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Hey, I got a 2007 Suzuki King Quad 700. I took it "squba diving" (not intentionally). I drained it, changed oil a few times, fired right up. My problem is the LCD display, it worked fine at first, then it would work for a minute after start up, now, it's blank, only the backlight works. Suggestions? Thank you.

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boro, welcome to QUADCRAZY! That's a great quad...I'd love to see some pics. :yes:

Anyways, sounds like you either have a bad connection that is shorting due to water or that display is shot, unfortunately. I would probably start by taking that plastic cover off and removing the display. Take it inside and blow dry the heck out of it. Suzuki tries to seal it as best as possible, but it still gets water in there.

* Added year, make, and model, into your thread title.

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  • 2 months later...
  • 3 years later...
Hey, I got a 2007 Suzuki King Quad 700. I took it "squba diving" (not intentionally). I drained it, changed oil a few times, fired right up. My problem is the LCD display, it worked fine at first, then it would work for a minute after start up, now, it's blank, only the backlight works. Suggestions? Thank you.

I have a similar problem on my 2006 KQ. I bought it used and it needed lots of maintenance, which I did..list is too long, but basically every bolt was loose, the headlight pod was missing, the LCD display & gear selector lights did not function, and the suspension bushings all needed replacing...it allegedly had 6000 miles on it and was used as a hunting guide vehicle...so it was run hard and spent a lot of time stored outdoors. The motor had been recently overhauled and upgraded to 800cc at an ATV shop. At least it runs good...

I am VERY mechanical and electrically savvy, but am having troubles with fixing the LCD/Speedometer display. The background light works when the key is on, but none of the LCD display shows any data and the shifter selector lights do not work. I traced out the wiring loom and found a little damaged insulation back on the frame under the seat which I replaced and soldered. That didn't fix it.

I took the connector off to inspect it early in the process and it looks nice and clean and does not show any visible damage. I applied a multimeter to the connector and saw power reading at many of the wires there, but do not know what is normal parameters. I decided to buy a used display on ebay and when I plugged it in it does the exact same thing...

I'm thinking it may be a ground wire or main power wire issue??

I'm looking for ideas on possible remedies as I am a little stuck at this time. Seems like the King Quad tends to have similar LCD display problems a lot.

Edited by frostbite36
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Frostbite, I downloaded it right before I replied to you. There is another sticky thread with manuals. Try the one there.

Sent from my Z10 using Tapatalk

I was able to open it in my PC Laptop. I had trouble using my Samsung Tab-S...weird.

Hopefully I can ID the main issue using the diagrams. I'll post if I find the specific issue so others can learn too....

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I didn't get to it this weekend...but did go riding ☺

I took the time to printout the wiring diagram and match - color coded the printout. It is very small and a little hard to read because of the smallish diagram.

I had been thinking and the main ground, if there is only one common one for the display, must be functioning because of the back light for the display functions.

Is this a bad assumption?

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No, I would not make that assumption. The WDM does not lay out the circuitry inside the module. I would start ringing the wires from the ignition switch because turning the key on should light all that up. When I turn the key on my 09, all the lights on the LCD light up momentarily to verify they are working.

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  • 2 months later...

Finally!!!

Here is my follow up on my problem as I finally got it fixed this weekend! Because I struggled finding folks with much knowledge on this particular issue on forums, I've decided to make a good effort to add my lessons learned on this.

First, after taking the plastic on and off my quad twice now, I've decided that I HATE DOING THIS TASK. It is neither easy or fast. After doing it twice now, I've gotten better and faster, but it is a pretty time consuming activity with the included necessity of pulling my after-market bumpers and gear racks off. I was also forced to take apart the headlight/speedo pod as well, adding to the work. This was definitely necessary as I needed unhindered access to the cable harness, also known as a wire harness, cable assembly, wiring assembly or wiring loom.

My initial checks based on looking at the wiring diagram focused on continuity and voltage checks at the speedometer/display pod and the battery.

First, I did a continuity check to ground...all good there. My second check was the main power from the fuse box to the display pod. It starts as a Red with Black stripe wire at the fuse box and changes at a crimped junction in the wiring-circuit to a Red wire at the pod. Eureka!! No power was making it on that circuit to the pod! Curiously, there is more than one power source into the pod, as the back-light had always functioned, but nothing else.

At this point, I decided to bypass the suspected damaged wiring circuit and used spare wire I had straight from the battery into that wire in the back of the Speedometer Pod. Yes! It worked! As soon as I applied that power, the pod display came fully to life, including the gear selector lights... To say I was happy is an understatement.

Now all I had to do was track down where the break in the circuit was. With all the fender and body plastic removed, I started tracing back from the Speedometer Pod toward the fuse box. Power was present at the fuse box going into the wiring harness. Starting at the front was just a guess. It was necessary to strip off the wiring loom tape covering and all the zip ties that held it to the frame as I went back.

I found that Suzuki uses crimped brass connectors in the wiring harness to form circuit junctions with multiple wires. I had seen this on some autos before, but I personally like all such junctions to be soldered for circuit security and reliability. I immediately suspected one of these junctions would be the likely problem. As I encountered each of these junctions on other circuits in the wiring harness, I took the time to strip off the clear tape, inspect, and solder them so they would not be a problem on the other circuits in the future.

Eventually, I came to the junction where the Red wire from the Speedometer Pod spliced into three Red with Black Stripe wires. This was located just below and in front of the air box along the frame on the left side above the motor (what would be the fuel tank location on most quads). It was immediately apparent this was where the break was as the Red wire fell out of the package of crimped wires. After I stripped away the clear tape, I could see it was corroded and the brass had actually turned green from oxidation. It is not clear what caused this particular junction to corrode while none of the others I encountered had any signs of corrosion (about 6 total that I soldered).

All I did at this point, was solder the connection back together and cover it with heat shrink for good measure. A quick test showed the display now functioned properly with the repaired wiring harness.

Last steps were to re-wrap the wiring harness with high-quality electrical tape, re-attach the harness to the frame with cable ties, and re-assemble the body and speedometer pod assembly. The hardest part of the job was, once again, reassembling the body. I did take the time to cut an access hole to the oil fill/dip-stick which is inconveniently located under a plastic panel on the left side of the quad by the left foot rest; as well as cutting the hole where the wiring harness comes in from under the seat a little larger to easy assembly and future dis-assembly.

MISSION COMPLETE!

Edited by frostbite36
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  • 4 weeks later...

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