Quantcast
Jump to content

engine problems


Recommended Posts

I have a 07 raptor 350 that has been the biggest p.o.s i have ever owned. Had to have the engine rebuilt a month after i bought it brand new and yamaha wouldnt stand behind their warrenty. About a year ago a mechanic said i would need a new timming chain soon and that it would start making noise. Now its making a bad noise and another mechanic said it would seize up in under 10 miles. So obviously its more than a timming chain.

Does anyone know about how much i could sell it for in this condition? Just put a new chain and sprocket set on and new rear wheel bearings on it as well. Also changed the rear brake pads and disk, but i damaged the caliper and it needs a new one. Other that that its in pretty good shape.

Any tips for where to get a used engine and about how much they go for? I got a can am and love it so i kinda just want to cut my losses.

Thanks for any help!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a 07 raptor 350 that has been the biggest p.o.s i have ever owned. Had to have the engine rebuilt a month after i bought it brand new and yamaha wouldnt stand behind their warrenty. About a year ago a mechanic said i would need a new timming chain soon and that it would start making noise. Now its making a bad noise and another mechanic said it would seize up in under 10 miles. So obviously its more than a timming chain.

Does anyone know about how much i could sell it for in this condition? Just put a new chain and sprocket set on and new rear wheel bearings on it as well. Also changed the rear brake pads and disk, but i damaged the caliper and it needs a new one. Other that that its in pretty good shape.

Any tips for where to get a used engine and about how much they go for? I got a can am and love it so i kinda just want to cut my losses.

Thanks for any help!

Sounds like you need to cut your losses and run !:yes:The wierd part is those yami motors are tough as nails ! They ran a 350 motor for years in the warrior

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What was the reason yamaha wouldnt stand behind warranty? I worked at a ford dealership for a while repairing new cars from the factory and customers cars that were under the factory warranty only. The workorder always had to be written up a certain way otherwise the dealership and mechanic wouldnt get the warranty credit.

Was the matainance schedule followed or was the quad driven full bore out of the box?

Is there proof of abuse?

Not saying its your fault in anyway but Ive had plenty of customers come back at 30k miles with no oil change done ever expecting the repairs to be covered.

If you have documents showing maintainance done you can fight yamaha in small claims. Usually small claims will side against the company and favor the consumer

Sent from my SGH-T959V using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree part it out or give it one more chance at life if you can. If you sell it as a whole unit a buyer is going to use what it needs and how much it's going to cost them to get it cheap. Their plan my be to buy it and part it out their self. You would make more money to part it out. Unless you don't need the money and just want it out of the way take Petes deal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The chain slipped off in mud and water, balled up and broke off the chain guard that was part of engine leaving a dime sized hole. Needless to say the little time it ran and the mud and water it sucked in, it wrecked the engine. I tried for almost two months to get yama to warrenty it and no matter what i said or who i called they wouldnt. The worst part was i got a call from yamaha just after i pulled the engine out myself and started to rebuild it. They said they would arrange to pick it up and fix it but me taking the engine out voided the warrenty....

And this is the reason i will never buy a yamaha and tell everybody to get a can am! Every make will have its share of lemons and things wear down. The way they handled the warrenty was very unprofesional.

I would consider blowing the darn thing up into a million flaming pieces if all i could get is a few hundred for it.

Atleast that would look cool and make me feel a little better!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think it's geting harder & harder to get a company to stand behind their products. Customer services goes a looooong way. If you treat people right even if the product you buy gives you some problems and they stand behind it your more out to keep doing business with them. Ones that offer you a good warrenty and then makes you jump thru hoops to use it is not worth having. Thats all I got to say about that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By ResQ91
      Hi Guys!

      New member and could really use your advice. I would have to believe this has been an issue for others but a search here came up with nothing......? (Probably me not doing search correctly)
       
      I have an 87 Big Bear 350 YFM350FWT
      The OEM Mikuni BTM carb is shot and would rather replace than rebuild.
      It is no longer made and I have had good luck with NICHE carbs so I ordered a #K-CRB-0006 This was what they said was replacement when ordered. This Carb only uses 1 Throttle cable. The Slide is linked so it uses one. (OEM had 2nd cable coming through top to move slide)
       
      Problem is when I ordered a replacement Cable from NICHE (#C-CBL-0061) the Cable wire is a little short, not allowing Throttle to return all the way down to Idle position. I called NICHE and they are at a loss. Haven't gotten back to me after 2+ weeks.
       
      What would you recommend other than a carb rebuild?
      Can I just use 1 of the OEM cables (It is the right length) and snip/disconnect the other that went to top of Carb for Slide?
      Or ??
       
      Thanks in advance for any advice you have!!
       
      Dave
    • By Gwbarm
      I have been exploring all the options available, so many, its hard to choose. I have kind of narrowed it down to the Honda Pilot, Subaru Outback, and Kind of looking at the Outlander, although its a little small,  the new one is nice looking. Just wondering if anyone has any recommendations or gripes with any of these rides. I have driven Jeeps for the past 25  years and they have been great, but their price point has gotten to high. Expieriences good or bad would be helpful. Thanks!
    • By DrtyGrlKristin
      Just thought I'd start a new thread for newbies to the site!
      If you're new here, tell us who you are, where you're from and what you ride!!!
      Lets get to know each other a little better shall we?
      I'm not new to the site, obviously, but...
      I'm Kristin from Denver!!! I ride a 2008 Yamaha Rhino. She's my muddy baby!!!!!! Several aftermarket parts on her. She's good to me! We try and ride every weekend. This weekend we're off to MOAB! :woot:
    • By Drillbit
      Hey all,
      I need some input on a problem I'm having with my Kodiak 400 that keeps fouling plugs. First off, I've done a lot of work to this thing, most of it all in good fun. Brake work, cv joints, u joints, carb kit, checked valve lash, compression good, changed all fluids, etc... My problem is it keeps fouling plugs very quickly. I can put a new (manual recommended plug) in and it starts right up, runs great, idles great, picks up good. Doesn't stutter at all. I ride it for 1/2 a mile, it cuts off and won't start back up. I let it sit overnight thinking maybe it got to hot. Try to start it the next day, nothing. Put a new plug in, fires right up, runs great for another 1/2 mile or so, dead. The plugs come out and look carbon fouled with dry black soot on them. I don't know if this is a fuel/air mixture problem or a ignition problem. A couple of things that I noticed is I never need to pull the choke out to start it. Also, when it starts it automatically idles high like an automatic choke would do, then it comes back down to a good idle. Also I noticed that the air/fuel mixture needle valve screw does nothing when I adjust it in or out. I can screw it all the way closed and the motor still runs and idles good. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm almost leaning to a ignition breaking down the plugs??
      Thanks! 
    • By McG75
      Hello I’m new here and was wondering is anyone knew of good replacement part numbers for front struts and rear shocks for this atv? I think I’ve found a new rear shock, that looks like the original but there is no dimensions or anything and was wondering if there are any afterMarket new front struts available. I know it’s a long shot but any help would be appreciated. 
×
×
  • Create New...