Do you own an ATV or UTV? Join our Forum!
Join QUADCRAZY ATV Forum today for FREE! We keep these forums clean and user friendly. All first posters will have to wait to have their content reviewed and approved. Once your first post is approved, you will no longer need to got through an approval process. To gain immediate approval and a NO ADS experience, consider subsribing to our Premium Membership.
So, I found myself in the only 5' deep water hole in Moab with the King Quad. Before I could get off it swallowed water at idle and died. The river water was not very clean. I pulled the plug and pumped the water out of it with the starter. I cranked on it and it popped for a second and then was done. Towed it back to the trailer. When I got home I checked the compression and it had none. I have a factory service manual. Disassembled and found the rings stuck in the piston lands. New rings and back together. I try to start it and get a C12 code CKP - crank position sensor. Troubleshoot and find it to be shorted. Installed aftermarket CKP, still get code. Check voltage on new CKP and only get 4.5V, manual calls for 5V minimum. Pulled every connector apart on vehicle and cleaned. Have continuity from CKP sensor side of connector to ECM harness. Install a known good ECM from another 2005 KQ I have. Vehicle fires and I let it run for 10 minutes. Shut it down and put the original ECM in and get a C12 code again and won't fire. Put the known good ECM back in and get C12 and no fire. Tested both ECM's in the other KQ and runs well on both ECM's. Installed a used stator and CKP. Still get a C12 code. Check used stator, 200 ohms and 6.5 V out of the CKP at the ECM harness. Checked ground at ECM harness and it is good. Checked spark with spark plug and without, none. Checked resistance and peak voltage on coil and it is in spec.
This thing has me baffled. All of the electrical possibilities seem to check out. Might be far fetched, but could the rotor key have sheared when it shut down suddenly when the cylinder filled with water? I know rotary lawn mowers can shear the flywheel key when the blade stops suddenly from a rock or stump. If the key is sheared and the flywheel is out of time by a few degrees could this be giving the C12 code? The voltage output is correct but at the wrong crankshaft position (wrong time).
By Dave S
Upper and Lower Michigan, FREE Trail Riding Weekend for ATV/UTV/ORV's in Michigan. Visit:
I own a few older quads mix of kinds a couple of Yamahas, a Honda, can-am a Kawasaki, they are older quads but in good shape the question of the day is....... what's the best way to polish up the plastic?
I have found that Dollar General mold remover is good to get the black stuff off the plastic works good, but was wondering how you polish up the plastics on yours.
I'm hoping someone can help me diagnose my 2008 King Quad 450 no start
A couple days ago, after running for a few hours at low speeds (2-3mph wiping weeds), seat got hot, motor started to stumble, and we turned it off. Gave it a few minutes to cool down, turned on key, dash flickered, then lit up, I tried to start, but it did not turn over, dash died like the battery was dead.
Quad acted like it was overheated, but I noticed a lot of heat coming from battery area. Checked battery voltage, showing 10.5 volts.
I had something similar happen last year, and it ended up being the regulator/rectifier. It killed the battery that time too.
So, this time I pulled the battery, it stayed quite warm for over an hour. Put it on trickle overnight. Next day it showed over 12 volts. Took it to advance auto and had it tested. Bad cell. Bought new battery.
Installed new battery. Now when trying to start, it seems normal, turns over, and begins to start, but immediately dies.
I have ordered a new regulator/rectifier that will get here tomorrow. But today, I pulled the regulator and tested it according to the service manual. Ran a diode test using my multi-meter between all the pins on the regulator. They were all within range according to the service manual.
Unplugged stator, and tested it. Showing 1.9 ohms between all pins. This is out of range. Should be .1-1.0 according to manual. However, I have a brand new spare stator, and that one also reads 1.9 ohms. I'm guessing my multi-meter is the problem?
Used a paper clip to jump pins and put the dash into "dealer mode". Shows C00. No codes.
Last time the regulator failed, I was able to remove the negative battery cable and do a leak test with the multi-meter. I observed a voltage leak, and when I unplugged the regulator, it would stop leaking. This made it clear to me that the regulator was the problem. This time, no voltage leak. Also, last time the regulator failed, it would still run fine with a new battery, it just wouldn't charge. Now it won't stay running for more than a second. I'm thinking this could be something else. Any ideas?
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.