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tmanuel5

2010 Brute Force 750 problem(have video)

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[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-PSnnjsYPv4]Brute force 750 belt - YouTube[/ame]

So I just got this thing a few days ago from a buddy. Its snorkled and when i ride it smoke comes out of the belt housing pipe and i dont know why. I can imagine it coming out if i was in 4wd and in low in some thick mud but just a lilttle light mudding in 2wd and its doing it. I dont have a video of it smoking but i took off the belt housing and it was full of grease and some leaked out at the bottom when i opened it and not sure how thats possible. but i made this video to show what its doing and what it sounds like and could use some expertise and advice

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After inspecing it more its leaking grease or something when i give it gas i can see it moving along the housing underneath the primary clutch

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ok so after more fiddling its coming from behind the primary clutch. Im guessing there is a seal behind each clutch that stops oil from getting into it? anyone know what seal its called?

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There is a seal in the back of the clutch and its a PTO seal for the drive clutch. Its probably a bad bearing in the back of the seal that's the cause of your problem. Replace both and oh yeah, check the clutch fly weights also. They do wear out on the bushing and the pins. They should be checked every 1500 kms. for you that's about 900 miles. Sorry for the metric stuff.

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so this is only behind the primary clutch i need to replace or should i do for the secondary as well

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i cannot seem to find a seal or barring on a diagram on this website if you could help me out that would be great

2010 Kawasaki BRUTE FORCE 750 4X4I (KVF750DAF) Driven Converter/Drive Belt | Babbitts Kawasaki Parts House

if im not mistaken this picture is showing the secondary clutch and not the primary so what actual part #s do i need? i ordered the belt and the tool to get the clutch off already but not sure what seals and baring ur talking about

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The seal is a 92049 right side crank seal for the primary clutch its measurements are:

35idx50odx8t The bearing is 92045

those numbers are in millimeters as the bike is foreign. Only the U.S. use sae standards now. Might be a good idea to replace bearings and seals for both. However, only replace bearing if it has play in it because I think its installed from the inside out so that translates into a big major repair otherwise don't touch the bearing.

Also use this link to bike bandits.

2010 Kawasaki Brute Force 750 4X4i KVF750F Parts, 2010 Kawasaki Brute Force 750 4X4i KVF750F OEM Parts - BikeBandit.com

By the way you need to look in the crankcase section for those parts.

Edited by skidooer_3
info left out first time.

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ok thanks and i cant seem to find the part numbers for the secondary cause i honeslty have no idea what im looking at here

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The secondary parts are probably located in the transmission casing section. By the way to check the bearings. When you remove the clutches grab a hold off the crank end and the secondary shaft end and forcefully move them up and down. If no movement there the only replace the two seals. They both will be required to be pulled out. Don't worry about damaging them if you have the two new ones to go in there. When you replace the seals get a couple of pieces of plastic hard pipe the same size as the outside seal measurements and use that for a seal driver. That way the seals will go in evenly and you wont damage the seals.

I just had a look for the seal for the secondary and its a 92049b seal and it too is located in the crankcase section.

This info should help you determine the seals to order.

Good luck.

touch base if you need help anytime.

Edited by skidooer_3

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looking at the diagram here isnt 92049 for the secondary because the secondary is to the left? and 92049b is to the right?

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Here is the info you need from babbett. The oem number is the ones with the dash and four digits following it. The other numbers is like is said before are the sizes for the seals. all seals you need are on the right. The left is the magneto side. The right side is strictly the clutches side. Order these three seals and your good to go.

92049

SEAL-OIL,TC 35X50X8

92049-1452 ( this seal sits in the hole for the drive clutch on over the crankshaft)

$7.35

92049B

92049

SEAL-OIL

92049-1528 (this seal sits in the hole for the driven clutch shaft)

$8.85

SEAL-OIL,HTC 30X45X8

92049-1575 [this seal sits at the very back of the driven clutch)

$8.85

Edited by skidooer_3

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so i took off the 2 clutches and the seals were dry...how else can oil get into the crank case besides the 2 seals behind the clutches

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As far as I know that would be the only way it could get in there. Unless the unit has a snorkel kit on it. Foreign materials may get in that way. The casing only houses the drive and driven clutch which is connected to the two shafts coming out of the crankcase. Seems you have them off I would replace the seal anyhow just to be safe. Not that they cost that much.

Good luck

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hey man i got it all the seals changed and the water pump stuff and no leaks but i went to turn it on and nothing happens. it wont start my lights wont come on. i figured it might be the battery so i charged it and its fully charged and still notta. what could cause this? when u turn the key on the screen light comes on and such and i have a programmer and you can hear this starting up but the lights dont come on

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But changing the seals and such shouldn't have had anything to do with the electrical. So it sounds like me that you may have a fuse blown. Do you hear any clicking like a solenoid click when you push the start button? If you don't then I recommend you check all your fuses. You green light will come on when the bike is put in neutral because that's side of it gets its power when the neutral switch get the ground it needs to complete the circuit. That's a different fuse than the starter solenoid fuse. Those fuses should be in the battery compartment somewhere if I can recollect properly.

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When you removed the cover to get at the clutches, if you noticed you should see a switch sorta like a toggle switch. Make sure this switch didn't get tripped because if you did trip it, then that would cause your problem. You can check that out first. That switch is there to deactivate the bike in the event you have either too much of a worn belt or if the belt were to break. Its there to stop the engine so the clutches don't over rev.

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Ok i have fixed the electrical i guess a wire came loose. But of course i have other problems now. It is leaking oil out of the front diff. Also my oil light comes on and flashes. It was doing this previously but i changed my oil today and it still does it. I have the right amount of oil along with no leaks from the motor at all. I was riding it today and i went through a few mud holes but nothing majorly deep and after i came out of a long trail of mud i had to put it into 4wheel drive to get out of it and after i got out the four wheeler shut off. from getting to hot i guess. but then i started it back up and kept going.

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this is a video of updates and problems :/ could u take a look man?

Edited by tmanuel5

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I looked at your video. In reference to the oil light flashing, yes that's ok just as long as it goes out when started. Its an oil pressure detector. No oil pressure when started but key turned on yes it will flash. Upon start up you get oil pressure and the sensor detects it and the light goes out.

In regards to the oil leak in the rear end or front end, that's obviously another seal issue and dirty mud riding does wear out the seal prematurely. If oil is coming out, water is going in. Especial attention needs to be given to the rear end because not only is that your rear end gear box its also you brake clutches and if dirty water or any foreign material of any kind gets in there youll have a major problem. There are no shoes on the rear only brake clutches. And that rear end doesn't take the same oil and the front. The front will be ok with 10w/30 motor oil in it but that rear end takes a special mineral oil. So don't skimp on that rear end.

By the looks of those threads on that style of tire, you will definitely be going through wheel bearings. Good for the mud but not good at high speeds and that vibration from those lugs will take out bearings prematurely. The bearing may look good but sometime you need to completely remove them and see if there is any movement on the center race compared to holding the outer race. There shouldn't be any movement on those wheels when you pull out and push in on the top of those wheels.

I notice the snorkel on the front of the bike, so its been mud ridden quite a bit, so expect those problems to persist. If you have to replace the bearings don't get the originals get a real good quality bearing to replace them with. Don't get any of those foreign ones, like KMC or shit. Put your money in good quality ones and youll lessen your aggrevations twice over.

The electrical brown wire is the power wire to your starter solenoid. Check for loose wires.

Good luck.

Wayne

Edited by skidooer_3

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