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By Machias_Mike
Hi all,
Just looking for a second opinion before I start ordering parts. It looks like from the below tests it must be a failing stator.
Background - quad runs fine but when I use winch it will drain battery, I can then pull start but even after running for 20 mins if I turn it off, battery still dead and does not seem to get charged at all. Voltage at battery after charging using trickle charger is 12.5. Start up and voltage shows 13.1 at idle, if I rev it up voltage drops to 12.5. LED lights also flicker at night even with fully charged battery. Really more annoying than anything and if it is stator I prob will not change until it becomes more of an issue or maybe during next oil change.
Thanks for looking, appreciate any replies!
Stator plug and letters show how I tested.
[ ] A [ ]
B C
[ ]
Checked resistance on stator (manual says .1 to .7)
A = .7
B = OL
C= OL
Voltage idle and 3/4 throttle
A = 31/55
B = 15/33
C = 15/32
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By Hagbard
Have a long story that I'll attempt to make brief. I picked up what was advertised as a 1987 LT230E with no cam or valve cover, harness dangling, no plastics, and all kinds of slop in every bushing and bearing, but hey, it was free and I love a challenge. Local guy had a couple 87 230E motors he was selling on craigslist, picked up one of those and a pisspounded DG RCM and header for $100. Went through the harness to start sorting things out and noticed a few key differences, like the stator connectors didn't mate up, one round and one square. Rubbed some of the grime off and found a VIN, Lo and behold - I have a 1990 LT160E, not a 1987 230E... By the grace of who knows what, the 230 just so happened to mount up directly to the 160 frame with no mods. Wasn't until I had broken the seal on starting to chase down the harness leads that I found out.
As it stood, advertised as a 1987 230E
After a bit of elbow grease and some eBay raiding.
Made a new seat cover and found a set of plastics, New carrier bearings, and brakes all around.
Pulled the steering and front suspension all apart and gave it some love with new bushings and tie rods
Ordered a small fortune in NOS and China parts from eBay and RockyMountain and after a couple weeks of wrenching and soldering I have a nearly complete wheeler, in pretty decent shape. Cleaned up a Mikuni carb I had laying around and mounted it up with a cone filter and a Lowe's Racing™ intake boot, and fed it some gas, primed the carb and tugged on the started rope a few times, and sure enough it belkched out some soot and fired up, ran for a couple seconds and died. No sputter, just shut off. Checked for fuel startvation, vacuum in the tank, no problems there, plenty of gas in the carb. Suspected clogged air jets, so I pulled it out of the boot and gave it a shot of ether, and it did the same thing, fired up, ran strong for 2-3 seconds and shut off. Then suspected I f*%#ed up the wiring harness somewhere, and re-traced all the leads with my newly colored wiring diagram, thanks to my kiddo's Crayola marker collection, and everything looked good. Started to suspect the CDI, solenoid, or coil might be faulty and was flipping thru the manual when a buddy stopped by with a pair of boat seats for me to reupholster for him.
He's a little bit of a savant with engines and electronics, and he got curious when I told him my predicament. Three minutes later he said "Hand me a pair of needlenose?" which he used to short the neutral switch to ground, and had me give it another tug. Fired up and ran great, no shutting off, so we deduced that the neutral switch must be at fault and after he left, I pulled it off to troubleshoot, and decided to flick the shifter a couple times with it off to see the little nubbin go around in a cricle. It didn't. I should mention at this point that I had previously changed the oil and while doing so, I took the opportunity to adjust the clutch without consulting the manual because I'm the dumbest guy I know. I did it according to the procedure I had learned for the LT185 I have, and figured the adjuster itself looked the same, they must be the same thing. I loosened the 10mm lock nut, and started turning the adjsuter screw clockwise waiting to encounter resistance, and then back it off 1/8 turn. I was really surprised when it kept turning and turning, but figured it must have been WAY out of adjustment, and went on with business. Figured I might need clutch plates at some point.
Encountered this problem, and actually read the manual and the procedure is entirely different, and I realized that I had basically "adjusted" it into oblivion. I have since drained the oil and tried to re-adjust it twice, with no luck. Anyone have any idea what I can or should do to correct the issue, or am I missing something else entirely here? (chain is off and sprocket nut is loose, if that makes any difference.) Any insight or advice would be appreciated, thanks.
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By alexwv1863
Hey everyone, I have an issue with my dad's 03 Yamaha Kodiak 400. It had been running great but he left it sitting for a short amount of time. When he started it, it ran fine for a little bit but all of a sudden it quit taking gas. I thought it may have been the carb because it him not running it. The carb ended up being pretty clean. He put it back on and after taking it off and cleaning again, I'm beginning to wonder what it could be. It'll start and idle just fine, but when you go to give it throttle, it'll die out. It sounds like it's not getting air right but idk where to look or what else it could be. I'm stumped and need to figure this out before I go crazy. Anyone have any ideas???
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By Admin
View File 2006-2019 Bombardier BRP DS250 Shop Manual
2006-2019 Bombardier BRP DS250 Shop Manual
Submitter Admin Submitted 09/25/2023 Category Can-Am BRP ATV
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By afa913
Do the small 50cc's have a way to set the speed. Im wanting to get one for my kid and i need to set it to go slow. I know the chinese knock off fourwheelers do but i dont really want one of those
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