2019 sportsman 850 touring. Parasitic draw

[chadh]

When the machine sits a few days I have a week/dead battery.
What I have found,
1. There is a group of four smaller gauge wires connected to the positive side of the battery. One of these is a blue wire, with the key off there is a .5amp draw on this wire.
2. When I pull the EFI relay it is warm and the .5amp draw stops.
3. I can reinstall the relay and the draw does not return until the key is turned back on.
4. Swapping the relay with another does not change the condition.
5. Turning the engine kill switch to stop does not kill the draw.

I am assuming that when the key is turned off the EFI relay should relax, but is not.
Does/should the key to off remove the control power for the relay, and therefor relax, or does the ECM control this relay?

Thanks for any help.

Chad
 

[Gwbarm]

You have done some great investigative work. I would trace the blue wire to the key switch and make sure everything is good there, with the relay unplugged check to see if the wire still has voltage on it. I would have guessed the relay, but you checked that. My thought is the relay might be sticking and once you unplug it and plug it backin there may not be enough power to work the relay until you turn the switch to on.

[Mech]

I can't find a complete wiring diagram. It seems strange they would have so many small wires connected to the battery though. I think the winches connect straight to the battery and that has a blue wire, so perhaps look at/disconnect that first.

It sounds like what's happening, is that there's a short somewhere(perhaps in an electronic component), that's feeding power back into the main ignition lines when the key is turned on,(turning the key on makes some relay or electronic unit switch some circuit on), then turning the key off disconnects the power from the key switch but the short/.bad relay is keeping the main power live.. I'm not familiar with Polaris so wouldn't know where or what that would be.

I think I'd disconnect the winch, pull all the fuses and all the relays and try reinstalling them one at a time.

If you have a complete wiring diagram Chad, post it up and I'll take a look. I'll keep searching for a full diagram.

[Mech]

Oh, afterthought..  A bad earth on some component could cause 12v that's meant to be shorted to earth inside the component, to reroute back through some other key switched wire coming out of that component.

I'd also disconnect the voltage regulator when I was disconnecting all the fuses and relays.

[Gwbarm]

I would definately unhook the wench wires if possible, until you get this sorted out, but if its a factory installed unit it mat be incorporated into the rest of the harness.

[chadh]

Update: I found a Polaris reference that said once the power is turned off to wait at least 10 minutes before checking for parasitic drain. I rechecked after 10 min and the draw was still there, however, after 15 it was gone. I have a second sportsman that is two years new and it acts similar. Decided to just change the relay since it was hot, unfortunately, this did not help. I had a dead battery again this morning.

OK, so it was recommended to have the ECU flashed or replaced. Am I able to flash it myself or does it have to go to the dealer? Is there a procedure for doing this myself? 

Next step I guess is to check grounds. It is just weird, I had an amp meter on the battery and once 15 min was up there was no draw. What ever caused it started back up, or I need a new amp meter for my Fluke (wounded how the wife will take that). 

Open to your ideas…

Thank You

Chad

[Mech]

A relay shouldn't, and doesn't, usually get hot, not even under a heavy load and being switched on continuously..  The contacts should be able to carry a big load without getting hot, and the trigger winding should be able to carry it's tiny current indefinitely without producing any significant heat let alone being hot.

I'd disconnect the load wire from the relay and see if it still ran hot, then I'd disconnect the trigger wire and see if it still got hot..

[Gwbarm]

Earlier didnt you say you replaced the relay with no change in post #1. Did the replaced relay also get hot. 

[Mech]

He did ..  So which part of the circuits is causing the heat, the windings or the contacts, or perhaps.. a diode in, or a diode missing/blown in the relay...

[Mech]

I've since found the wiring diagram and if there is only one blue wire, it should turn red after a splice/connector which connects it to the main loom, and then, as a red wire, go to a splice which branches red four ways to the fuse panel. The blue wire, or it's connection where it joins the loom is a fuseable link. The manual will tell if it's the wire or the connection.

If there is a second blue wire from the battery it's the same fusable link setup(but a seperate one), and it then goes to the speed sensor..