230 quadrunner clutch grabing too hard

[ericbascetta]

Hi, I have a 1987 230 quadrunner (electric and pull start) that i'm restoring. So far i've rebuilt the top end, put in a high performance cam, valves and springs, aftermarket exhaust, and lastly new clutch plates and springs.

The engine runs great but my only problem is that when I shift into 1st gear the clutch grabs soo hard that it stalls out the engine (this is the centrifical clutch not manual and I only use my foot to shift).

I can get it moving if I keep on the gas a bit and put it in first and then it works fine through the other gears and grabs awesome. I know its not supposed to do that though because before I could shift into all gears when it was idleing before.

I have a clymer book and followed it but I can't figure out what may be wrong and why it grabs so soon.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated

Thanks

[Raptor8]

prob the new clutch is why it's grabby... are you using motorcycle oil in the case? don't use car oil...

little Hondas have a set screw with a locknut on the case-, does the Suzy have the same setup? If so, loosen the locknut and back the adj screw out a bit and retighten.

Since you have a hot cam you may have to rev it up some before putting it into gear.

Most cam profiles do not add power- they just move the power around. You prob sacrificed some low end and gained some midrange or top end. Kinda have to tinker with it until you find a happy medium.

[ericbascetta]

thanks for the response, i've gotta check on the adj screw because I don't remember seeing one.

Just to clarify the 230 model I have has no clutch lever on the handlebars and its not supposed to stall out in 1st gear even without applying thottle, unlike a manual clutch. It engages as you apply the gas. I just wanted to be clear if you didn't know.

I did notice my clymer book didn't have torque specs for the screws holding the clutch springs, could it be that I have them to tight?

[Raptor8]

It's the same theory as the smaller Hondas with the auto clutch, I don't know where the adjuster is on a suzuki.

Pretty sure the springs should be machined to bottom out at the right setting.

Yes you should be able to drop it into gear at idle without stalling it- sounds like adjusting it should fix it. Brand new clutch plates tend to be a little grabby until they get some time on them.

[ericbascetta]

Thank you very much, i'm gonna take it apart this weekend and see if I can fix.

[quadnut20]

What type of oil are you using ??in the clutch side?

[ericbascetta]

What type of oil are you using ??in the clutch side?

I was just using 10w40 standard car oil, could that be my problem?

[BuckBilly]

I was just using 10w40 standard car oil, could that be my problem?

car oil is not good on the clutches and wont last as long in an atv engine as atv oil. Valvoline makes an awsome atv oil. Also there should be a clutch adjustment on it.

[quadnut20]

Any oil with a moly blend is not good for clutches

[DirtDemon]

There is an adjuster bolt, you may need to back it off a bit because it may have been adjusted as the old clutch got worn. Another possible cause for your problem could be that the idle is too high, have you noticed any change in the idle since you did the work on your quad? Another possibility is that the springs in the clutch shoe for the centrifugal part of the clutch are getting weak, causing the clutch to engage early. I would start with the adjusment bolt, check your Clymer manual for its location and proper adjustment procedures.

[ericbascetta]

Well, i found the adjuster screw for the clutch (it was behid the oil level glass). I turned it out till resistance and then in 1/8 turn, tried it out and still would stall out the quad. So I then turned it in untill resistance and the out 1/8 turn, tried it and still stalled. I'm now using the correct oil btw.

My olld clutch worked fine and I just wanted to do the plates and springs it since I had just rebuild the engine.

I'm really confused now and don't know what to try next any more help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks

[DirtDemon]

You may need check the centrifugal part of the clutch for worn or weak springs or try turning the idle down. It sounds like the centrifugal clutch is engaging too easily.

[ericbascetta]

You may need check the centrifugal part of the clutch for worn or weak springs or try turning the idle down. It sounds like the centrifugal clutch is engaging too easily.

Sounds like that makes sense, but do you think its weird that before I touched the clutch it was working fine and then after just replacing the plates and springs its acting up now?

[DirtDemon]

Not necessarily, if the old clutch was slipping a bit becuase of worn discs or weak springs, you might not notice any problem with the centrifugal clutch because the drive clutch was slipping.

[ericbascetta]

Ok, I finally figured it out! I took apart the clutch and found that the nut holding on the clutch basket(where the discs and springs are) was loose. The clymer book I have tells you to put a penny in the gears to keep it from spinning when tightening. That works for the centrifugal side but not the other for my particular machine. I had to put it in reverse to keep it from spining and then I could get it tight. When I put it all together it worked perfectly.

Thanks for the help and responces guys!

[DirtDemon]

Glad you found that before the nut just came off, that could have been bad.

[Raptor8]

Yeah, I'm happy you stayed at it and found the culprit! It's hard to diagnose when you can't see the rig...