Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!
As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery. Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.
Let me start with I have about 30 years of ATC experience, but not much with stuff made after 1988. Some, but I'm mechanically inclined so it's all good. I"m rehabbing a 1997 Bayou 220 to send back into the wild and the mechanicals are now all good, just working on making the electrical system...electric. Right now, I have no power on the white wire as tested directly on the plug at the starter solenoid. I'm assuming that wire is supposed to be hot any time it's attached to a battery? The genius that had it before snipped a couple wires and inserted a fairly heavy push button for electric start bypassing the electrical system. I think i've corrected everything north of the solenoid but the white wire has me stumped. Is my assumption that this should always be hot with a hot battery correct? Does this indicate a broken circuit in the starter solenoid? Relay was also bad and wired incorrectly, but that's resolved and I can make the relay click bypassing the solenoid and connector, directly giving the white wire 12V. Thoughts?
I have a 2003 Kodiak 450 that i purchased a while back with around 300 hours on it. It has never ran right from the beginning. Initially i thought it was just a carburetor issue because it was all clogged up from sitting for months. It has been cleaned, rebuilt, and taken off probably about 10 times troubleshooting this problem. I have quadruple checked everything including float height ect and it is set correctly, the jets are also brand new, needle and seat have been pressure tested as well. So after all of that I am convinced that the carburetor is not the culprit. I have an issue where the idle is very choppy, almost as if it is misfiring with a rich condition on top of that. I can use a brand new plug and run the machine for just a few minutes and it will be a dry and and coated in black carbon build up. The exhaust also has a strong smell at idle. I had trouble restarting it when hot for a while, but i adjusted the valves and it seemed to solve that issue. They were both way out of tolerance (tight). The weird thing is, outside of idle it seems to run pretty well.
So with all that being said I have ruled out the carb/valves/compression and moved on to the ignition and this is where i have a few questions about factory specifications. I guess the main question I have is, how strict are these tolerances? And could them being off by this amount cause the issue I am having? Do all three of these parts really need to be replaced? I would like to know before I spend the money on these new parts, and it not fix my problem. Below I will list what the specs were in the service manual along with the reading i got. This is my first experience testing ignition components. I just found it odd that all 3 are out of spec according to the service manual.
Spark plug cap resistance: 10 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F)
My Reading: 8.90 kΩ
Primary coil resistance: 0.18 ~ 0.28 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
My Reading: Fluctuated between 0.4 - 0.5 Ω
Secondary coil resistance: 6.32 ~ 9.48 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F)
Reading was within the specified range.
Pickup coil resistance: 459 ~ 561 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
Reading was within specified range.
Rotor rotation direction sensing coil resistance: 0.085 ~ 0.105 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
My reading was 0.3 Ω
By mike costa
Motor starts right up, but when I open it up past quarter throttle it bogs way down while ridding, the longer it runs the worse it gets. If I just leave it in neutral and give it full throttle it revs up and down.
Bike sat for 3 years,
Installed new plug, cleaned the fuel tank, took it to a shop and had the carburetor gone though.
Picked up from shop, motor bogged down first day and barely got me back to the truck an 1 mph.
Took back to shop after a month I was told it had a bad plug, I told him I just replaced it.
Got quad home and it is doing the same thing!!!!!!!!!
Thanks in advance for your support!
The carburetor has recently been gone through by a shop
By Jeff Comstock
Help a brother four legger out
Bayou300 acts like it's flooding if it's it's in the Alabama sun all day but, I've cleaned the carb. Sometimes it'll backfire even though the timing and valve lash are in spec. Thought it was sticking float but after 2 times cleaning the carb I'm lost. So
Similar Tagged Content
UTV Crap has introduced an alternator kit for the Kawasaki Teryx that quickly and reliably boosts your Teryx charging capacity. With an additional 60 amps, there is no more worrying about adding lights, stereos or heated seats.
UTV Crap Teryx 750 60 Amp Alternator Kit.
Smaller 60 Amp Alternator
Easy 1 Wire Hook Up
2 Cog Style Pulleys for Less Horse Power Loss and Less Stress on the Crank
Heavy Duty Cog Style BeltCustom Billet Crank Mounts
$474.95 Complete Kit Ready to Bolt on!
UTV Crap also has an alternator kit for the Yamaha Rhino for $349.95
About UTV Crap:
UTV Crap sells, manufactures and installs: parts, accessories and suspension kits for all major UTVs. UTV Crap is located in Phoenix, AZ can can be reached online at www.utvcrap.com or by calling 623.934.3070
I just picked up a 2008 Kawasaki Teryx 750 LE 4x4 and am looking for Wench Suggestions. It was used by an old man to check his mail and only has 30 hours on it! I intend to use this on my very steep property like a small tractor. I had a old Ford 1220 Tractor and with its high center of gravity and lack of 4 wheel drive it was useless!
To the point, I am looking a wench suggestions to help my new tool do its job! Even though the front bumper is drilled for a wench, I understand that I need a wench plate and that some wenches will not fit without body mods. Does 3500 Lbs capacity sound right?
Recently Browsing 0 members
No registered users viewing this page.