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these are what i have in my collection ... always looking for more
1985 - 1995 Polaris All Models Service Manual
1996 - 1998 Polaris All Models Service Manual
1996 - 2003 Polaris Sportsman & Xplorer 500 Service Manual
1996 - 2003 Sportsman 400 & 500 ~ Xplorer 500 Service Manual
1999 - 2000 Polaris All Models Service Manual
2001 Polaris 90 Service Manual
2001 Polaris Scrambler 50 ~ 90 Sportsman Service Manual
2001 Polaris Sportsman 500HO Parts Manual
2001 Polaris Sportsman 500 Parts Manual
2002 - 2003 Polaris Sportsman 600 & 700 Servive Manual
2002 Polaris Sportsman 700 Service Manual
2003 - 2005 Polaris Magnum 330 Service Manual
2003 Polaris Predator 500 Service Manual
2003 Polaris Predator Parts Manual
2003 Polaris Trail Blazer 250 Service Manual
2003 Polaris Trail Boss 330 Service Manual Part I
2003 Polaris Trail Boss 330 Service Manual Part II
2003 Polaris Trail Boss 330 Service Manual Part III
2004 Polaris Predator 500 Owner's Manual
2004 Polaris Sportsman Owner's Manual
2005 Polaris 400 & 500 Sportsman Service Manual
2005 Polaris 700EFI Owner's Manual
2005 Polaris 800EFI Owner's Manual
2005 Polaris Sportsman 400 Parts Manual
2005 Polaris Sportsman 500 Parts Manual
2005 Polaris Sportsman 6x6 Owner's Manual
2005 Polaris Sportsman 700EFI & 800EFI Service Manual
2005 Polaris Sportsman 800 Twin EFI Parts Manual
2006 - 2007 Polaris Outlaw 500 Service Manual
2007 Polaris 700 800 800x2 EFI Service Manual
2007 Polaris Ranger 700EFI 6x6 Parts Manual2007 Polaris Ranger 700 4x4 & 6x6 Service Manual
2007 Polaris Ranger XP 4x4 Service Manual
2007 Polaris Sportsman 450 & 500EFI - 500X2EFI Service Manual
2007 Polaris Sportsman 700 800 - 800EFI Service Manual
2008 Polaris Sportsman 500EFI & 500x2 Service Manual
2008 Polaris Ranger 6x6 700EFI Parts Manual
2008 Polaris 800 RZR Service Manual
2008 Polaris Sportsman 700x2 - 800EFI - 800 Touring Service Manual
2009 Polaris 850HD EPS Service Manual
2009 Polaris Outlaw 450 & 525 Service Manual
2009 Polaris Outlaw 90 Service Manual
2009 Polaris Predator 50 Service Manual
2009 Polaris Ranger 2x4 Service Manual
2009 Polaris Ranger 4x4 Crew Service Manual
2009 Polaris Ranger 500 2x4 Service Manual
2009 Polaris Ranger 500EFI 4x4 Service Manual
2009 Polaris Ranger 500EFI 4x4 Service Manual
2009 Polaris Ranger 700 4x4 Crew Service Manual
2009 Polaris Ranger 700 4x4 Service Manual
2009 Polaris Ranger INTL Service Manual
2009 Polaris Ranger RZR 170 Service Manual
2009 Polaris Scramber 500 Service Manual
2009 Polaris Sportsman 300 & 400HO Service Manual
2009 Polaris Sportsman 450 & 500X2 Service Manual
2009 Polaris Sportsman 500 Service Manual
2009 Polaris Sportsman 6x6 800 Service Manual
2009 Polaris Sportsman 800EFI & 800EFI Service Manual
2009 Polaris Sportsman 550XP Service Manual
2009 Polaris Sportsman 850XP Service Manual
2009 Polaris Trail Boss - Trailblazer 330 Service Manual
2010 Polaris Ranger RZR S Service Manual
2011 Polaris Ranger RZR S Service Manual
2011 Polaris Ranger RZR SW Service Manual
2012 Polaris Sportsman 400 Service Manual
Visit the Polaris Service Manual Section: https://www.quadcrazy.com/files/category/7-polaris-atv/
By Joseph Miller
Hi guys im new here and ive been doing alot of research on my polaris predator i was wondering if anyone on here has wired a different cdi up on there quad? Not a direct replacement that would simply just plug in. I know my white an w/red wires go to my pulsar my green an blue go to my reverse coil but im unsure which is + and which is ground also brown/w is a ground correct? What about purple? Black goes to my kill switch and red is my 12v supply........then ive got yelloww/red , yellow / yellow that goes to my rectifier..........any input on this subject is greatly appreciated thank you all
I recently got a 94 Polaris sportsman 400 4x4 from a family member. It just quit on him and has not run in 5 months. I put new fuel in, cleaned the carb, new plug. There's fuel getting to it and a good spark but it will not fire. It will turn over but will not start and I'm lost. Please help.
By Trevor B
Hello. I got this fourwheeler to fix for my buddy. It wasnt starting at all when I got it so I opened the valve cover up and checked the timing and the timing was way off. I set the timing bolted all back together and it started. It only stays running with very little throttle applied. There is a weird noise coming from the engine and it smells like its burning and also smokes from the headers. I posted a video idk how helpful it will be but I need some advice on the next step. I want to say it's the piston and rings, but I'm not too sure was also thinking something was up with the valves. Thought I would get some advice before trying anything. Thanks!
Similar Tagged Content
It´s one debate that doesn´t seem to be going anywhere fast. If you´re buying a brand new winch like the Superwinch Terra 45 or maybe it is just time to replace your old cable. Which way do you go: steel or synthetic? Let´s take a look at the pros and cons so you can decide once and for all which is better for YOU.
Life of the Cable
After an extended period of time depending on use, a steel cable can start to crimp, get rust spots or develop frayed strands of steel cable which can give you nasty cuts and also decrease the reliability of the cable. In the short term, the steel cable can take a lot more abuse than the synthetic variety. However, synthetic cables can have a much longer life. That is of course only if it is taken care of and carefully prevented from fraying on the edges. Fraying edges on a synthetic cable is the beginning of the end for this more costly type of cable. The more affordable steel cables might be more attractive for the rugged wincher who doesn't mind replacing a steel cable at the first signs of wear.
Potential and Kinetic Energy
You don´t need to be a science major to recognize the danger of a cable under extreme tension. Whether it is due to overbearing the cable or a replacement cable is well overdue, it can be a potentially very dangerous situation. In terms of this, Synthetic is generally the winner as it doesn´t become a dangerous projectile. It is also easier on the hands and actually provides more pull per inch. Bear in mind however, that your maximum pulling power is still limited by the winch you select. It´s downside is that if it is in contact with a sharp edge, it has the possibility of slicing or fraying the edges, which is very unlikely with a steel cable.
Some users of synthetic cable have made complaints about UV damage causing weakness that leads to a decrease in strength. Newer synthetic lines are being manufactured UV resistant, and a winch cover is also a cheap solution to this problem.
About 95% of new winches are being shipped by their companies with standard steel winch cables. This can be taken as just because they are the cheaper option of the two for them to make the most profit, or a signal that it is still the best choice of cable.
As I mentioned before, Synthetic does provide you with more pounds per inch. Which means more pulling power for less cable. Even though pulling power is generally determined by the winch, check out this article with tips for both types of cables on how to double your pulling power.
Synthetic is the latest and more expensive cousin, that still has a few kinks to iron out before it really replaces steel cables completely. Steel has been proven in every condition. It is tried and tested and cheaper. For reliability and cost, definitely your cable of choice.
Sam is an ATV enthusiast and updates his adventure website with outdoor tips and articles, including a review on the Superwinch Terra 45 (1145220)
This is my first post and I was wondering if there is anyone who can help me solve a problem I have with my Yamaha Kodiak 400 4x4 Fitted with a Mikuni Carburetor . The year of the quad is around 1998, the reason I am not sure of the date is, there wasn't any paperwork and no details on the frame either.
The quad had a bad leak from the carb overflow which indicated that the float needle valve was blocked or passing so I replaced this and put everything back together. The quad ran really well until I took it onto some rough ground to have a ride around, a few hours later the engine started to run really rough as if the engine was flooding. I have removed the carb again and cleaned the needle valve out and the whole of the carb just in case there where any dirt behind it. Engine now runs fine again but fuel has started to run out the carb overflow again.
I have tried everything to try and stop the fuel leaking out the overflow but its still happening. My last thoughts where to adjust the float level and its still happening.
Has anyone got any thoughts on the problem or could suggest whats causing the fuel leaking out the overflow.
Thanks for reading
Hello, well back to where I was last year with this carb. Took my 250 to the mountains for the first time this year and blue smoke, too much gas again. I can't believe that this carb gives me this much trouble. Seems like the choke is stuck but the cable moves freely. Anyone else ever experience this issue? Do you think a new choke cable would maybe resolve this?http://www.quadcrazy.com/atvforum/images/smilies/arghh.gif
OK it was the choke. Put on all new cable and plunger and she is running 100% again. So now the question is, is the carb getting worn out where the plunger needle goes in the small hole and when I use the choke the needle end doesn't get lined back up with the hole?? We'll see how it runs and now that I know what the issue is I can always pull the choke plunger out and reinstall if I start having this issue again.
i was wondering if i could get some help. i been trying to locate where the fuel and air adjustment screws are located on my 95 kodiak 400. i think i found the fuel screw.. i know where the throttle adjuster is but i cant find the air screw. or is there an air adjustment on these carbs?
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