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Similar Forum Topics
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By Its-always-something
Have a 1998 AC 300 2x4, Just installed a new carburetor. Engine starts easy but the choke RPMs are very hi and take along time (5-10 mins when cold out). After engine has warmed up choke releases and it idles and runs fine., It does no have an electric choke. The choke lever is never used and it seems like an auto choke? Long story short, how can I lower the choke rpm levels?
Also, carb came with a spare145 jet, not 100% sure what is installed. Could this impact choke RPMs?
Any help and information greatly appreciated.
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By Suzukiquad
If you had to choose one mod that you couldn't live without, or had to recommend one what would it be?
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By dhallftworth
Hi everyone, I received a 98 Yamaha Timberwolf from my brother for free, and I'm working on getting it going.
I am having the following problem:
The engine is backfiring through the carb.
I have done the following to try and get the four wheeler running:
Rebuilt the carb and set the air screw to 1-1/4 turn out and the circlip at middle position 3
Replaced the coil, because the cable was loose at the coil end
Repaired the main ground, coming from the battery
Replaced the ignition switch, because my brother couldn't find the key. New switch tested good
Tested the kill switch and it tested good
New coil tested goodfor both primary and secondary coils
Pickup coil resistance is at 195, which is correct
My source coil, is where I believe the issue is. The resistance is 310ohms, and it should be between 428-523ohms
When I opened the stator housing, there was significant oil, which I have read is normal. Does it sound like I'm on the right track replacing the source coil? Could this be causing my backfiring issue? It looks like the source coil is part of the stator assembly, is this correct? 4BD-85510-20-00 STATOR ASSY
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By Bobbywolf
I am working on a basket case for a friend. It is a 98 Big Bear (YFM350FWB). It came with a parts machine which is a 96, which I am coming to find out is VERY different from his machine.
Anyway, first thing is first. I checked compression, 150psi. Valves are set correctly, and the engine is in time. I cleaned the carb, and there was some junk in the passages. It is a chinese carb, which I figured from the lack of markings or lettering altogether.
The bike runs. It idles ok, but breaks up badly under acceleration. Pulling a new spark plug shows it is running lean. White strap, with no black whatsoever. So I have the carb adjusted with the mixture screw out way too much (about 5 turns), and the diaphragm needle lifted to the top slot. It is still not getting enough fuel (or too much air). It backfires through the carb, and cannot get above idle without carrying on. The carb boot is in good shape, so it isn't pulling any air there. I did test this as well by spraying ether around the boot when running, looking for intake leaks.
Anything big I am missing here? I am starting to believe that this chinese carb is the issue. This quad came with the original carb, which I would like to rebuild and use, but the mixture screw is totally stuck, and stripped way down in its recess.
Thanks for any assistance.
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By jashadams
Hey all back again with my 1989 moto 4 250.
After putting a new carb on it it's really sputtery, it has new gas and I'm wondering what to tune on the carb to make it idle better. I've attached a video to describe the issue more. The bike is still work in progress but I think the video gets the point across. Thanks!
Snapchat-1142015191.mp4
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