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2005 Suzuki King Quad 700 not firing


David Land

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I have an 05 King Quad 700 that has in the past had to have the stator replaced twice.  For the past six months it has been down hard as I cannot get it to fire.  I have replaced the coil (which is the code that came up) and now I have a friend replacing the stator.  I want to see if the new stator does the trick.  Drain the old fuel, and replace with 100% Ethanol free fuel, and see if that does the trick.  The local Suziki dealer will not work on it as it is over 10 years old.  So the nearest dealer is 90 miles away.  The last thing I can do after that (provided the other fixes do not work) is replace the ECM/ECU.  I also read that there was a recall on the ECM/ECU, so I need to check on that.  All of the grounding has been checked, so if anyone has an idea, I would greatly appreciate the insight.

 

Kindly,

 

David

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What do you mean doesn't fire? It has no spark? Or do you mean it cranks and just won't start? The recall for ECU was for parasitic drain on the battery ( I can give you a cheap fix for this after you get it running again).As you turn the key on listen for the fuel pump in the tank to run. It will only run about 3 seconds or so without the engine running. That's normal. Without fuel pressure it won't run. Second, remove the spark plug and verify you have spark at the plug when cranking. Be careful with flammables when doing this. The stator on those machines doesn't have anything to do with spark, your interested in the small trigger coil that is located in the same place. I'll see if i can find the specs. Fresh fuel always helps. A fully charged battery is a must on theses machines. Check the air box for critters/obstructions and get them evicted/removed if need be. I can help you with other electrical checks later on.

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  • Ajmboy changed the title to 2005 Suzuki King Quad 700 not firing
3 hours ago, Kent Mettler said:

What do you mean doesn't fire? It has no spark? Or do you mean it cranks and just won't start? The recall for ECU was for parasitic drain on the battery ( I can give you a cheap fix for this after you get it running again).As you turn the key on listen for the fuel pump in the tank to run. It will only run about 3 seconds or so without the engine running. That's normal. Without fuel pressure it won't run. Second, remove the spark plug and verify you have spark at the plug when cranking. Be careful with flammables when doing this. The stator on those machines doesn't have anything to do with spark, your interested in the small trigger coil that is located in the same place. I'll see if i can find the specs. Fresh fuel always helps. A fully charged battery is a must on theses machines. Check the air box for critters/obstructions and get them evicted/removed if need be. I can help you with other electrical checks later on.

Thank you for the response.  It is not getting any spark.  It is turning over, but not firing.  The fuel pump is pumping away as it should.  I have replaced the spark plug and a new coil, and getting no arc from the plug.  Air cleaner is clean and oiled.

3 hours ago, Frank Angerano said:

Why have had to replace the stator before if I may ask ? 

That is what the Suziki dealer did on two occasions when they would work on it.  Since they have changed hands, they will not longer work on it, stating that parts are no longer available for it.  

3 minutes ago, Frank Angerano said:

Have you welded or jump started it a lot ? You can burn up the stator by doing so.   

 

It has never been jump started.  I have put it on the trickle charger on from time to time, and one time replaced the battery.

 

 

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A friend of mine who is a Polaris tech has it at his home now, and is working on it, and we are trying to trouble shot it, going least expensive remedy to more expensive remedies.  My last resort will be to replace the ECM/ECU.  I have found a new OEM unit on eBay, but have held off until he sees if the stator fixes the issue.  We have gone through all the ground issues, and checked all the fuses, and the only code that came up was the coil and the FI started flashing after several attempts to crank it.  Being a 100% disabled vet (thanks to a RPG from a Serb terrorist in 96) and who has 27 acres that I like to get around, my electric wheelchair just won't cut it.  My King Quad has always been my trusty wheels and I am not going to give up on it!!  I can get out early in the mornings and lay on it and hunt from it without any issues, and then winch up bambi when I get lucky.

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Hahaha parts are no longer available for it ? They sound like a bunch of idiots to me.  There are plenty of parts available for that bike and bikes way older.  Ok so get back to basics for a second.  I asked if you have welded or jump started the bike a lot? That will burn out the stator. Now weather the stator has any part in giving the bike spark or not I would say yes.  100 percent.   But I’m not a whole lot of a Suzuki guy like @Kent Mettler seems to be but I’ve never seen a stator coil not be a part of the ignition system.  It’s an easy test either way.   I also know form last posts that the Suzuki regulators/rectifies also cause a lot of problems.  So I would test the stator, test the  secondary cools and regulator with an ohm meter. We will help you along if necessary and eliminate some of the components so your not buying the world in parts.  

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3 minutes ago, Frank Angerano said:

Hahaha parts are no longer available for it ? They sound like a bunch of idiots to me.  There are plenty of parts available for that bike and bikes way older.  Ok so get back to basics for a second.  I asked if you have welded or jump started the bike a lot? That will burn out the stator. Now weather the stator has any part in giving the bike spark or not I would say yes.  100 percent.   But I’m not a whole lot of a Suzuki guy like @Kent Mettler seems to be but I’ve never seen a stator coil not be a part of the ignition system.  It’s an easy test either way.   I also know form last posts that the Suzuki regulators/rectifies also cause a lot of problems.  So I would test the stator, test the  secondary cools and regulator with an ohm meter. We will help you along if necessary and eliminate some of the components so your not buying the world in parts.  

This old man appreciates all the help you all can offer.  I was told by the Suziki dealer in Atlanta that the stator would cause firing or lack or firing issues.  I have already purchased a rectifier, but have not installed it yet.  I guess I need to get Gary to do that while he has it apart.  Thank you ALL again!!  Sure do miss riding, and I'm not talking about that electric wheelchair!! :)

 

 

 

 

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26 minutes ago, Frank Angerano said:

I would test the stator first before ripping into it. And always try to use oem parts.   Look on eBay they have tons.   Hope this helps and you get the bike running    

 

Well since I already have the brand new one, and Gary has the oil etc., once you open it up I am going to go ahead and let him put it in. He needs the money to help take care of the young man he has taken in. It helps him and can’t hurt me though I am not rich either. 

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Ok, first things first. battery needs to be fully charged.

Now we'll get into the diagnostic part: First check the stator connections.One plug will have three yellow wires and the other will have two wires ,Blue with a green stripe and the other should be black, that is your crank position sensor connection. Make sure the connections are good.

Second check: You need to measure voltage between two wires at the ECM. Orange with white stripe and Black with white stripe.You should see battery voltage here with the key on. If you don't there is a problem with the key switch, handlebar switch,fuse, or the harness itself. 

Other tests involve a peak reading volt meter, do you have one? From my own notes a quick resistance test of the crank sensor should read about 200 ohms. If you get a 0 or infinite reading you have a problem with the crank sensor,which may explain why the entire stator was replaced. Sometimes they are packaged together. The wires going into the crank sensor from the plug should be blue and white. 

Try to avoid just throwing parts at it, that can get expensive quick. Testing will eventually reveal the problem.  One other thing,if your going to install the stator anyway,check the flywheel key while your in there. Make sure it isn't sheared. 

Check these things first and let us know what you find. Then we can dig deeper.

 

 

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13 hours ago, Kent Mettler said:

Ok, first things first. Battery needs to be fully charged.

Now we'll get into the diagnostic part: First check the stator connections.One plug will have three yellow wires and the other will have two wires ,Blue with a green stripe and the other should be black, that is your crank position sensor connection. Make sure the connections are good.

Second check: You need to measure voltage between two wires at the ECM. Orange with white stripe and Black with white stripe.You should see battery voltage here with the key on. If you don't there is a problem with the key switch, handlebar switch,fuse, or the harness itself. 

Other tests involve a peak reading volt meter, do you have one? From my own notes a quick resistance test of the crank sensor should read about 200 ohms. If you get a 0 or infinite reading you have a problem with the crank sensor,which may explain why the entire stator was replaced. Sometimes they are packaged together. The wires going into the crank sensor from the plug should be blue and white. 

Try to avoid just throwing parts at it, that can get expensive quick. Testing will eventually reveal the problem.  One other thing,if your going to install the stator anyway,check the flywheel key while your in there. Make sure it isn't sheared. 

Check these things first and let us know what you find. Then we can dig deeper.

 

 

Thank you sir.  I will share this Gary.  

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  • 1 year later...

Gentlemen, I know my original post is dated, but I do have an update and another issue.  I found a Suzuki dealership about 2 hours away, so with some help, I loaded my King Quad on a trailer, and went for a 100 mile drive. They had rebuild the top end of the motor, and I provided a new ECM and some other parts.  She ran great until a week ago. I have fouled 3 plugs so far, and it appears that the fuel injections system is pumping tons more fuel into the plug than it can handle.  Another friend of mine pulled the 1st plug, and he installed a 2nd new NGK plug.  Only took about 2 minutes of it running, and that plug was done.  So off to the store I went and bought 2 more plugs.  He came by again today and put in another plug, and at this point the battery was about drained.  It started, but then died and restarting it was not going to happen as the battery was drained.  I had the battery checked, and was told that the battery was good but needed to be charged.  So it is on the charger, and we will try again.  I was doing some reading another thread and they were not getting enough fuel, and it turned out to be a bad wire/connection.  So I have downloaded the manual and I am going to let Tim take a look at the manual and see if we can find a bad wire.  Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!  

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Unfortunately, the warranty time has passed, so getting them to fix anything under a warranty is out of the question.  I am going to call them and see what, if anything can be done, or if they have suggestions or recommendations.  I wish the bike shop here would service my King Quad, but because it is a 2005 and again their assertion that they can't get parts, they won't touch it.  

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Ah, hate that for you brother.  Flooding in an EFI is almost always an ECU issue or a sensor misreading that feeds the ECU.  My son's ole 91 Z71 runs realllllly rich because it's not reading the o2 sensor so it assumes it's always in cold start mode.  Hope you get it worked out, the King Quad was a killer utility machine.

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