like the transition from the idle circuit to the slide needle controlled part of the circuit, or the slide needle circuit itself.

I'd adjust the idle mixture and speed to get the mixture setting in the center of it's mixture range, with the speed setting as slow as possible. It's very important when you are adjusting the mixture that the butterfly or slide is as closed off as much as possible, and after you have got it set at a slow even setting then you can if you want increase the speed slightly, but don't readjust the mixture once it's at it's best lowest slide/butterfly setting.
Then if the trouble is still there I'd adjust the slide needle one notch and test it. Whether you raise or lower the needle will depend on the symptoms. If it's stumbling and sort of gurgling it is probably too rich, and if it's spitting into the airbox it's probably too lean.

 

I have a few technical term(s) for explaining the quantity of the aftermarket parts I've invested in over the years. The carb count totals up higher than the names I was taught years ago in school. there are no words to describe the number of carbs I've bought.. I have been looking for my name on the side of a Bezo Aviation test rocket Im sure I paid my fair share. The damage the Crap gas at the pump does to these carbs is scary most everyone I've gone to rebuild had pitting or is so far damaged there is no coming back. SO habit I guess, a New project that's been sitting for a long time?... I don't even look I just pay an installment note on the rocket....

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