Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey, I cant think of any reasons why, but on my 400ex, when I give it alot of gas and shift through the gears(usually when I get into 3rd) my choke comes on and my wheeler bogs out and dies unless I clutch in and turn the choke off. I cant think of why this would do this. It seems like it started somewhat recently.

Last summer I put a set of rings and valve guides on the 400ex, but ended up gettings rings a bit to big, and the wheeler continued to smoke, so this spring, im going to tear it back down, anyways I wanted to know if anyone knew why the choke was kicking on? I would like to order all my parts at once and do all the work to the wheeler while im doing the topend this spring.

Posted

Thanks for adding the model year, I will add it to the thread title. The only thing I can think of that might cause your choke to is loose, worn parts. I would look into replacing the components of the choke system. I would first take the carb apart and check for any signs of wear to specific parts, that way you don't buy more than you need. BTW, when you tear your machine back down, be sure to check your head for leaks, the smoking could be partly or completely caused by oil leaking past the valve guides/seals. Good luck.

Posted

Thanks for the reply. Im guessing that the choke is due to lose parts, it felt pretty lose but I couldnt find any screws or anything to tighten, ill take a closer look when I have the wheeler apart. As for the valve guides/valve seals, I did the valves last summer, but ill take another look. My guess for the smoke is that oil is getting past my rings, because my rings were all to big. I think my cylinder is just worn, I think ill have to go up a piston size, maybe to an 86mm bore up from the stock 85. But im not sure, ill check it out. Thanks again for the reply :)

Posted

If you did the head, then you are probably right about the rings. You should be able to get piston sets in .5mm increments, so the next size up from stock should be 85.5 if stock is 85. Make sure to have the cylinder measured before buying the piston, just to make sure you haven't worn it to the point that you have to go even bigger. Good luck, hope everything works out well.

Posted

Hey thanks for your reply yet again. That sounds about right to me, last time all I did was rings and the end ring gap was supposed to be .014 for the first and .024 for the second, I was at .034(somewhere in there) and .040(somewhere in there as well) So im guessing/hoping it will be as simple as going up a bore size on the piston..

Just wanted to say thanks again :)

Posted

Anytime, there is actually a thanks tab at the bottom right hand corner of each post, if you want to thank a member officially, you just click that tab and you can add a tag at the bottom of the thread that says that you are thanking said member for this post. I hit the button on your last post to show you how it displays. You are welcome, and don't hesitate to ask more questions if you got them, we are always glad to help out.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Popular Now

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By logray
      Hi all, 

      I am wondering if any of you have a Clutch Starter gear from a 1988 era quadrunner 250 sitting around that you could get me a precise measurement of the outer diameter of the race the sprag engages onto, for me? I need to machine a damaged race down and install a hardened sleeve and need that measurement (it's on a different gear than the OEM one, so I can't buy and use a OEM gear). 

    • By jeffrocdx
      I'm working on a 2002 Polaris Sportsman 400 with shift indicator problems. The indicator panel only will show Neutral and Reverse. If it's in High or Low, the indicator will show "R".
      I have replaced the three position indicator switch on the transmission. There is also a two position switch on the tranny that I didn't replace. If anyone is familiar with this problem, please let me know what I need to do. Any help is greatly appreciated!
    • By quadnut20
      Just picked up a 2025 Yamaha Kodiak 700 fixing to do a EPI Clutch mod to it since I dropped bigger tires on it !! Air box , exhaust , and programmer next ! 

    • By Jason39
      I’m having a issue with my choke when its on it runs fine when I cut the choke off the atv cuts off went to take the carburetor off and saw the choke plunger broke at the nut to screw it in could this be my issue? Do I just need to buy a plunger kit and put it on? I took the carburetor off and cleaned both jets anyway just to make sure and it’s still having issues staying on
         
    • By sunn
      The clutch engagement on my 2021 cforce 400s was approx 2700 RPM, very abrupt/not smooth.   I obtained a "kit" from RNG consisting of a blue painted spring (spring force unknown) with 12 gram weights, as measured on my postal scale.  Installation was easy; 18 mm and 30 mm (not 32 mm as seen on other writings) impact sockets for clutch housing removal.  The resultant clutch engagement was still up to approx 2500 and very abupt/not smooth.
       The original spring was labeled p/n 0951-1021 (specs for spring force 300/1600) with 18 gram weights.
      I called RNG who told me the kit should work fine for my ATV, but that wasn't the case as I found.  
      The RNG spring was slightly longer than the stock spring, but felt slightly easier at initial downward force but had more resistance than stock as I continued to push down.  RNG would not tell me what the spring force was.
      I then tested the clutch with the RNG spring and the OEM 18 gram weights with the resultant engagement RPM of about 2050 RPM, a little smoother engagement but still not good.
      I am really struggling to get any answers on the best combination of spring / weights to achieve a smooth engagement of maybe 1800 RPM.  Note; idle RPM is approx. 1600.
      I have searched all the forums and cannot find good information, and RNG appears to be not willing to share information.  What gives here?  Anyone with experience to share?
×
×
  • Create New...