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Similar Forum Topics
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By Fish0rDie
Well yall, it's been a while. Work has absolutely annihilated me for the past 5-6 months, and ive had bare minimum time to work on this project. Thank you to those that helped previously during the engine rebuild, but now were on to the task of wiring, and let me tell you besides the plugs on the wiring, I am almost completely lost. Bought an ebay harness, and none of the colors line up to what i have seen on any manuals. Its all the 97-01 electronics i believe. Ill post some pictures below of the mess I'm working with. Emphasis on "mess." A lot of the wires had to be extended since the harness was made for an atv and not a buggy. The colors are a little wonky, but I was using what I had, and they were mostly for just extending the plugs, so the colors match on either end. A buddy of mine has been helping me, and we are just at a loss. Looking for general guidance or any wire specific help you could give us. Not even sure if some of the single wires are plugged in right, and we dont have a "lever switch" wondering if thats just for the brake, because the master cylinder has two screws. I suppose a + and -... We also have what I believe are the reverse and neutral sensors to plug in (the only two sensors on the engine)
P.S. peep the custom airbox i 3d printed to utilize a lawn mower filter and 2x2 coupling from lowes
If you need better pictures of anything, let me know, It's kind of hard to get pictures of this rats nest.
Wires that are not connected to anything
4th picture black wire
5th picture blue wire w white stripe left/solid blue on right
6th picture what I believe to be the lever switch from pictures I saw on ebay
7th picture is two black wires coming out of the harness. One we have running back to a black with white stripe that comes out of a different place in the harness. The other that had an end to match the single wire coming from the handle bar switch. Single handle bar wire has a white stripe, so I may try to switch those around if the ends permit it.
I know it just looks god awful, but i really do think we are close, and the idea is to figure out whats going where, then figure out how to make it look better, so bear with me haha. Any help is appreciated. Just finished a little go kart for my wife with a predator 212, and gosh do I envy that wiring (there is none😂)
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By Tuzz
Bucking started about a month ago and works ok after 1/2 hour warmup. Today while working on it i discovered that if i put the ignition switch in LIGHT position it runs fine right from the start.
I'm stumped! Any idea why this could be?
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By huntindog
I am in the process of puting it back together after replacing the DPS gearbox.
The manual I have states that it will need to be flashed by a dealer. Is this still true?
Also , I have a mystery bolt That I cannot remember where it goes. M6x 70 or so. Hex head with a flat washer.I will try to attach a pic.
Pic is no go for now....Cox issue I will try again later
TIA
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By 2wdrancher
Hello everyone I have done a ton of research on doing this conversion because I hate getting stuck in the stupidest places and not being able to back out. I will be documenting my conversion here and on a couple other forums and probably post a couple videos on YouTube. So what I’ve come up with is all you need is a front axles, front propeller shaft, the final shaft inside the engine and the 4x4 front engine cover . I will list all the part numbers for everything that you need and prices from about six months ago (sorry) , you DONT need to switch out hubs, knuckles, or anything like that, and if you want differential lock lock like the foreman and Rubicon you can get a foreman Rubicon front differential and propeller shaft with the diff-lock and get a knight sure four manual actuator for it and voilà you have four-wheel-drive rancher. Input from you guys is greatly appreciated thank you for your time!
Note: I would definitely get the aftermarket HD axles because they are definitely stronger and are around the same price as oem
FINAL SHAFT
23611-HR3-A40 =$80.48
BEARING
91006-HP5-601 =$11.11
OIL SEAL
91202-HR0-F01 =$ 7.94
COVER ASSY., FR. CRANKCASE
11300-HR3-WB0 =$206.99
PROPELLER SH AFT
40400-HR3-A20 =$91.50
FINAL GEAR
41400-HR3-W50 =$714.88
FINAL CASE BRA CKET
50350-HR3-A20 =$7.40
FLANGE BOLT
95701-08016-08 =$1.49
R. SHAFT SET
44250-HR3-WB1 =$240.64
L. DRIVESHAFT
44350-HR3-WB1 =$240.64
This is all for the 2x4 - 4x4 lever that comes in stock on the ranchers. I would definitely recommend looking for parts for wheelers on marketplace, or craigslist
001
NUT, ADJUSTING
41560-HP5-600
$6.51
002
CABLE, FR. FINAL CLUTCH
41570-HR3-A21
$6.56
003
SPRING, CLUTCH CABLE
41571-HP5-600
$1.95
004
CLIP, CLUTCH CABLE
41573-HP5-600
$3.23
005
GROMMET, CLUTCH CABLE
41716-HP5-600
$3.12
006
LEVER, FR. FINAL CLUTCH
54030-HP5-600
$8.91
007
PILLOW BALL, FR. FINAL CLUTCH
54031-HP5-601
$10.87
008
BRACKET, FR. FINAL CLUTCH
54040-HP5-601
$11.19
009
SPRING, FR. FINAL CLUTCH
54041-HP5-600
$1.86
010
GATE, FR. FINAL CLUTCH
54050-HR3-A20
$4.55
011
GRIP, FR. FINAL CLUTCH
54321-HP5-600
$8.95
X2 012
BOLT, FLANGE (6MM)
90111-162-000
$2.54
013
NUT, SELF-LOCK (6MM)
90343-ZE6-000
$1.70
014
JOINT B, BRAKE ARM
95015-32001
$0.82
X3 015
BOLT, FLANGE (6X12)
95701-06012-00
$1.34
Or Forman 520 w diff lock
FINAL GEAR
41400-HR4-A21 =$732.49
PROPELLER SHAFT
40400-HR4-A20 = $92.54
And you definitely need the sure four locker for this
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By dvs1961
Just bought a new hisun ,been shopping for a year or more for a sxs best bang for the buck...Are there any lift kits out there for a 2022 Hisun 750 sector ? links thanks
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