Quadrunner LT4WD Running too Rich?

[Jd101506]

No idea if this helps or hurts my case but I pulled a small bottle pump out and put some pressure on the carb. I would imagine this pumps more pressure into the carb than that fuel pump possibly could. It seems to hold pressure. 
 

I realized as I was removing this carb that the drain for the carb was kinked. So I would imagine if this TRIED to drain it wouldn’t have. The rubber hose was folded over on itself and wouldn’t let any fuel past. It’s encouraging that when I put that pressure on it, it came out in a steady stream and then abruptly ended. Tells me the seat and needle are doing something relatively right. 

 

I took a piece of vinyl hose and tried to blow through it. I know I can probably only put maybe 2psi to it blowing myself but nothing came out. I’m trying to figure out how I can make a 5psi pressure system to test the float and needle. 
 

thoughts? 
 

 

[Mech]

How about pulling some of the float needle seats out and telling us what size they all are.. 

I've found some specifics and they vary from 1.5 to 3.3...

[Jd101506]

11 minutes ago, Mech said:

#12.. The manuals I've been looking in say that there are two different float levels, one around an inch and the other around a half inch.  What exact model of carb do you have ? It could be a BST or a Vm, but both models have some other numbers on them if they are OEM, like 19BA or 39DO.. 

I also noticed that those crankcase vents only vent into the airbox, no branch to the front near the fuel tank..  Where that hose fits to the front of the airbox there is probably a restrictor, or it might even have a restrictor inside that rubber hose.. some did. They get blocked with gunk and can cause crankcase pressure..  but again, it's not your main problem..

Good info! 
 

The one that came off the Quadrunner is a VM24, so when I ordered the replacement carbs I used the Suzuki parts website and ordered 13200-19B02. Same deal for the Kipa carb. 
 

Is there a slick test I can do on the oil to see if there’s fuel in it? I’m second guessing myself that it has fuel in it. I tried the cardboard test and didn’t noticing any rings forming. The smell isn’t bad enough for me to immediately say I’ve got a big problem but that thing takes a ton of oil compared to my LT300 so it could have a bit in it and I dunno if I’d know. 

[Jd101506]

Oh and while I was messing around I did a compression test just to be sure I wasn’t having bigger issues. Seems like 165 throttle open. So that’s positive! 

[Mech]

There are two VM models shown for america and canada..  But I bet there are other ones for NZ or aussie or europe.. sweden.. If it doesn't have one of the other numbers(19AB0, 19B02) then it's not going to be genuine OEM. and it could be set up for a different bike..

The overflow hose being crimped won't help for sure, but it shouldn't have any fuel in it if the float needle etc is good. Lots of float needles leak slightly though, not enough to upset the running, but if the fuel taps leak overnight they can fill the crankcase..  You should take the hose off it and sit and watch it doesn't drip.. Same with the vacuum hose..

[Gwbarm]

1 hour ago, Jd101506 said:

The one that came off the Quadrunner is a VM24, so when I ordered the replacement carbs I used the Suzuki parts website and ordered 13200-19B02. Same deal for the Kipa carb. 

Glad to hear, i guess i read it wrong, i was under the impression you were rebuilding the LT300e carb with the Shindy LT4WD kit. I thought you said the original mikuni for that bike was trashed. Your doing great!

[Gwbarm]

I usually can tell if gas is in the oil by feel, its thinner than it should be, and not much viscocity, and has a gassy smell, of couse with it out you can certainly tell by looking at it, but if you go to the trouble of getting it out, you might as well put in new, but only after you are sure its not leaking in there anymore.

[Jd101506]

WELL.  I think I solved it.  

So first off, I had my neighbor test my fuel as hes a mechanic, he has some kind of chromotograph and measured a sample of my oil.  A VERY slight amount of fuel, but again this quad has something like 3.6quarts so its quite a lot.  

Couldn't sleep for a time last night so I started pawing through the manual.  I realized two things.  First, I installed my air intake filter incorrectly.  When I got the quad, the airbox was PACKED full of mouse nest, this also means the original foam filter was toast, melted, eaten, completely gone.  So when I went to reinstall, I didn't realize that I could take apart the air intake plastic shroud.  I looked at it briefly and it LOOKED like it was a rivet in one side holding the plastic shroud to the guide for the mount in the box.  So the ONLY way this could have been mounted was reversing the filter and installing it backwards... Which would NORMALLY be fine, but the foam filters I bought had quite a lot of glue on one end and I wonder if it was blocking the air flow or causing erratic running.  Either way, I corrected this and it seems quite a bit better.  

Second, I think you guys hit the nail on the head.  When I originally ordered the email carbs I ordered the correct PNs for each the LT300E and the LT4WD.  Now they are the SAME slide style carb, but as @Gwbarm noted the jets are different.  The LT300E takes a  13200-41B31 and the LT4WD takes a 13200-19B02.  Again, I ordered these carbs from the SAME seller, on the SAME day, and they arrived on the SAME day to my house.... You can see where this is going.  

When I got it in, I had the fuel pump ready to go for the LT300 but not the LT4WD, so I left that one in the box.  Installed the LT300 carb and boom!  Went like it should and it was great.  I DID notice on occasion, that when coming off a hard throttle I'd have a little bit of a RPM drop and every once in awhile it would stall.  I didn't think too much of it since I haven't really put a lot of effort into that quad, and figured I needed a new plug and all that.  So later, when the replacement fuel pump for the LT4WD arrived, I installed that and had all the following issues... 

So after ALL these issues and everything else... I figured I must have screwed up somewhere.  So today, I parked them both next to each other and setup two VERY obviously different stations and I removed the carbs from BOTH Suzukis.  I pulled the LT300e, and took a look at the pilot and the main.  The 300e had a 98 main installed and a pilot listed with a 41.  Thought this was weird because it was basically down the middle of the CV and slide carbs for the LT4wd... When I pulled the carb that was ON the LT4WD, it had a 112.5 main and a 20 pilot.  I slapped my forehead and realized my mistake.  What I DID do after, is I swapped the carbs, put the correct 112.5 and 20 on the LT300e, it fired RIGHT up and runs around the yard with no hesitation and ZERO issues.  It sounds great!  Because the main and pilot are SLIGHTLY off the book... I took the Shindy carb kit jets OUT of the original carb and installed in the ebay carb.  Adjusted my slide/throttle and my mixture to factory. (Did this on both).  Reinstalled, and MAN, it fired RIGHT up and idles like brand new.  I'm attaching a video as a final proof.  I double checked the overflow, and I double checked the inside of the carb after riding around for awhile and both were dry!  I think I am reaching the end of my issues... 

Only thing now I noticed is that my speedo doesn't work so I'll have to figure that out.  I have a lot of cleaning and other things to do but I am REALLY happy with how it runs!  Thank you guys SO much for all your help with my issues during this!  I really appreciate your guidance and patience.  

[Gwbarm]

Glad you got it sorted out, runs good and sounds and shifts good, hopefully the speedometer will come around, sometimes the grease in the mechanisnm gets hard and brittle from age and siting and just takes a little persuasion and a little oil to get it loosened up and moving again.

[Mech]

There's a lesson to be learnt here...  Not about those carbs though..

[Jd101506]

7 minutes ago, Mech said:

There's a lesson to be learnt here...  Not about those carbs though..

Measure twice post on the forums once? 🙃

[Mech]

Ha.. yeah man.. something like that..

I was thinking more along the lines of assume nothing.. That lesson applies to you and me here.. 

[Jd101506]

My major problem was working on two different quads, which were damn near identical in the first place. Confusing D7EA and D8EA plugs, near identical filters, near identical carbs… I have no problem admitting I was wrong or that I was the big dummy here. Definitely learned a lot, got two free fourwheelers up and running for under 800$ all in, and got me active on here so I’ll consider it a win. 
 

like I said above I really appreciate everyone’s patience. It definitely tried mine… 😆

[Mech]

Not dumb.. just need to be more methodical probably.. and assume nothing.

The people that sell the aftermarket carbs will tell you anything. The OEM carbs are set up for the fuel a particular market has, and it's climate, altitude, emission requirements, whether the bike is sporty or a workhorse..  The aftermarkets aren't set up for any of that. They are just generic tune that might run on a heap of different makes and models.

And we can' go swapping just some of the internals.. If we change one jet, we need to change a heap.

Good work sorting it all out eventually.. And patience is the mark of a good mechanic.. All the good ones are patient.. And impatient people don't make good mechanics.

 

[1998Zuki250]

Following this thread!

[dlgg7]

Me too, working on the same thing!