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Similar Forum Topics
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By N00bie
From Arkansas. Just bought a 2012 Gator 850i RSX because I could not pass up the price. BUT it has an idle problem. So, to be honest, I joined just to get a service manual. I have a choice: 1)Buy a hard copy: ~$100; 2)Buy a CD ~$35.00; Get a direct download for free posting 10 times; or get a download for $29.00 (subscription). Haven't decided what to do yet.
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By ResQ91
Hi Guys!
New member and could really use your advice. I would have to believe this has been an issue for others but a search here came up with nothing......? (Probably me not doing search correctly)
I have an 87 Big Bear 350 YFM350FWT
The OEM Mikuni BTM carb is shot and would rather replace than rebuild.
It is no longer made and I have had good luck with NICHE carbs so I ordered a #K-CRB-0006 This was what they said was replacement when ordered. This Carb only uses 1 Throttle cable. The Slide is linked so it uses one. (OEM had 2nd cable coming through top to move slide)
Problem is when I ordered a replacement Cable from NICHE (#C-CBL-0061) the Cable wire is a little short, not allowing Throttle to return all the way down to Idle position. I called NICHE and they are at a loss. Haven't gotten back to me after 2+ weeks.
What would you recommend other than a carb rebuild?
Can I just use 1 of the OEM cables (It is the right length) and snip/disconnect the other that went to top of Carb for Slide?
Or ??
Thanks in advance for any advice you have!!
Dave
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By Louznmemind
Howdy y'all, I'm trying to fix a neighbors 2015 Brute Force 300. Came in with hard to start and won't idle except on choke issue. I pulled the carb and found the pilot jet as well as the emulsion tube partially clogged. Cleaned up everything, put it back together, still having issues... It will start right up on choke and will also start off choke if you give it just a touch of throttle but it absolutely will not idle unless it's choked just a touch. Also, excuse my ignorance but I'm assuming the "dial" thingy attached to the carb that turns in and out is for setting idle??
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By Drillbit
Hey all,
I need some input on a problem I'm having with my Kodiak 400 that keeps fouling plugs. First off, I've done a lot of work to this thing, most of it all in good fun. Brake work, cv joints, u joints, carb kit, checked valve lash, compression good, changed all fluids, etc... My problem is it keeps fouling plugs very quickly. I can put a new (manual recommended plug) in and it starts right up, runs great, idles great, picks up good. Doesn't stutter at all. I ride it for 1/2 a mile, it cuts off and won't start back up. I let it sit overnight thinking maybe it got to hot. Try to start it the next day, nothing. Put a new plug in, fires right up, runs great for another 1/2 mile or so, dead. The plugs come out and look carbon fouled with dry black soot on them. I don't know if this is a fuel/air mixture problem or a ignition problem. A couple of things that I noticed is I never need to pull the choke out to start it. Also, when it starts it automatically idles high like an automatic choke would do, then it comes back down to a good idle. Also I noticed that the air/fuel mixture needle valve screw does nothing when I adjust it in or out. I can screw it all the way closed and the motor still runs and idles good. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm almost leaning to a ignition breaking down the plugs??
Thanks!
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By HSTAR
Hey I have a 1997 big bear 350 4x4
I replaced the shifter shaft and the shift arm linkage and the rod when I installed them all I was unaware that you had to line the dot on the shifter shaft with the gap on the linkage arm gap put it all back together and rode it I can't get it to shift in the right gears I can move the shift cam by hand and goes in different gears but with the shifter shaft in it riding I can't put it in R or N
Anyone know how to line up the shifter shaft and the shift cam s
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