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Hey all new to the forum.... We ended up picking up a 2006 Suzuki z50 quad sport and took it camping this weekend. The guy said had a new top end and just put on a new belt. Seem to work fine for a little bit and then it lost power at the rear wheels. Belt was not in bad shape took a look but it just did not seem to have enough power to get my little guy moving. I pick up the rear end tires would go. Set it down lacked all power. Any help would be greatly appreciated it did run like a top also. To add to the bad news on the way home I ended up losing the seat so if anybody has one even if it's in rough shape would love to get it or if you have any ideas open to suggestions......
I have two 2003 Suzuki Ozark 250s, both 2-wheel drive. Last time we rode them about a year ago, the red one was not running well, didn't want to idle, backfired a lot. The green one ran fine.
Fast forward...I ordered a carb kit for both of them, thinking the red one has some trash in a jet. Both of these ATVs have had little use and I've always ran the gas out after use (put an inline cutoff valve in gas line). I pull started the red one to verify it was still running bad. It will start and idle, but as soon as you give it any throttle, it dies instantly. Give it a little choke, dies instantly. Took the carb apart and it was spotless. Went ahead and cleaned all the holes with carb cleaner and blew everything out with compressed air. All new jets, main jet holder, and needles. Put it back on and nothing changed. Starts, idles (not for a long time), but dies as soon as you give it gas. Same happens when you put the choke on. It does the same thing when I try to run it turned to prime on the petcock as it does in the on position.
Not an air filter issue. It is clean and it does the same exact thing with no filter on it.
Thought maybe there was a float issue or maybe a damaged diaphragm, so I took the carb off the green Ozark and put it on red. Started up and initially ran normal and revved for about 10 seconds and then started doing the same exact thing. Starts, idles (not for a long time), but dies as soon as you give it gas. Same happens when you put the choke on.
So...not the carb
Thought maybe vacuum petcock was bad, but there's no gas in the vacuum line going from petcock to carb and gas flows freely when on prime. I even plugged the vacuum line at both the petcock and carb end and tried to run it with valve set to prime. Gas flows freely, but does exactly the same thing. I unscrewed the screw at the bottom of the bowl and gas flows thru carb and out bowl drain line when petcock is set to prime.
So, I'm assuming petcock is good?
Checked spark plug and it wasn't fouled. Reset gap, didn't help. Will swap plugs between Ozarks tomorrow but I don't think that is it.
Anyway, that he history and now you're all caught up. Scratching my head. Valves? These were bought at same time and have had little use. Suggestions?
i have a 91 moto 4 100. has electric start only. for as long as i could remember we have always pushed start it. after riding for while you shut it off. you are able to hit the start button and it will start right up. anyone know where i should start with fixing this issue? im fixing it up for my niece. thank you in advance.
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By Nate Hanson
I am a new atv owner...I bought a used atv this summer (pretty sure it is a wolverine but reg card from last owner didnt actually say that so idk for sure). It ran great for most the summer and early fall but one day I tried starting it and it turned over a while without starting and then suddenly it quit turning over at all. No click or anything.
I charged battery and light turns on showing neutral and heatlight can go on.
A few other things that may be pertinent: The pull start is missing, I have a fluke multimeter but not many other advanced tools (or relevant experience), there is an extra aftermarket led light attached to front but it doesnt work either... never looked into why since I didnt need it.
I looked for a fuse box and didnt find one.
Please recommend some easier things to try first as I really want to avoid taking it in if I can (having one income and 4 kids can keep out extra cash, plus I want to learn). Pictures would be awesome if possible. Thanks!
Hi everyone, I received a 98 Yamaha Timberwolf from my brother for free, and I'm working on getting it going.
I am having the following problem:
The engine is backfiring through the carb.
I have done the following to try and get the four wheeler running:
Rebuilt the carb and set the air screw to 1-1/4 turn out and the circlip at middle position 3
Replaced the coil, because the cable was loose at the coil end
Repaired the main ground, coming from the battery
Replaced the ignition switch, because my brother couldn't find the key. New switch tested good
Tested the kill switch and it tested good
New coil tested goodfor both primary and secondary coils
Pickup coil resistance is at 195, which is correct
My source coil, is where I believe the issue is. The resistance is 310ohms, and it should be between 428-523ohms
When I opened the stator housing, there was significant oil, which I have read is normal. Does it sound like I'm on the right track replacing the source coil? Could this be causing my backfiring issue? It looks like the source coil is part of the stator assembly, is this correct? 4BD-85510-20-00 STATOR ASSY
I'm new to this forum and I hope you can help me out. My '99 Polaris 250 Trail boss does this: shifting in to forward the gears grind a bit. Once in gear the rig wants to immediately move forward. If I don't get to the throttle fast enough, she stalls.If I do, off we go. It happens everytime I shift into gear.Could this be caused by dirt inside the clutch sheaves causing the belt to engage early (before any throttle input)? Or what??? Thanks in advance.
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