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    • Thank you so much for the detailed reply.. What you described is extremely similar to my 2cycle 225hp Evinrude.....so now I'm getting it... on the johnson/evinrude too the magnets on the flywheel would either fly off (they were glued on) or slide towards each other, thus the voltage created by the stator would not be correct for the CDI/powerpack. When the magnets slid together the symptom would be lower than expected rpms and boat wouldn't get on plane....didn't miss per se, but no umpf the flywheel is behind the pull start right? Thanks again for the explanation...really helps Chris   PS: I don't think the magnets are the issue as when the motor is warming up it runs great and fast....I suspect some thermal related issue....either CDI or coil. Would the voltage regulator/rectifier come into play in the ignition? on my boat the regulator provides 14v to the battery, provides 12 v for the variou accessories and the tach puls for the tachometer....so I COULD remove the regulator and the motor would start...it would burn up the stator, but it would run.
    • I just recently went through a similar problem on my Suzuki Eiger.   Turns out it was my flywheel.   My magnet configuration was off.   The image you posted is called a cdi box.  The cdi is what gets and tells the spark/ignition  when to fire.  The pick up/trigger coil (located by the stator coil) gets its signal from the flywheel which has a small metal tab on it that passes by the pickup/trigger coil.   When is passes by the coil sends a signal to the cdi and that cdi delivers spark to the ignition coil. In some instances the cdi fails when the diodes or the small capacitors inside go bad and the electrical current that's meant to flow in one one direction  no longer does that and creates a haywire flow of current.   If its a capacitor that goes bad inside it usually kills the cdi completely (no spark) when a diode goes bad it allows current to go in either direction and that is where you get the misfire.   unfortunately there is no way to test or repair the cdi box and its an expensive part to gamble on.    Back to the flywheel, the magnets have a glue that holds them in place. That glue has failed on a run for about 3 or 4 years of the artic cat and Suzuki engines.  This allows the magnets to move around and cause havoc on the ignition system.  The way to inspect this is to pull the side cover off and inspect the flywheel magnets.      Start with the flywheel and go from there.   Then inspect the cdi for any moisture or cracks/damage.    It should be located in the rear under the plastics by the storage compartment.  
    • took a ride and played with gas cap when it started acting up...don't think it is the cap or lack of gas when it started happening I took the gas cap of and nothing changed I changed the petcock to PRI and RES and nothing happened differently then out of the blue it was fine for a bit, then happened again. The video below shows that it doesn't appear to be the gas cap   Could it be the coil?  Do you know the ignition system on this thing? What tells the coil to fire? Starting with the stator/magneto wires must be going to the voltage regulator to produce the 14v+ to the battery, as well some wires must be going somewhere to provide 100-200v to something that has capacitors (like a boat's powerpack), then something to trigger that to send the volts to the coil that ups the volts to something like 20-40Kv that goes to plug....right? Again I don't know this machine very well, so no clue what triggers the timing of the spark....I don't think the coil itself would know when to trigger, so a bit in the dark.   oooh found the ignition system for the quadmaster...it HAS a powerpack thingy...now where is it? 🙂  
    • oh shit I think you nailed it. "Or maybe a plugged fuel cap vent causing vaccum lock on the tank?" I DID open the gas cap when it started missing then moved the petcock to PRI then back to ON..... Thank you!! going to get a new cap...once I do one more test.  

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