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By dhallftworth
Hi everyone, I received a 98 Yamaha Timberwolf from my brother for free, and I'm working on getting it going.
I am having the following problem:
The engine is backfiring through the carb.
I have done the following to try and get the four wheeler running:
Rebuilt the carb and set the air screw to 1-1/4 turn out and the circlip at middle position 3
Replaced the coil, because the cable was loose at the coil end
Repaired the main ground, coming from the battery
Replaced the ignition switch, because my brother couldn't find the key. New switch tested good
Tested the kill switch and it tested good
New coil tested goodfor both primary and secondary coils
Pickup coil resistance is at 195, which is correct
My source coil, is where I believe the issue is. The resistance is 310ohms, and it should be between 428-523ohms
When I opened the stator housing, there was significant oil, which I have read is normal. Does it sound like I'm on the right track replacing the source coil? Could this be causing my backfiring issue? It looks like the source coil is part of the stator assembly, is this correct? 4BD-85510-20-00 STATOR ASSY
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By Bobbywolf
I am working on a basket case for a friend. It is a 98 Big Bear (YFM350FWB). It came with a parts machine which is a 96, which I am coming to find out is VERY different from his machine.
Anyway, first thing is first. I checked compression, 150psi. Valves are set correctly, and the engine is in time. I cleaned the carb, and there was some junk in the passages. It is a chinese carb, which I figured from the lack of markings or lettering altogether.
The bike runs. It idles ok, but breaks up badly under acceleration. Pulling a new spark plug shows it is running lean. White strap, with no black whatsoever. So I have the carb adjusted with the mixture screw out way too much (about 5 turns), and the diaphragm needle lifted to the top slot. It is still not getting enough fuel (or too much air). It backfires through the carb, and cannot get above idle without carrying on. The carb boot is in good shape, so it isn't pulling any air there. I did test this as well by spraying ether around the boot when running, looking for intake leaks.
Anything big I am missing here? I am starting to believe that this chinese carb is the issue. This quad came with the original carb, which I would like to rebuild and use, but the mixture screw is totally stuck, and stripped way down in its recess.
Thanks for any assistance.
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By 2wdrancher
Hello everyone I have done a ton of research on doing this conversion because I hate getting stuck in the stupidest places and not being able to back out. I will be documenting my conversion here and on a couple other forums and probably post a couple videos on YouTube. So what I’ve come up with is all you need is a front axles, front propeller shaft, the final shaft inside the engine and the 4x4 front engine cover . I will list all the part numbers for everything that you need and prices from about six months ago (sorry) , you DONT need to switch out hubs, knuckles, or anything like that, and if you want differential lock lock like the foreman and Rubicon you can get a foreman Rubicon front differential and propeller shaft with the diff-lock and get a knight sure four manual actuator for it and voilà you have four-wheel-drive rancher. Input from you guys is greatly appreciated thank you for your time!
Note: I would definitely get the aftermarket HD axles because they are definitely stronger and are around the same price as oem
FINAL SHAFT
23611-HR3-A40 =$80.48
BEARING
91006-HP5-601 =$11.11
OIL SEAL
91202-HR0-F01 =$ 7.94
COVER ASSY., FR. CRANKCASE
11300-HR3-WB0 =$206.99
PROPELLER SH AFT
40400-HR3-A20 =$91.50
FINAL GEAR
41400-HR3-W50 =$714.88
FINAL CASE BRA CKET
50350-HR3-A20 =$7.40
FLANGE BOLT
95701-08016-08 =$1.49
R. SHAFT SET
44250-HR3-WB1 =$240.64
L. DRIVESHAFT
44350-HR3-WB1 =$240.64
This is all for the 2x4 - 4x4 lever that comes in stock on the ranchers. I would definitely recommend looking for parts for wheelers on marketplace, or craigslist
001
NUT, ADJUSTING
41560-HP5-600
$6.51
002
CABLE, FR. FINAL CLUTCH
41570-HR3-A21
$6.56
003
SPRING, CLUTCH CABLE
41571-HP5-600
$1.95
004
CLIP, CLUTCH CABLE
41573-HP5-600
$3.23
005
GROMMET, CLUTCH CABLE
41716-HP5-600
$3.12
006
LEVER, FR. FINAL CLUTCH
54030-HP5-600
$8.91
007
PILLOW BALL, FR. FINAL CLUTCH
54031-HP5-601
$10.87
008
BRACKET, FR. FINAL CLUTCH
54040-HP5-601
$11.19
009
SPRING, FR. FINAL CLUTCH
54041-HP5-600
$1.86
010
GATE, FR. FINAL CLUTCH
54050-HR3-A20
$4.55
011
GRIP, FR. FINAL CLUTCH
54321-HP5-600
$8.95
X2 012
BOLT, FLANGE (6MM)
90111-162-000
$2.54
013
NUT, SELF-LOCK (6MM)
90343-ZE6-000
$1.70
014
JOINT B, BRAKE ARM
95015-32001
$0.82
X3 015
BOLT, FLANGE (6X12)
95701-06012-00
$1.34
Or Forman 520 w diff lock
FINAL GEAR
41400-HR4-A21 =$732.49
PROPELLER SHAFT
40400-HR4-A20 = $92.54
And you definitely need the sure four locker for this
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By p5200
I've been using Valvolene 10w 40 ATV oil but, it's like $8.00 a quart. Is that about the going rate? Or is there cheaper alternatives that would be suitable? Thanks
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By tryn2hrd
I have a rancher 420 TM that since i bought it has a cold hard shift problem beyond a doubt clutch is not releasing by shift lever. After it gets good and hot it shifts ok. Tried preloading adjustment screw clutch releases and shifts smooth but slips. Have had the clutch out and apart twice for inspection and didnt see anything wrong. Any tips will be appreciated. I've ran out of things to try instead of throwing new parts at it.
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