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Similar Forum Topics
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By BruinBeater
Hey all, BruinBeater here. Just joined up from the Pittsburgh, PA area.
Got a Polaris Sportsman 1000 and a 570 in the garage that don't get ridden quite enough but looking forward to a family trip this fall.
I'm the unofficial mechanic of the extended family. In the past month or so I've replaced a transmission in a Chevy Silverado, rust repair on a Chevy Malibu, electrical repair on a Subaru Crosstrek, overheating issue solved on a Can Am Commander, and right now I have a pair of Grizzly and a Bruin 350 in the garage. Both have a no start condition and have been sitting for 2+ years.
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By mikeexplorer
I took this video back in 2007. Recently the trail (old railroad grade) I was riding was converted into a walking trail (obviously no more ATV riding on it) 👎 I dug up this old video and put it together since it shows the entire section and what it used to look like. The quality of the video is lacking, but this was from 18 years ago. Image stabilization didn't exist back then so I wore the camera on my helmet. (mounted to the quad was useless with all the shaking) so there is some annoying frames of me looking around. I noted any historical items from the railroad in the video. There is a section where the railroad grade is wiped out due to erosion so I had to jump off it and ride an abandoned road for a section to get around it.
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By mga
So, i go to change the oil in my 2k Y 400 BB and, without reading what types of oil to use, i just put in 10w-40 motor oil.....then i decided to read exactly what type of oil i should be using. Apparently, the ATV oil is designed to also work with the clutch..lol...which is probably why i was having a few issues going into the gears, or, maybe losing 1st gear going down a hill. Ok, now that i got educated i bought like 6 quarts of the "special" oil required.
Now, my second issue is it was hard to start for some reason. Usually it fires right up. So, once started i brought it up to the garage and removed the seat, thinking maybe the battery was weak from sitting. Nope...12.5 volts, but.....a mouse decided to build his nest right on top of the battery. I cleaned that all out, but, when i went to start it, the solenoid clicks and the starter just spins. UGH. One thing after another. No wires were chewed thankfully. Just kind weird the starter would do that all of a sudden when i messed with the oil.
Do i need to pull the starter now and check the bendix thing? It spens real nice, it just won't engage. The wrong oil wouldn't do that...would it?
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By marcosphoto
Hi folks, a little disparity brought me to this forum. To set the stage, I'm a 35 auto tech in the industry 37 years now. Licensed motorcycle tech also, 20+ years. I race superbike and motocross. Always done most of my own standard work (outside of specific race machine works) including building my own race bike engines. Now that skills are out of the way, onwards and upwards.
Helping a neighbor with his old quest 500, right front axle seal leak. Well, looks like everything else - right? Wrong! Initially I noticed the CV joint was lacking large lands to place prybars on to pop it out, rather a thin shield like ring very close to the diff seal. Knowing the ring appeared quite delicate, I only pried gently and the CV popped out. However this is where things get weird. Came out only around 7-9mm then hung up again, felt like the clip was catching inside the diff. So spun and pulled, spun and pulled until I was blue in the face but no success getting it out. Also while it was out, I could see that the delicate ring around the outer circumference of the joint was actually the sealing surface where the seal contacts, instead of the norm where the seal rubs inside the diff much deeper and stays cleaner. I've never seen a joint like this, also the service manuals photos which apply to 650 also reflected a standard joint I am accustomed to rather than this one I was fighting with. Rather than break something in the diff, I decided to stop while I was ahead and reassemble the machine before something broke. (The joint would pop in and out of place easy enough, just wouldn't slide out further than 7-9mm). While the joint was a little out and sealing surface exposed, I cleaned the seal and sealing surfaces clean as possible before putting back together. Seems to be holding for now, but eventually I'm sure the leak will come back. Any thoughts as to why that CV joint just refused to come all the way out?
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