Oil leak 1985 suzuki 250

[Mhatayas]

On 3/16/2024 at 11:40 PM, Mech said:

A little leak up at the head to exhaust pipe join, or anywhere in the first few inches of pipe, will make them backfire.

Tried these guys.. They have always been good exhausts at a fair price.

https://www.musketmufflers.com/

I ended up welding a bombardier 400exhahst  onto it ... And then it still backfired , I discovered more holes up near the head, I'm going to use some high heat jb  weld to patch them 

[Gwbarm]

I havent had a lot of success with JB weld on exhaust , doesnt like the high heat, but it will hold for a while, if still having problems they make putty for exhaust, also doent hold up well, the constant jaring of the machine loosens it and it falls out. Not much help, but that is my expierience.

[Mhatayas]

On 3/16/2024 at 11:40 PM, Mech said:

A little leak up at the head to exhaust pipe join, or anywhere in the first few inches of pipe, will make them backfire.

Tried these guys.. They have always been good exhausts at a fair price.

https://www.musketmufflers.com/

Thanks guys. So I scored another parts bike , possibly! 

And now that small hole in my exhaust blew apart into a huge 2inch hole right where the 2pipes join into one !!! So loud and backfires like crazy again . I hate riding it now because of the attention it draws...

 

But anyways, my current parts bike, has good pipes up to and past the join , I want to take it off and weld it on to replace the damaged portion.. 

But get this ! I tried to take the pipe off my good bike to replace it with the parts bike pipe, but The darn nuts on the header bolts are seized on there and basically morphed into the bolt. I already snapped one off trying to get it out ! I didn't want to proceed beyond that. Do you think I'm better off just cutting out a portion and welding it in 2 places instead of trying to replace the whole front part of the pipe ? Another thing I just thought of , was to weld a new bolt onto the old one , but it's a tight spot and I might not be able to actually do it (haven't really evaluated it yet ) 

[Gwbarm]

Those bolts are sometimes hard to get off without breaking, i usually heat them cherry red and then srray with the water hose to cool them quickly and then douse with PB Blaster, it works most of the time.

[Mech]

If you can split the nut it will come loose. There are tools called nut splitters. You'd have to get one that could fit onto that nut if the space is a bit confined.

[Gwbarm]

Nut splitter is a good idea i have one and never think to try it, generally we dont think to try these things until we have already broken the nut off, but as a rule i always try something on muffler bolts that have never been removed 99 percent of the time they break.

[Mhatayas]

I ended up welding it 

[Mech]

And has it fixed the back-firing ?

Those nuts at the head join, some owners manuals say that as a matter of routine maintenance they should be loosened and re-tightened. It's only about once a year they say to do it.  It's probably in recognition of the fact those nuts seize.

[Gwbarm]

That would be good to do that every so often, i have been putting ani seize on everything including those bolts, dont know if it actually works because of the heat but couldnt hurt.

[Mech]

Anti seize should work at temp. Graphite powder mixed with oil, or black grease, or copper based anti-seize are all pretty anti-seize and heat resistant.

I mostly just use a  black grease to lube those bolts. It's got Moly something.. 

[Mhatayas]

Thanks folks for all the wonderful info. Appreciate you two always chiming in. 

Next time I'll know what to do . Check out the parts bike I scored today ! 

[Mhatayas]

I wish there were lids for those small storage boxes on the racks though! I just need one more

[Mech]

Good score..

[Gwbarm]

It looks fairly complete, whenever i get a parts bike i look it over and say this is not bad and end up fixing it and turning it into a runner also, but thats what i like to do take junk and make it good again, i think its the challenge, not necessarily that i need another runner.

[Mech]

I think it's built into us to want to make something good..  It's what the religions are all about.. Explaining "creation", when we think of it as a verb. We're all the product/result of creation(v), and it's what keeps us alive and prosperous. It's an integral part of us this"creation" business..

Of course there's always someone (not you Gw) that takes things a bit too far and want's a bit too much, and  then the trouble starts..  haha

[Mhatayas]

So folks , I'm having a bit of a recurring problem now ... This is my 2nd front sprocket that have wore the teeth down so much that the chain keeps slipping.. I had to ride a few miles back home in reverse! 

 

Here are some things I think may be causing it ? Loose chain, stretched chain , old sprocket (from parts bike)

Chain not lubricated enough or with the right lube 

Low quality sprockets? 

 

I want to order a new chain and a new front (and probably rear too) sprockets 

 

And get some good lube meant for these chains 

 

Any recommendations? For a chain sprockets and lube? Is there some kinda aftermarket sprockets and chain that will hold up against wear a lot longer ? 

[Gwbarm]

As far as aftermarket sprockets i would stick to Japanese, two that come to mind is DID and RK i would also go with steel sprockets , not aluminum,along with an o ring chain.. There is another i have heard good reviews on even though its made in thailand JT sprockets x ring chain, im assuming yours is a 520 chain.

[Mhatayas]

30 minutes ago, Gwbarm said:

As far as aftermarket sprockets i would stick to Japanese, two that come to mind is DID and RK i would also go with steel sprockets , not aluminum,along with an o ring chain.. There is another i have heard good reviews on even though its made in thailand JT sprockets x ring chain, im assuming yours is a 520 chain.

Yup appears so. I was looking just now and JT seems to be one of the few options. Seems like a reputable brand. Yup 520chain and they have x and o ring options. Think I'm gonna try to figure this out and order the parts 

[Mhatayas]

Hello again folks! I ended up buying another part's bike. With my 3 parts bikes , now I should be able to get at least one up and running. 

 

So, when I got it , the seller said they used to jump start it and it just randomly wouldn't start one day. It's been sitting for a couple months since (that's if he was telling the truth) 

I got the ATV for cheap. 

 

When I got home , I tried crossing over the solenoid, and it cranks the bike over but seems no spark . I'm going to get a new spark plug, I took out the old one. And there was metal shavings on the end of it ! 

And then , now when I cross the solenoid, it doesent crank anymore!!! It just heats up the battery terminals red hot now! I don't understand??? What happened? 

 

Should I try wrapping a rope around the pull start ? When I get a new plug ? 

 

But I'm concerned now about the solenoid not cranking it anymore? Just makes the terminals red hot. 

[Mech]

You could take the pull start off and try turning the crank by hand(or screwdriver through the cup's slots.).

[Gwbarm]

It may be the engine has locked up, since you said metal shavings were on the plug, not a good sign, have you tried turning it with a wrench to see if its free. Oh yeah you can. put a rope on the pull start to see if it moves.

[Mhatayas]

I did that first thing, and it does turn! 

[Gwbarm]

Thats good i figured you had tried that already next  i would replace the soloenoid . If its glowing red its internally shorted.

[Mhatayas]

Thanks. I'll try a solenoid off one of my parts bikes, I also will try a bit of carb/choke cleaner down in the air box and pull the starter manually with a rope wrapped around it. Maybe there is no spark as well, I'm gonna replace the plug first, They have a lot of the wires hacked off 

[Mhatayas]

Folks, the solenoid, randomly is turning the bike over again! But now I suspect, no spark! Tried the good plug from my daily bike, and crossed the solenoid with the plug out grounded to the motor , no spark! Guess I'm going to have to test the coil , and hopefully it's not a wire missing or something! What are the critical wires ? Because some are hacked off. No ignition there whatsoever, what should I test from the plug Cap/wire/coil onward? 

[Gwbarm]

You need your stator and pickup coil wires going to the CDI if any of those are hacked need to reattach them , need ground power and coil wire leaving the CDI.

[Mech]

Some of the old suzuki were 12 volt and some were stator run cdi. You might need to ascertain what year and model and market you have to get the right wiring diagram.

It's pretty much what Gw said though, and if you can match colours up you might get it to spark.

[Mhatayas]

I got it sparking, but , only when manually cranking it over ! When I put the battery in , and try to crank over with the solenoid, there's no spark ! Even when manually cranking it with the battery IN , there's no spark ! 

 

I switched out the cdi unit and it seemed to start sparking! But there is no voltage regulator on there , what could be the issue causing that ? Now there is another issue preventing it from starting, fuel pump, I believe! I'll switch one over tomorrow, from the other parts bike , I have ! 

[Mech]

Check all the earths. Big and small earth wire at the battery, on the engine, and to the frame.

If you mean the regulator isn't working, check it's earth too. It has an earth wire and it's probably meant to have a good earth where it mounts.

[Mhatayas]

5 minutes ago, Mech said:

Check all the earths. Big and small earth wire at the battery, on the engine, and to the frame.

If you mean the regulator isn't working, check it's earth too. It has an earth wire and it's probably meant to have a good earth where it mounts.

Regular is missing completely!