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Similar Forum Topics
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By cruteg8
Does anyone know forsure if u can swap out the Crank Case on a 2001 kawasaki Lakota 300 sport with a kawasaki Bayou 300 Im seeing yes and no all over some say the mounting position is different so you can't swap the cases but everyother inernal engine part you can swap then im seeing no problem bolts right on can someone plz clarify who knows forsure
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By sunn
Maybe someone has the answer to correct a long cranking but did start after maybe 10 seconds?
Temp was mid 70's, with ATV not run for maybe a month but on battery maintainer with full bat charge noted. The atv started, but then died a couple times after repeated attempts. But when run awhile everything was ok. Although when starting now I do hear the fuel pump humming but seems to take a few ,"long" seconds before full prime pressure.
Is this typical of a failing fuel pump?
I've priced a replacement fuel pump on eBay for less than $40 so am tempted to simply replace it for good PM. Just had all covers off so looks really easy to replace.
Any ideas?
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By joezee13
After turning off engine in neutral starter wont engage If I rock unit back and forth it engages Getting progressive worse.
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By middlebrookgt
Hi All. I introduced myself some weeks ago with my 2006 LT-F400F that needed a list of repairs including replacing the cracked generator cover. It is back together as of last night and cranks up, idles and revs high pretty well. Needs some fine tuning and stop backfiring at stop.
The big issue is it will not go into gear. I reassembled the insides with help from y’all’s posts. The transfer selector moves from H-L-R, and the foot shifter moves thru the gears and finds neutral easily enough. Before I tear it back open, the transfer selector on top does not move as far as the repair manual says. The diagram shows the shaft moving something like 40 degrees between L and H and 50+ degrees between L and R but it doesn’t move that far even though it finds the indent areas and moves well.
Could this be the problem. I aligned all the dots on the shifter gears inside and it appeared to not be binding anywhere. I do hear the gears touching when I shift like they are trying to engage, but zero movement from the ARV
It was somewhat difficult to tell whether all the parts are installed on each shaft.
Are there better/bigger photos somewhere that would allow me to be confident I included all the washers and bushings, etc? If I had any doubt on parts that were laying inside after the cover broke then I purchased replacements from online stores.
TIA for any input or feedback!! Pics are from when I first took the generator cover off.
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By baller74
Hi here's the other half of the awesome deal on a quad!
grumbles when I went to look at this quad the seat was off and the headlight was laying aside the tank. first things I noticed was the wiring or wires that were cut to the cdi box and the ignition switch also the seat was off and the fuse off the battery was removed next was the jumper cables hooked up directly to the 110v house plug and the smell of burnt plastic and wire permitted the area. the guy selling it wasin a pinch and eeded quick cash so I overlooked my gut instinct and did a quick tally of cost and parts if I had tobuy the whole electrical system essentials to make it run again and slowly let the numbers 50 fly out and shut up. the foot crank was stripping bolt snapped but I turned it over good compression . this quad was clean as a whistle like brandnew andthe harness so far is in excellent shape. I stopped at a friend's house and found a kymko cdi since box was actually the maker of this engine. fo free and began my next days adventures dreaming that the wind would be in my face and the cops at my back way behind me hauling as* round town In a couple hours I mean he said it ran just fine the day before ....
well it's 715 this evening and I'm still trying to find a factory service manual that is free I can download at least the electrical schematis and conponant pinouts with wire color and a troubleshoot guide with component testing procedures as there more than six wires for the cdi the leftovers are green green with yellow babyblue and brown with yellow no eof these are hooked up and she's a dead horse hoping someone could walk me threw them and there correct designation not just spliced I to a hit etc. the wires I hooked to the cdu are white pickup pin 1, blackwhite the pin 2, blackgreen ground pin 3 4 empty 2 plug slot 1 empty slot 2 brownyellow power. now no been arguing with crapgpt all day sYs the 2 plug 6 wire ac cdi is the oem match for this one. now there was t a cdi when I bought it was "lost" probly along with the "KEY" but the cdi I pulled up shaws a 2 wire boobs 2pluh 6 pin cdi need to know if I can make her go with this cdi I looked at the wiring to that one And shows the stator hot and cold go to those extras not sure but I am leaning towRd there's N internal voltage regulator built into that cdi box. anyone have the skinny on this I have a voltage regulator 5 wire from another bike new bit has a pink wire when I put jumpers from my jeep to the battery and fused the hot side up and tied the red and brown side on it switch no get nada but have voltage from battery to start solenoid to the cdi hot pin the main harness connectors the headlights the green with yellow and all the red wires read that brown with yellow is an accessory wire 12v switched used for engine control restrictions but won't run without constant 12v if this is true I want it bypassed I. 205 pounds and little 200 is gonna struggle enough hauling me don't need any extra help there and infact if anyone can give me a few parts number to buy for some extra preformace and horsepower. I'm on a beer budget after my superchargered wrangler build so pheniox racing gurus and backwood tweeker brothers your input will be invaluable but you would add what you know. alright guy let er ripp I'm all ears.
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