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New memeber here..like most came looking for some help..other forums i have tried have not gotten any responses..so here goes
2001 wolverine..when problems started i went for a ride and 10 minutes into it, bike shut off..i could use push button and fire it back up..few mintues later shut off again this time i had to pull start it..drove it home and parked it..from then on i could not use push button or pull start.when i pushed start button no clicks or anyting, neutral light and oil light came on but that's it..so i inspected kill switch..it was bad..so i rewired to bypass kill switch (i think i got it right)..after this when i pushed start button i got a single click at the start circuit cut off relay (little white relay beside starter solenoid)..still could not pull start nor could i jump accross the solenoid to start (wasn't getting spark either way..so i replaced ignition coil (spark plug is new, i tried old plug as well)..still no changes..then i took off the start circuit cut off relay, using two jumper wires i completed that circuit with the relay out..kinda by accident i had unplugged the small red wire coming off the battery/fuse, at the bullet connector..now with the red wire disconnected, and kill switch bypassed, i could get it to crank at push button, but still no spark..but got it to start with pull cord..rode for 5 min, then it backfired, and the bike cut off on me, then it would start back up on its own (i guess because i was rolling pretty good).go for 10 yards, cut off, start back up on its own, 10 more yards cut off again.(by this time my speed was way down)...this time it just died and didn't start back up..let it sit a couple of minutes and finally got it to start with pull start..got it back home...after it cools down i can pull start it every time as long as that little red wire is disconnected, but it won't run for long, ( it will idle forever, but when i drive it and put a load on it, it will not run very long and it will cut off again..when i hook the red wire back up to use push button, i get no spark, but with that relay bypassed it will turn the starter, but no spark...i had inspected/cleaned all connectors, inspected all wiring i could( i pulled all tape off wiring harness and went over it)..i have been at this for a couple of weeks and am stumped at this point..i am gonna test my pick up coil later today ( i think i already tested it but i'm gonna test it again to be sure) and see if it is within spec..but i looked at the previous owners service records and in January of 2012 (one year and 9 months ago) he had the stator replaced at the dealer..so i'm thinking my stator is probably good, as well as the pick up coil, but you never know.. but i just don't know what else it could be..if my cdi was going bad, would i be able to pull start it and drive at all??.i read that when they go bad, they usually completely die. .disconnecting that red wire is the only way i can pull start it, hook red wire back up, and i get no spark either way (button or pull start)
can anyone give me some advice/guidance on what to check next??..i'm starting to believe it is a wiring issue, but i have looked and looked and cannot find any bad/loose connections or bare wire/wires, not to say i haven't overlooked something..someone told me it could be the voltage regulator/rectifier but i dont think that's it..i'm leaning towards stator/pick up coil.
battery is at 13v when i charge it, then it will go down to 12.4 or so after i try turning the engine over..haven't tested under load..replacement battery is on the way in any case
spark plug is new (also tried old plug which was still good)
replaced ignition coil
start circuit relay is bad, will replace asap, but can get starter to turn with relay bypassed with jumper wires and red wire coming off battery disconnected
can pull start with red wire disconnected, relay bypassed, but will not run long, as soon as it gets warm it will start shutting off..will idle fine..just when i put the engine under load is it shutting off)
also when i pull start, the neutral light is very faint (becuase red wire is disconnected)..but when i rev the engine, light gets even fainter
headlights also flicker/dim when i rev it up (again with red wire disconnected)
i believe i have kill switch bypassed properly..can't remember what wires connected, think it was a black/yellow stripe and red/white stripe)
I also have my parking brake safety/rev limiter out of the circuit..( i unplugged them then plugged the black wire into back/white wire at bullet connectors and disconnected the white plug coming off the parking brake if i rememeber correctly)
The only grounds i can find is the one coming off negative battery terminal, cleaned it, and the gound (black wire i believe) going onto the ignition coil, along with the orange wire..that ground appears to be good and is nice and tight
I pulled wiring harness and inspected every inch, found no issues
Any ideas, questions, concerns, or comments??
I have a multi meter so i can perform tests on wiring/electrical components..i also have an ammeter if needed..i just need some help on this
I bought my son one of those chinese ATV's. Ran really good. Ran into a problem. He was riding it in the snow and when he went to put it away for the night, I went to hook it to the battery tender which screws right into the quad near the battery. It was full of snow and ice from riding. I made the stupid mistake of sticking a screwdriver in to remove the ice, touched the screwdriver to 2 of the 3 prongs at the same time and it made a huge spark and ever since the quad will do nothing at all when i hit the electric start. Battery connections look good and I can't find any fried wires. The brake light won't even come on when i pull the levers. What the hell did I do?
PCI Race Radios, Inc. acquires the Solder Joint and opens up second store in Orange, California!
Signal Hill, CA (December 1, 2008) PCI Race Radios, the leading supplier of Communications to the Powersports Industry has acquired The Solder Joint, of Orange, California. Mark Foster, founder of The Solder Joint relocated to Indiana and PCI Race Radios took advantage of the opportunity to open a second, more convenient location for our Racing customers and expand into the Marine and Public Safety Industry.
PCI Race Radios, Inc. has hired Mark "Hollywood" Lowman, and he will continue to manage the Solder Joint, a DBA of PCI Race Radios, Inc. "I'm excited about The Solder Joint's now expanded line of products and increased inventory levels, this is exactly what we needed to service our customers better," commented Mark Lowman, Manager of the Solder Joint.
In the purchase of the business, PCI also acquired a new 20 ft. trailer to better support our racers in the desert. We are now able to be at two places at one time, like the upcoming January 22nd, 2008 weekend. Our 40 ft. trailer will be at the SCORE Laughlin Desert Challenge race, while our 20 ft. service trailer will be at the MORE Barstow race.
In addition to our new boating packages, The Solder Joint offers full custom installations in all types of vehicles, trucks and boats. The Solder Joint also has full CB Sales and Service at their Orange location. The Solder Joint is conveniently located in Orange where the 22, 55 and 57 Freeways meet, we have stocked the shelves with inventory and done some renovations to the store, stop by and check it out! The Solder Joint offers full custom Installations and CB sales and service.
In 1976, PCI entered into the motor sports industry and immediately emerged as a leader providing unparalleled support, service and clear communications. Providing trackside support for over 30 years, while developing racer friendly products, PCI is widely recognized as the leader in off road racing motor sports. Find PCI Radios on the net at www.pciraceradios.com
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