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Similar Forum Topics
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By rjsummer
Just some friendly advice on new tires. Check with your ATV dealer.
There are so many aftermarket sites, Revco, Royal Distributing, Partzilla, and on and on. Even with their “ big sales”, my local Canam dealer’s REGULAR price beat the tire prices of the 3rd party sellers! People often assume the Dealership will cost them more, but I found this not to be true!
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By BruinBeater
Hey all, BruinBeater here. Just joined up from the Pittsburgh, PA area.
Got a Polaris Sportsman 1000 and a 570 in the garage that don't get ridden quite enough but looking forward to a family trip this fall.
I'm the unofficial mechanic of the extended family. In the past month or so I've replaced a transmission in a Chevy Silverado, rust repair on a Chevy Malibu, electrical repair on a Subaru Crosstrek, overheating issue solved on a Can Am Commander, and right now I have a pair of Grizzly and a Bruin 350 in the garage. Both have a no start condition and have been sitting for 2+ years.
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By middlebrookgt
I have replaced the cracked stator cover on my non-running 2006 LT-F400F that I purchased recently, checked all the shafts vs the service manual and pics and advice here. I replaced missing gears, bushings and washers, made sure that truth marks were all aligned properly, that the shift cam springs felt like they returned properly, etc. IAfter installing the new stator cover I checked the transfer lever for proper movement from L-H-R and then cranked it up. Happily, it runs and changes gears well in L, but it will not shift into H or R for anything. I have opened it back up and am going back through it looking for the missing puzzle piece(s) but how can I best check that I have everything right this time before buttoning it back up?
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By marcosphoto
Hi folks, a little disparity brought me to this forum. To set the stage, I'm a 35 auto tech in the industry 37 years now. Licensed motorcycle tech also, 20+ years. I race superbike and motocross. Always done most of my own standard work (outside of specific race machine works) including building my own race bike engines. Now that skills are out of the way, onwards and upwards.
Helping a neighbor with his old quest 500, right front axle seal leak. Well, looks like everything else - right? Wrong! Initially I noticed the CV joint was lacking large lands to place prybars on to pop it out, rather a thin shield like ring very close to the diff seal. Knowing the ring appeared quite delicate, I only pried gently and the CV popped out. However this is where things get weird. Came out only around 7-9mm then hung up again, felt like the clip was catching inside the diff. So spun and pulled, spun and pulled until I was blue in the face but no success getting it out. Also while it was out, I could see that the delicate ring around the outer circumference of the joint was actually the sealing surface where the seal contacts, instead of the norm where the seal rubs inside the diff much deeper and stays cleaner. I've never seen a joint like this, also the service manuals photos which apply to 650 also reflected a standard joint I am accustomed to rather than this one I was fighting with. Rather than break something in the diff, I decided to stop while I was ahead and reassemble the machine before something broke. (The joint would pop in and out of place easy enough, just wouldn't slide out further than 7-9mm). While the joint was a little out and sealing surface exposed, I cleaned the seal and sealing surfaces clean as possible before putting back together. Seems to be holding for now, but eventually I'm sure the leak will come back. Any thoughts as to why that CV joint just refused to come all the way out?
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By p5200
Hello folks, my machine wound up with I think water in the tank etc. It runs but speeds up and slows back down randomly. When not running I don't see gas dripping from the drain nipple on bottom of float bowl and drain screw is closed tight. With normal idle speed I see no leaking. When the idle speed increases quite a bit on it's own, gas appears to start slowly dripping from float bowl drain nipple? I'm wondering if the carb is flooding and the gas is actually coming from higher up and just appears, to be coming out of nipple but, is actually running down the sides of the nipple? I put a kit in the factory Mikuni carb last year after sitting for a while and I think the gas in the jug I used had drawn moisture. I plan to pull the carb tomorrow and clean everything out. I was just curious if anyone else thinks it's probably something in the carb and is, acutally a flooding problem? Thanks Folks! 🙂
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