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Similar Forum Topics
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By DaleJAM
so i cant read the vin clearly but i have added some pictures, hopefully someone sees it correctly. took a picture of what it looks like, they painted it Green It is underside a SKY BLUE original. has one spark plug . 3 relays in the back + rectifier. has one relay in the front. has cdi in the front three plugs off it.
If you need more info or pictures please ask.
the wire harness is trashed i want to rewire it but correctly.
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By Malta54
I own a 2007 Polaris Sportsman EFI X2 model and have for the past months been experiencing loads of issues. Basically the Sportsman will only start if the throttle lever is pushed and will not remain on idle. This situation has persisted for months now and I have replaced the following parts:
Sparking Plug
Fuel Injector
Fuel Pump
Fuel Filter
Fuel Valve
Fuel lines
Power Control Module
The last part replaced was the Power Control Module and the Sportsman was tested and worked fine on a couple of occasions which were days apart so much so that some weeks later I took the Sportsman for an extensive ride and it worked perfectly. This was three weeks ago and today I tried to start the ATV it worked fine a few minutes and decided to switch it off so that I could continue with some prep work. A few minutes later tried to start it up again but noticed that it would only start if the throttle lever was pushed and once I removed my finger from the throttle lever the engine would not stay in idle and would simply shut down. Several attempts were made to start this and also tried to re-adjust the setting by turning the built in wheel like mechanism in the throttle cable but it was to no avail.
The above have been repeating itself on an off basis. Each time a part is replaced the ATV would work and then all of a sudden will not keep its idle. At this stage I cannot think of any other solution other than possibly some sensors which might have an intermitting fault but I cannot really say.
Would greatly appreciate any assistance.
Thanks in advance.
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By mga
I get it, turn counterclockwise will decrease, turn clockwise will increase. My question is what exactly am i increasing or decreasing? Is it clutch pressure? In many videos i've seen it's always "turn counterclockwise" until you feel resistance then back off. Why is it always to decrease?
I'm just curious as to what exactly is going on when i turn that screw right or left. And, since there's no manual clutch to engage or disengage, what is going on inside?
Reason why i'm asking is while going down a hill in 1st gear, it appears to pops out of gear, but no neutral light, and if i stop, it's in 1st gear still. BUT, (always a but) if the engine is warmed up, it stays in 1st gear. The hill is too steep to use any other gear, so 1st with the brakes is the only way to go down.
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By Dumass
My name says it all. I have a '03 Honda Sporttrax 400EX with a new aftermarket carb on it that seems to be having issues. I can start it but it idles really rough and when I give it throttle it just kills the engine. I have tried adjusting the idle screw but to no avail. I am in the San Diego Ca area.
Any advice will be greatly appreciated. I would also like to get an owners manual for the thing too but can't seem to find a downloadable one.
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By Wam12905
Hey all!
I recently acquired an 02 big bear 400 this past summer, carb on it was shot to sh** (pics attached) so my father recommended I just buy a new one off amazon. I purchased the first one that came up as compatible and once it came in, I bolted it in and it fired right up with no noticeable issues. Once I got to the trails with it I realized that on any un-level ground, there's little power output. I checked with 3 different local shops and they all refused to work on tuning up off brand carbs because of how terrible they are. One shop had a motorcycle in with an aftermarket carb and the mechanic said that that would be me if I brought my big bear in. Whoever owned the motorcycle and needed their aftermarket carb tuned up had racked up the bill to nearly $1500. Needless to say he made it clearly obvious that putting any amount of money into an aftermarket carb is not worth it. Now that I've learned all of this, I'm wishing I didn't toss the old carb for a $30 amazon one. In light of this minor f-up does anybody have any recommendations for high quality carbs for my vehicle? I've also attached pictures of the old carb and its condition for your curiosity, although its current condition is likely 6 feet under in a landfill somewhere.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/283488113569?_skw=Big+Bear+400+Carburetor+Oem&epid=10042848409&itmmeta=01JCDWCTMJX5GBC407RF2PPVDD&hash=item42013553a1:g:INUAAOSwn8llquIL&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAABAHoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKkIMhqd%2Fye0vA0YMR5DUzMoCLl0F9GPNRfuAJKaylVqqyVrZCBJVvXQaPrlosjt%2FZnIHyIRPuGiIbxC9o%2B02UqGA4YqXDyyH4bVebnTPz8P5Elg76CvLdu3KyZgwpgpSeYJK2IOWtlo9vtTld7RVjqPwSv1VF26v6kyXGesAB%2BA%2BCHsj3OnqNrHMyKCBuDMSSvUWvOfq%2BKsZKqyHR7yduef%2BHBlXvfiyRJPThHr7Ge9n%2BHBbuxRCb4oF7%2Fp8oZsvajHy9YDitFRfNJeeAssYbgXuhAc7AVvUZZ2YxKW9GzDdxltLMap8orKJtr%2BIk0SRGQ%3D|tkp%3ABFBMsqqzvONk
I found this one on EBAY that advertises as a genuine OEM part for a fraction of the $650 that they're normally worth. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
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