-
Do you own an ATV or UTV? Join our Forum!
Join QUADCRAZY ATV Forum today for FREE! We keep these forums clean and user friendly. All first posters will have to wait to have their content reviewed and approved. Once your first post is approved, you will no longer need to got through an approval process. To gain immediate approval and a NO ADS experience, consider subsribing to our Premium Membership.
-
Similar Topics
-
By 97kingquad
I have been rebuilding some ATVs in my spare time and teaching myself along with the help from the internet how an engine works and getting bikes running again is quite enjoyable. I even built an arctic cat 300 4x4 from two parts bikes the had seized motors and missing parts. It was pretty enjoyable.
So I am now working on a sazuki quadrunner 300 1992 which had a whole list of issues when I got it. I have fixed almost everything I need to in order to get this bike running. But something is going on inside the head or crankcase.
I had to replace the timing chain because it was very stretched due to the previous owner.
What the issue was, the timing chain was off the sprocket inside the engine due to it being stretched it slipped off. So the previous owner rebuilt the top end thinking it would fix it which it may have temporarily, but when doing so they welded an extra inch onto the tensioner to hold the chain tight. Which as you can imagine caused a dozen other issues.
So that stretched the chain to the point where I could remove the cam with the tensioner in.
It beat the sliders all to hell. Destroyed the cylinder housing and obviously ruined the tensioner.
I didn't realise all of this until after I rebuilt the engine. I noticed wear where the timing chain runs through the cylinder. I found the cam had no retaining chair, or clip whatever you want to call it so the cam was beat to sh** also. It had almost an inch of play side to side.
So I pulled the head off of my parts bike and fixed all of it. Then put it together and went to pull it over and found it was not on the sprocket (this is when I realised that all that damage and the welded tensioner was because the timing chain had been off the sprocket)
So I pulled the stator cover off and pulled the flywheel (which I should add to get at the stator cover I have to remove the rear tire and a arm as well as remove the bolt through the front of the engine. And the exhaust system has to be removed to pull the cylinder as the exhaust guard is bolted to the side of the timing chain tensioner. Stupid setup. Glad the king quad doesn't have that.
So I got everything apart and the flywheel off. New timing chain (nice and tight now) put the head back together and flywheel but it is quite hard to turn the engine over. I can but with difficulty. When the valve cover was off it seemed to spin much more freely. Before I tear everything back apart and start again any ideas on what it is?
-
By 97kingquad
Ok so I'm back lol
I got two arctic cat 300s that I am either trying to make one of the two or if possible I'll get them both running. I have a good start but I am struggling to find a wiring diagram that actually shows the connections.
Both bikes were tore apart and some wiring was spliced and all screwed up so I have been tracing wires and redoing the connections.
On one bike I have a neutral light and it will let the use e start to turn starter motor, thing is on that bike the motor is stuck engaged so when I pull the pull cord it's turning the starter motor as well.
On the other bike it is free and works as it should but I can't get the neutral indicator light to come on. Or any for that matter. I have been going through the fuses which all have power as well as the e start switch.
I'm wondering if anyone has come across some similar issues, I am checking the neutral switch tonight, I have been checking the wiring and comparing it to the bike that is working (in that sense) but both bikes are missing some things
I'm wondering if it is a better option to pull the good motor out and rebuild it then put it into the bike with the indicator lights working. But on that bike all the bushings and linkages are toast so there's a lot of work to either bike. I'd like to at least get the engine to fire up before I invest too much energy into swapping motors.
So if anyone has some info or can send me in the direction of a good wiring diagram it would be much appreciated. Thanks
-
By Angstromm
2005 Suzuki KingQuad 700 4X4 LT-A700X
A bundle of wires taped together shorted and melted tape. After removing tape, the wires fell apart and there was no way to determine how wires connected. This is on the left side of the ATV (see attached pic).
None of the wires run to ground. None test for volts with key on or when ATV is running.
There are 4 wires that go into 3 wires.
4 wires come in from above – yellow/green stripe, white/brown stripe, green, brown.
3 wires are below – all are yellow w/o stripes & and bundled into chase with a blue & a green wire that pass through (see attached pic). The 3 yellows appear to come from generator.
ATV only runs off battery now. There is no charge back to battery and ATV dies upon disconnecting battery (with RPMs up). All fuses are intact.
It would appear that any wire can connect to the yellow wires, so no worries there. But the extra/4th upper wire needs to be connected or bundled with one of its mates and I have no idea which goes to which.
Any help greatly appreciated.
-
By ncutts
hey all looking for some guidance on my KQ just replaced stator, and regulator on the quad and after putting all the plastics back together and finishing the snorkel kit she has no spark when i check voltage on the power wire going into ignition coil im getting about 12v and if i crank it im not getting my "peak voltage" (80v) any help would be greatly appreciated
thanks , Nick
-
By westomatic
I have a 2015 sportsman 570 in the shop currently with a cracked oil pan. It is a rental unit, (not my own rental company but a customer's) and the renter that was riding it apparently hit a large rock and dented the bottom of the skid plate into the oil pan and has cracked it where the drain bolt is. (And before any-one tells me to just JB weld it, I am not going to do that for obvious reasons relating to it failing down the trail. ) It is a quite large chunk that is broken and oil drains out about as fast as you can pour it in. I currently have the customer quoted for removing the engine and replacing the oil pan. Is this the best option? Or should I be looking into cutting the skid plate out, replacing the oil pan, and welding the skid plate back into place? Has anyone done that before?
Thanks!
-
-
Similar Tagged Content
-
- 1 reply
- 633 views
-
- 1 reply
- 3,207 views
-
- 6 replies
- 7,137 views
-
- 7 comments
- 3,437 views
-
- 1 reply
- 1,782 views
-
-
Gallery Images
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
.jpg.dae6846dd3f898104f86ce4b067428a0.jpg)
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.