Power Station

[jen]

No.I don't operate Xnfmr control Xnfmr in reverse...I have walked in on jobs where maint. guys were trying to by pass Xnfmr with external power (extension cords...LOL) Not realizing there was 480 output.

And CVA Xnfmrs don't like extraneous neutrals...seen that a couple times.

[davefrombc]

Since my original question   " Anyone  carrying  a power box when  camping with their ATV? "   Power Box as in Power Station  has been taken  completely off topic   I'm abandoning replying to  posts in it.

I've done my best to reply to the questions on the LiFePO4 battery and some of the components of my build.   That's all  I  have to contribute to it.

[mikeexplorer]

On 9/12/2025 at 9:41 AM, davefrombc said:

I used a dc to dc  converter  designed to be used in a  truck / SUV to make a charger that can be plugged into an accessory socket  in a vehicle , or as the MPPT   charge controller to  charge from solar panels.   I also  have wall chargers designed specifically to  charge   LiFePO4 batteries. I  can  charge my home built  Power Station  ( box) either from  home with  the wall  charger,  from  vehicle via accessory socket  or from  solar panels.  Most Power Stations can  be charged the same way.. The big advantage of my homemade one is I  have  12v DC output from it up to  100 A  max draw to  run things like an electric outboard motor.  I  have not seen a commercial Power Station with more than  10 t0 15A output via  accessory socket.``

I  used a  battery box with the USB outlets,  accessory socket and battery volt meter built in to  build my  Power Station..  Those boxes  are originally designed for marine use  to  power The motor starting battery and accessories like depth sounders  and electric trolling motors..  

I  have also  built a power Station ( box)  using a plain  plastic marine battery box housing a 100Ah LiFePO4 battery..  I  put two   Accessory sockets on it  and  wired  on both a 120A and 50 A Anderson  plugs.    I  also  put   the DC to DC converter on  it so  I could charge it from an accessory socket or  solar panels.  USB  out  for it is by an accessory socket USB adapter. There is no  volt meter on it  and there is no 120v  inverter attached to it  like  the  commercial box  I  used to  build the one in the picture..   Box was just a plain  plastic marine battery box  I  added the outlets to. 

I just caught this statement. Your using a DC-DC converter to upscale voltage as an input to a solar controller to charge the battery? So your charging input can be from a vehicle or a solar panel? 

If I read that right, I could make a change on my setup for simplicity.

 

[davefrombc]

I'm using a DC to DC converter to take the 12v  from a vehicle alternator  to   output  14.2 to 14.6v  to  charge the LiFePO4  battery in  my Power  station( power box)  from an accessory  socket.  Output to the  power box is only 8 amps max . The  DC to DC converter can also act as an MPPT  controller for solar input.  It doesn't do  both  at the same time.  I  connect  either a solar panel  or an accessory plug to  it depending on which  charge source  I'm going to  use.  

I  put  an Anderson  power pole connector on the input  so  I  could make the switch in inputs easily.  I  couldn't use  one with a higher amperage output because the amp draw from the  accessory socket  would be to  high and pop the fuse on it since they are typically only 10 to 15A  output  sockets.

What I did building my  Power Box ( b Power station)  is entirely different than  what you are doing  and  charging parameters for  LiFePO4  batteries  are  much different than  charging lead acid ones  in their various forms.

For  a permanent  installation in a trailer, camper or motorhome You would need  both a dc to dc converter  for the vehicle charging system  and a solar controller for  solar panel   charging .. Both  can  be connected to the battery(ies) at the same time.

Once more,  I  built a power box / power station I  can sit on a picnic table and  have 1,000w  120v AC,  12v DC  and  USB outlets available from it  or take in my tin boat to run the electric outboard.

Here is a link to the dc to dc converter I used.

https://roadwarrior-inc.com/ca/product/dc-to-dc-charger-for-12v-lightningvolt-battery/?srsltid=AfmBOoqxP0NNDb9-SQ4Wih5q3dZM94Xpj3vC-oar5cEEqBSZf-h81q5c

 That link will take you to their  Canadian  address . Search  the  US address   for   one  there.

[mikeexplorer]

18 hours ago, davefrombc said:

I'm using a DC to DC converter to take the 12v  from a vehicle alternator  to   output  14.2 to 14.6v  to  charge the LiFePO4  battery in  my Power  station( power box)  from an accessory  socket.  Output to the  power box is only 8 amps max . The  DC to DC converter can also act as an MPPT  controller for solar input.  It doesn't do  both  at the same time.  I  connect  either a solar panel  or an accessory plug to  it depending on which  charge source  I'm going to  use.  

I  put  an Anderson  power pole connector on the input  so  I  could make the switch in inputs easily.  I  couldn't use  one with a higher amperage output because the amp draw from the  accessory socket  would be to  high and pop the fuse on it since they are typically only 10 to 15A  output  sockets.

What I did building my  Power Box ( b Power station)  is entirely different than  what you are doing  and  charging parameters for  LiFePO4  batteries  are  much different than  charging lead acid ones  in their various forms.

For  a permanent  installation in a trailer, camper or motorhome You would need  both a dc to dc converter  for the vehicle charging system  and a solar controller for  solar panel   charging .. Both  can  be connected to the battery(ies) at the same time.

Once more,  I  built a power box / power station I  can sit on a picnic table and  have 1,000w  120v AC,  12v DC  and  USB outlets available from it  or take in my tin boat to run the electric outboard.

Here is a link to the dc to dc converter I used.

https://roadwarrior-inc.com/ca/product/dc-to-dc-charger-for-12v-lightningvolt-battery/?srsltid=AfmBOoqxP0NNDb9-SQ4Wih5q3dZM94Xpj3vC-oar5cEEqBSZf-h81q5c

 That link will take you to their  Canadian  address . Search  the  US address   for   one  there.

 

I replaced the battery on my trailer with a  LiFePO4 this past year The solar panel I have the controller does not have a  LiFePO4 option (it is older one) but what you are saying it isn't needed as long as I regulate the voltage down to 14.6. The battery has its own charge controller?

 

[davefrombc]

No.. The battery  has a battery Management Service ( BMS ) built in to  protect it from  over charge / discharge  and temperature. It does not have a built in  charge controller ,  only a protection module.  Charge parameters are  similar but not the same as  Lion  batteries ..  In  applications like you have on your trailer,  you should have a DC to DC  converter for the input from  your vehicle alternator  AND a  solar controller with an LiFePO4 setting,, preferably MPPT  for your solar system . Both can be connected to the battery  at the same time.  AGAIN,,   I  built a Power Box ( Power Station)  it is not an installation on an RV  or trailer.  The DC to DC unit I  used can  work to  charge the battery  from an alternator ,,  OR a solar system , not both at the same time.

[davefrombc]

Please  people  search on LiFePO4  batteries and their uses in solar systems, RV's and motor homes/ trailers,. Why  solar controllers and  DC to DC converters  are recommended and needed in some cases. I  cannot explain it all here . 

[mikeexplorer]

17 hours ago, davefrombc said:

No.. The battery  has a Battery Management Service ( BMS ) built in to  protect it from  over charge / discharge  and temperature. It does not have a built in  charge controller ,  only a protection module.  Charge parameters are  similar but not the same as  Lion  batteries ..  In  applications like you have on your trailer,  you should have a DC to DC  converter for the input from  your vehicle alternator  AND a  solar controller with an LiFePO4 setting,, preferably MPPT  for your solar system . Both can be connected to the battery  at the same time.  AGAIN,,   I  built a Power Box ( Power Station)  it is not an installation on an RV  or trailer.  The DC to DC unit I  used can  work to  charge the battery  from an alternator ,,  OR a solar system , not both at the same time.

There is no connection from the battery to the vehicle. Although the trailer plug is 7 pin, since the trailer is single axle it has no brakes. I charge the battery with a proper charger I bought for the battery using a generator at night. 

The solar panel I used with the old battery, but the controller does not have a LiFePO4 setting so I don't use it now.

 

[davefrombc]

3 hours ago, mikeexplorer said:

There is no connection from the battery to the vehicle. Although the trailer plug is 7 pin, since the trailer is single axle it has no brakes. I charge the battery with a proper charger I bought for the battery using a generator at night. 

The solar panel I used with the old battery, but the controller does not have a LiFePO4 setting so I don't use it now.

 

OK... Solar controllers aren't  expensive so  I'd recommend getting a new one with the LiFePO4 setting. A cheaper  PWM  one will work  but  one with MPPT  is more efficient.. Do you have 12v at the  7 pole  socket on you vehicle? If so  you  could run  a wire  from it to  a  DC to DC charge converter like I  use on my  Power box to  charge the battery from your vehicle..On many  vehicles the  DC to DC  isn't entirely necessary if their output  is steady,but  they  don't bring the battery to  it's  full  charge since they're designed to stop charging when  voltage  reaches 13.2 to 13.8v and  LiFePO4  wants 14.2 to 14.4v  for full  charge.  Some alternators  have their voltage unstable  with  a fair difference  between idle  and and  max rev's driving..  The BMS  in the battery likes stable voltage and and  can  trip  if   it is too  unstable for it's liking.. Is your trailer only wired for 12v dc  or  does it also  have an  inverter  for  120v AC? A  100Ah LiFEPO4  battery  can  only  run an  inverter  up to a max of 1200w output since it's limited to 100 A continuous  output max.  To  run  a larger inverter you have to go to  two  100Ah LiFePO4  batteries in  parallel.

[mikeexplorer]

The vehicle has 7 pin plug but the trailer side does not use it. I am not concerned about charging the battery when towing because when I have the tent trailer put away. It is hooked up to a 3 amp tender (yes rated for the battery) So its fully charged when I am headed out to camp. I do have on hand a 200 watt inverter if I need. Generally at night I run a generator. 

The solar panel I have is bulky and only 100 watts (the one with the older controller. I do have on hand a thinner 200 watt one I am thinking of using and I do have a newer controller for it. I just have to figure where I am going to put it.

 

[davefrombc]

57 minutes ago, mikeexplorer said:

The vehicle has 7 pin plug but the trailer side does not use it. I am not concerned about charging the battery when towing because when I have the tent trailer put away. It is hooked up to a 3 amp tender (yes rated for the battery) So its fully charged when I am headed out to camp. I do have on hand a 200 watt inverter if I need. Generally at night I run a generator. 

The solar panel I have is bulky and only 100 watts (the one with the older controller. I do have on hand a thinner 200 watt one I am thinking of using and I do have a newer controller for it. I just have to figure where I am going to put it.

 

If your tent trailer is a hard top  you could mount your solar panel (s) to it.  LiFePO4  batteries  have different charging profiles than  both lead acid and  Li ion  ones.   I  don't know anyone who  keeps their  LiFePO4 batteries on a tender (maintainer) so  I can't really offer an opinion  on that..  Your use  of  the  LiFePO4  battery is entirely  different than   mine.

I  built my Power Station ( Power box) to be a portable source of 1000w / 110v pure sine wave AC, and 12v DC from  either a 12v accessory socket  or up to  100 A output to  run an electric trolling motor  and 12v power tools.  Commercial  Power  stations I  am aware of don't offer the  high amperage 12v output to go with their  AC  and 10 to 15 A  the  give at their  accessory socket.  

That was the re4ason for my initial question .. T  see if  others have  or use a  Power Station ( power box)  in their outdoor  activities, whether it be  out on the trails  with an  ATV ,  in  camp  or  out  on their boat.

[mikeexplorer]

It is a soft tent so roof mount not possible. When I camp I have plenty of space to put out a solar panel if needed.

What I meant by "where to put it" is the solar controller. It is not part of the fold up panel. 

 

[davefrombc]

What output connections does your cable from your  folding panel use? Mc4, 5521 barrel,  or XT60?     Most  solar controllers have a socket to  connect a 5521 input and you can get adapters  to  go from  whatever the  cable end is to the inputs of the  controller ..  You can  make a quick  connect pair to  connect your controller to the battery Store the  controller, cable and  controller to  battery adapter  with the solar panel.. That way you  don't need to  permanently  mount the controller to your trailer. 

With a portable setup like that  you could make an adapter to go from the controller output to  alligator clips so you could use your portable solar setup to  charge any  12 or 24V .battery since most new controllers are programmable for 12 / 24 volt output to any lead acid or  LiFePO4 battery.  You  would  just have to re3member if  you were going to  charge a battery type different than your  trailer one.

[mikeexplorer]

The controller I have for it is bad, One of the buttons is broken so I cannot select the battery type 😕 

Panel comes with wires that have two connectors on it, forget the name of them, then they gave me different adapters for different types of power stations. 

I have a 2 pin connector already at the battery box I use for the tender, I was just going to plug into that if I use the panel, but first I have to replace the controller. (out of warranty of course)

 

[davefrombc]

OK.. The panel likely  has the MC4  "waterproof" connectors .  I  just did a search on Amazon for solar controllers and came up with this one  among all the others. It looks like it would be ideal for you if your solar panels have  MC4 connectors . I suspect  the cable from the solar  panels you  have aren't MC4  on both ends so  you would need to replace it  since that  controller is only MC4 input.

Here is the controller I  found on  Amazon 

https://www.amazon.com/Charge-Controller-Type-C-LiFePO₄-Battery/dp/B0DGP8YMGD/ref=sxin_18_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.5a2f80d8-3686-499a-bbaa-70664bd0de70%3Aamzn1.sym.5a2f80d8-3686-499a-bbaa-70664bd0de70&crid=1GCIO4YGOLTNF&cv_ct_cx=MPPT+solar+controller&keywords=MPPT+solar+controller&pd_rd_i=B0DGP8YMGD&pd_rd_r=fd470b51-a005-4e0a-bebd-3e00107e5b72&pd_rd_w=hv9Zg&pd_rd_wg=VKAcc&pf_rd_p=5a2f80d8-3686-499a-bbaa-70664bd0de70&pf_rd_r=2J7MHQA0QB01JV4E6G1J&qid=1758461740&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=mppt+solar+controller%2Caps%2C171&sr=1-2-6024b2a3-78e4-4fed-8fed-e1613be3bcce-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&psc=1

[mikeexplorer]

Oh that is perfect. Has the 2 pin connector that I have on the battery box. Yes the solar panel side is those connectors

Cool, thanks for sharing the link

 

[davefrombc]

I  am  not a great fan  of the SAE 2 pin connectors for the simple reason  they can be reverse connected. By convention the power end  ( connected to a battery)  has the positive side covered and the negative exposed. The accessory o be  powered  has the exposed positive  and the negative covered..  But in the  case of a battery charger, they are reversed with positive exposed and the negative covered.. It is too easy to err when  putting connectors on a project  and the unwary can  make all the smoke leak out by  misconnecting things.. That's the beauty of  Anderson connectors. They are polarized so they  can  only  connect positive to positive and negative to negative .  That is   as long  as they  are wired correctly to start with..

The MC4  connectors  are almost universal  on solar panels and cables because they are  waterproof (  actually water resistant) but they share the  accidental  reverse connecting problem  of the SAEs

Edited September 25, 2025 by davefrombc

[mikeexplorer]

8 hours ago, davefrombc said:

I  am  not a great fan  of the SAE 2 pin connectors for the simple reason  they can be reverse connected. By convention the power end  ( connected to a battery)  has the positive side covered and the negative exposed. The accessory o be  powered  has the exposed positive  and the negative covered..  But in the  case of a battery charger, they are reversed with positive exposed and the negative covered.. It is too easy to err when  putting connectors on a project  and the unwary can  make all the smoke leak out by  misconnecting things.. That's the beauty of  Anderson connectors. They are polarized so they  can  only  connect positive to positive and negative to negative .  That is   as long  as they  are wired correctly to start with..

The MC4  connectors  are almost universal  on solar panels and cables because they are  waterproof (  actually water resistant) but they share the  accidental  reverse connecting problem  of the SAEs

Agree you have to be careful, but I have used these with my camper trailer for all my connections and as long as I keep that in mind, I have not had any issues. I just keep this in mind when wiring

Source side - Positive covered

Load side - Positive exposed

Charger - Positive exposed

So for the solar controller it would be #3. I already have that connector on the battery box which I currently use for a charger when the trailer is sitting at home. (I used to use AGM battery) I probably don't have to tender the Lithium like I did. but I figure it doesn't hurt since it shuts off when charged. I also use that port when camping to connect to a 12 volt pump for our portable shower. The only thing I have to do is bump it up, currently fused to 7.5 amps so I may have to change it to a thicker wire and higher fuse for the controller. No big deal. 

I don;t need solar power much. The lithium battery would probably last all weekend without charging. My main draw is a 12 volt refrigerator which when running pulls 3.5 amps. (Gotta keep the beers cold) Other power draws are lights (LED so they are next to nothing), fans if needed, and USB chargers for the phone and anything else USB powered. 

I plan to use this panel if we are at a campground that prohibits generators. 

 

[davefrombc]

Yes the SAE connectors are fine,  just a gotcha for the unwary.  You won't need to  increase the wire size.if you used at least 14 gauge wire.  14 gauge   will handle up to 15A. . When  using the 200w solar panel  the panel  is not likely to  output more than 10 t0 12 amps under even   absolutely ideal conditions..  Boost the fuse to  15A if using a 200w solar panel to input  but the  7.5A  might be enough for the 100w one. 

To  be sure with the 100w panel go to a `10A fuse. Is your 12v fridge  piezoelectric or a fridge/freezer one that uses a 12v compressor?..  My 12v 50L  fridge/freezer   pulls  between 4 and 5A  on  start but runs at  around 1.8A. If your fridge  drew the 3.5A  steady over 24 hours it would deplete the 100Ah  battery ( pull  just over 1000Wh  out of the 1280Wh battery)

[shorty]

Awesome power box, thanks for sharing the picture. I had something similar to run an electronic cooler but the cooler was kinda crappy. I like my beer REALLY cold. The compressor coolers are colder but consume more power, especially if it starts and stops. Startup power is high enough to trip any auto-shutdown

[davefrombc]

2 hours ago, shorty said:

Awesome power box, thanks for sharing the picture. I had something similar to run an electronic cooler but the cooler was kinda crappy. I like my beer REALLY cold. The compressor coolers are colder but consume more power, especially if it starts and stops. Startup power is high enough to trip any auto-shutdown

I  have a 12v   cooler / freezer I  run  on my power box..  It is compressor  type, not thermo-electric  and can be set from about 40F to  -4 .  Things like larger 120v ac  motor driven  tools, appliances` ,and microwave ovens can draw up to 3  and 4x their rated power  so  most can  only be run  by  the  most powerful  power stations  of at least 2000w.   Lights and resistive loads like lights,a coffee pot or  electric kettle  will work  on  1000w  power stations as long as their rated power is 1,000w  or less..   Technically  resistive loads draw their rated  power on start  while inductive  and capacitive  loads  can draw 3 times or more thah their rated power on start up.

 

Edited September 28, 2025 by davefrombc

[mikeexplorer]

On 9/28/2025 at 3:19 PM, shorty said:

Awesome power box, thanks for sharing the picture. I had something similar to run an electronic cooler but the cooler was kinda crappy. I like my beer REALLY cold. The compressor coolers are colder but consume more power, especially if it starts and stops. Startup power is high enough to trip any auto-shutdown

Look into a 12 volt car refrigerator. I have one I use for camping to keep the beers cold. (sometimes food too) I can set it down to -15 degrees if I want to use it as a freezer. It's typical draw at 12 volts is 3 amps in eco mode, or 5 amps in max mode. It is a compressor type with soft starter. Works great and I can run a long weekend on battery power.

 

[davefrombc]

There may be other  US sites with as good or better deals, but I got my 12v fridge  / freezer from  Vevor  on their Canadian site . Mine came with a 12v  power cord to run the  fridge and a 120V ac to 12v dc power supply to  run the fridge off  house current.  

Here is the link to the Canadian site.

https://www.vevor.ca/s/58-qt.-cooler-,-freezer 

[shorty]

2 hours ago, mikeexplorer said:

Look into a 12 volt car refrigerator. I have one I use for camping to keep the beers cold. (sometimes food too) I can set it down to -15 degrees if I want to use it as a freezer. It's typical draw at 12 volts is 3 amps in eco mode, or 5 amps in max mode. It is a compressor type with soft starter. Works great and I can run a long weekend on battery power.

 

Compressor with soft start.. very good, usually the compressor type is colder than the electronic coolers. Thanks 

[mikeexplorer]

22 hours ago, davefrombc said:

There may be other  US sites with as good or better deals, but I got my 12v fridge  / freezer from  Vevor  on their Canadian site . Mine came with a 12v  power cord to run the  fridge and a 120V ac to 12v dc power supply to  run the fridge off  house current.  

Here is the link to the Canadian site.

https://www.vevor.ca/s/58-qt.-cooler-,-freezer 

Basically what I have by a different manufacturer. I have been using mine for 4 years now and it has worked great.

Last year I bought a dual-zone version so I can keep a few ice packs frozen for warmer weather when we ride. The first unit was screwy (Fed-ex dropped the package when delivering it) so they sent me a second one and told me to keep the old one. Awhile later I took it apart and found a few wires had come loose or broke, so I fixed them, and volia! it works normally now. Cool!

 

[jen]

I have the Igloo12 vdc cooler that is a few years old but works great.  No temp setting gets very cold but not freezing.  Grandma wants a 12 vdc freezer for her car.  What mfg is best....small to fit in her car.

[davefrombc]

3 hours ago, jen said:

I have the Igloo12 vdc cooler that is a few years old but works great.  No temp setting gets very cold but not freezing.  Grandma wants a 12 vdc freezer for her car.  What mfg is best....small to fit in her car.

I'll likely see lots of argument , but I'd  choose the least expensive offering  of a 12v fridge / freezer in the size you want.. Nearly all of them are  made in China or elsewhere in Asia and the same box can  have all sorts of names tacked on it ,along with prices from  low to ridiculous  "No Name"  to  " Luxury Name".  All  the fridge / freezers are compressor types, and heavier than a similar sized electronic  cooler only.  I  like my Vevor,  Mike likes his  similar machine .  I  suggest searching on " 12v fridge / freezer"  to see the online offerings from the various vendors. Choose the size you want and price you're willing to pay,  after checking on the units  specs.  Vevor offers  ones from  10  quart mini' up. The myriad of offerings are made by various companies  and have the Vevor  name badge on them. Find  one you like,  compare  it to  other hits you see with   different names on them and make your choice.   Just a side note .. My  unit  listed at $298  CAD is the same capacity as a friends  unit with a "name brand" that cost  over $1,000 CAD  bought at a brick and  mortar  store.

Here is a link to  the  myriad offerings at  Vevor.com   ( USA site) Check  their offerings and  others  and compare  

https://www.vevor.com/s/car-refrigerator-cooler     

 

Edited October 1, 2025 by davefrombc

[jen]

Thanks...her Christmas Present...One of them LOL

She buys a couple lambs, usually 4-H lambs, butchered  and frozen from Butcher shops.   There are no butcher shops  on the peninsula Florida; so she orders from Ohio and  W VA slaughter houses..  She I (and I) drive up to visit family and bring lambs back to Florida.   She's happy and I love lamb.

[mikeexplorer]

7 hours ago, jen said:

I have the Igloo12 vdc cooler that is a few years old but works great.  No temp setting gets very cold but not freezing.  Grandma wants a 12 vdc freezer for her car.  What mfg is best....small to fit in her car.

That is probably one of those pielter coolers, I had an Igloo one for years. If you reversed the power cord it became a warmer. They are only capable of dropping like 30 degrees below ambient temperature. Compared to the newer units we have been discussing, it is also a power hog. Typically draws 5 amps continuous. These newer compressor models are much more efficient and you can set the temperature. 

 

5 hours ago, davefrombc said:

I'll likely see lots of argument , but I'd  choose the least expensive offering  of a 12v fridge / freezer in the size you want.. Nearly all of them are  made in China or elsewhere in Asia and the same box can  have all sorts of names tacked on it ,along with prices from  low to ridiculous  "No Name"  to  " Luxury Name".  All  the fridge / freezers are compressor types, and heavier than a similar sized electronic  cooler only.  I  like my Vevor,  Mike likes his  similar machine .  I  suggest searching on " 12v fridge / freezer"  to see the online offerings from the various vendors. Choose the size you want and price you're willing to pay,  after checking on the units  specs.  Vevor offers  ones from  10  quart mini' up. The myriad of offerings are made by various companies  and have the Vevor  name badge on them. Find  one you like,  compare  it to  other hits you see with   different names on them and make your choice.   Just a side note .. My  unit  listed at $298  CAD is the same capacity as a friends  unit with a "name brand" that cost  over $1,000 CAD  bought at a brick and  mortar  store.

Here is a link to  the  myriad offerings at  Vevor.com   ( USA site) Check  their offerings and  others  and compare  

https://www.vevor.com/s/car-refrigerator-cooler     

 

I have several Vevor diesel heaters and so far they have worked well. 

 

[jen]

Yes you are right about the Igloo being a power hog..  Grandma's works well especially if you put in a freezer before using it.   Its good traveling keeping sandwiches , cheese  milk cold ---I don't drink beer..LOL.    I marked the connector "UP" so people would not put it in wrong.     But i am looking at the compressor units for her.   However, I may look for a different connector in the car...I hate those cigarette lighter plug connectors.