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Similar Forum Topics
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By Suzukiquad
Hi, I have been around everything with a motor since I was little, and finally purchased more to get my husband, and kids involved. I have 4 quads I will be searching around for information on. I have two 2002 Suzuki LT80K quads, a 1997 Yamaha Timberwolf 250, and a 1996 Kawasaki Bayou 220. I have had different ones throughout the years, and plan on buying another Yamaha Banshee. I plan on trying to learn more about all of them, so I can customize some of them. I know nothing about them besides how to race them, my dad always took care of the rest, but figured it was time for me to learn.
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By kawasig
Hello All
I'm kinda new to ATVs. I just bought a 1987 Suzuki quad runner 230 Dual Range. I'm having a problem finding info on it. It's very clean, only 2.800 miles. The front wheels are only 30 in.center to center. I was thinking about adding wheel spacers to give it more stability. I realize the added stress on ball joints and bearings. I'm wondering if there are any other concerns? Any input is greatly appreciated!
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By Atomusthenes
This topic is being opened to discuss the feasibility of forced induction on small engines.
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By neilroy87
I have a 1990 Bayou 220 that runs pretty well for it's age--needs a new muffler, but sounds tough. Have had to start with a pull cord since I got it, and recently started troubleshooting the start button. Finding a lot of information on this issue in the forum, but haven't been able to chase it down yet. Got a new battery, new starter solenoid, and going to replace the starter relay this week, but not convinced that's going to do the trick, since I can't get the neutral light on when turning the key on. I can start it by jumping the solenoid, but the 2 black wires to the relay do not activate the starter. Bad ground or a short somewhere? Is there a good way to just test the ground?
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By jhamrick75
If anyone is having issues with the Mikuni VM24SS carb, I thought I would post what issues I had and how I resolved them.
Acquired a 93 Bayou 220 that had sat for over 4 years.
The carb was extremely corroded and pitted and full of leftover fuel.
Cleaned carb and bowl and was able to get the engine to start.
Within 30 seconds exhaust would heat up and start to glow red hot.
Removed carb and recleaned everything, including a second overnight soak.
Needless to say, after removing the carb for the 5th time and my frustration to the limit I
realized that my attention had been to the carb body and not to the bowl.
There is a small brass rod on the bottom of the carb that goes down into the float bowl but is seperated from the main section. I had cleaned that area very well....I had thought.
***The corrosion had sealed off the channel that runs from the main bowl section to the small tube section on the side of the float bowl. No amount of carb cleaner was going to get it to budge. So i took a small nail and started to scrape away the corrosion and was eventually able to dislodge enought of the corrosion that carb cleaner would flow through that channel. ***
I thoroughly cleaned each side of the channel in the float bowl and reinstalled the carb and now the issue of it running lean is gone.
On a second note the fuel mixture screw was a nightmare to remove as the threads had been corroded and wouldnt let the screw come out. I used a little cutting oil and worked the mixture screw in and out until I was able to push past the corroded threads and completely remove the needle. After a couple passes with a tap to clean the threads it is like new again.
Hope this helps if you are having a lean running machine.
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