Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

David Land

2005 Suzuki King Quad 700 not firing

Recommended Posts

I have an 05 King Quad 700 that has in the past had to have the stator replaced twice.  For the past six months it has been down hard as I cannot get it to fire.  I have replaced the coil (which is the code that came up) and now I have a friend replacing the stator.  I want to see if the new stator does the trick.  Drain the old fuel, and replace with 100% Ethanol free fuel, and see if that does the trick.  The local Suziki dealer will not work on it as it is over 10 years old.  So the nearest dealer is 90 miles away.  The last thing I can do after that (provided the other fixes do not work) is replace the ECM/ECU.  I also read that there was a recall on the ECM/ECU, so I need to check on that.  All of the grounding has been checked, so if anyone has an idea, I would greatly appreciate the insight.

 

Kindly,

 

David

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Guest

What do you mean doesn't fire? It has no spark? Or do you mean it cranks and just won't start? The recall for ECU was for parasitic drain on the battery ( I can give you a cheap fix for this after you get it running again).As you turn the key on listen for the fuel pump in the tank to run. It will only run about 3 seconds or so without the engine running. That's normal. Without fuel pressure it won't run. Second, remove the spark plug and verify you have spark at the plug when cranking. Be careful with flammables when doing this. The stator on those machines doesn't have anything to do with spark, your interested in the small trigger coil that is located in the same place. I'll see if i can find the specs. Fresh fuel always helps. A fully charged battery is a must on theses machines. Check the air box for critters/obstructions and get them evicted/removed if need be. I can help you with other electrical checks later on.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Isn't it fuel injected? I used to own a 2005 myself. Like @Kent Mettler mentioned, do you hear the fuel pump going on?

* Topic moved to Suzuki ATV Forum

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


3 hours ago, Kent Mettler said:

What do you mean doesn't fire? It has no spark? Or do you mean it cranks and just won't start? The recall for ECU was for parasitic drain on the battery ( I can give you a cheap fix for this after you get it running again).As you turn the key on listen for the fuel pump in the tank to run. It will only run about 3 seconds or so without the engine running. That's normal. Without fuel pressure it won't run. Second, remove the spark plug and verify you have spark at the plug when cranking. Be careful with flammables when doing this. The stator on those machines doesn't have anything to do with spark, your interested in the small trigger coil that is located in the same place. I'll see if i can find the specs. Fresh fuel always helps. A fully charged battery is a must on theses machines. Check the air box for critters/obstructions and get them evicted/removed if need be. I can help you with other electrical checks later on.

Thank you for the response.  It is not getting any spark.  It is turning over, but not firing.  The fuel pump is pumping away as it should.  I have replaced the spark plug and a new coil, and getting no arc from the plug.  Air cleaner is clean and oiled.

3 hours ago, Frank Angerano said:

Why have had to replace the stator before if I may ask ? 

That is what the Suziki dealer did on two occasions when they would work on it.  Since they have changed hands, they will not longer work on it, stating that parts are no longer available for it.  

3 minutes ago, Frank Angerano said:

Have you welded or jump started it a lot ? You can burn up the stator by doing so.   

 

It has never been jump started.  I have put it on the trickle charger on from time to time, and one time replaced the battery.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A friend of mine who is a Polaris tech has it at his home now, and is working on it, and we are trying to trouble shot it, going least expensive remedy to more expensive remedies.  My last resort will be to replace the ECM/ECU.  I have found a new OEM unit on eBay, but have held off until he sees if the stator fixes the issue.  We have gone through all the ground issues, and checked all the fuses, and the only code that came up was the coil and the FI started flashing after several attempts to crank it.  Being a 100% disabled vet (thanks to a RPG from a Serb terrorist in 96) and who has 27 acres that I like to get around, my electric wheelchair just won't cut it.  My King Quad has always been my trusty wheels and I am not going to give up on it!!  I can get out early in the mornings and lay on it and hunt from it without any issues, and then winch up bambi when I get lucky.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hahaha parts are no longer available for it ? They sound like a bunch of idiots to me.  There are plenty of parts available for that bike and bikes way older.  Ok so get back to basics for a second.  I asked if you have welded or jump started the bike a lot? That will burn out the stator. Now weather the stator has any part in giving the bike spark or not I would say yes.  100 percent.   But I’m not a whole lot of a Suzuki guy like @Kent Mettler seems to be but I’ve never seen a stator coil not be a part of the ignition system.  It’s an easy test either way.   I also know form last posts that the Suzuki regulators/rectifies also cause a lot of problems.  So I would test the stator, test the  secondary cools and regulator with an ohm meter. We will help you along if necessary and eliminate some of the components so your not buying the world in parts.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, Frank Angerano said:

Hahaha parts are no longer available for it ? They sound like a bunch of idiots to me.  There are plenty of parts available for that bike and bikes way older.  Ok so get back to basics for a second.  I asked if you have welded or jump started the bike a lot? That will burn out the stator. Now weather the stator has any part in giving the bike spark or not I would say yes.  100 percent.   But I’m not a whole lot of a Suzuki guy like @Kent Mettler seems to be but I’ve never seen a stator coil not be a part of the ignition system.  It’s an easy test either way.   I also know form last posts that the Suzuki regulators/rectifies also cause a lot of problems.  So I would test the stator, test the  secondary cools and regulator with an ohm meter. We will help you along if necessary and eliminate some of the components so your not buying the world in parts.  

This old man appreciates all the help you all can offer.  I was told by the Suziki dealer in Atlanta that the stator would cause firing or lack or firing issues.  I have already purchased a rectifier, but have not installed it yet.  I guess I need to get Gary to do that while he has it apart.  Thank you ALL again!!  Sure do miss riding, and I'm not talking about that electric wheelchair!! :)

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


I would test the stator first before ripping into it. And always try to use oem parts.   Look on eBay they have tons.   Hope this helps and you get the bike running    

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
26 minutes ago, Frank Angerano said:

I would test the stator first before ripping into it. And always try to use oem parts.   Look on eBay they have tons.   Hope this helps and you get the bike running    

 

Well since I already have the brand new one, and Gary has the oil etc., once you open it up I am going to go ahead and let him put it in. He needs the money to help take care of the young man he has taken in. It helps him and can’t hurt me though I am not rich either. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest

Ok, first things first. Battery needs to be fully charged.

Now we'll get into the diagnostic part: First check the stator connections.One plug will have three yellow wires and the other will have two wires ,Blue with a green stripe and the other should be black, that is your crank position sensor connection. Make sure the connections are good.

Second check: You need to measure voltage between two wires at the ECM. Orange with white stripe and Black with white stripe.You should see battery voltage here with the key on. If you don't there is a problem with the key switch, handlebar switch,fuse, or the harness itself. 

Other tests involve a peak reading volt meter, do you have one? From my own notes a quick resistance test of the crank sensor should read about 200 ohms. If you get a 0 or infinite reading you have a problem with the crank sensor,which may explain why the entire stator was replaced. Sometimes they are packaged together. The wires going into the crank sensor from the plug should be blue and white. 

Try to avoid just throwing parts at it, that can get expensive quick. Testing will eventually reveal the problem.  One other thing,if your going to install the stator anyway,check the flywheel key while your in there. Make sure it isn't sheared. 

Check these things first and let us know what you find. Then we can dig deeper.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, Kent Mettler said:

Ok, first things first. Battery needs to be fully charged.

Now we'll get into the diagnostic part: First check the stator connections.One plug will have three yellow wires and the other will have two wires ,Blue with a green stripe and the other should be black, that is your crank position sensor connection. Make sure the connections are good.

Second check: You need to measure voltage between two wires at the ECM. Orange with white stripe and Black with white stripe.You should see battery voltage here with the key on. If you don't there is a problem with the key switch, handlebar switch,fuse, or the harness itself. 

Other tests involve a peak reading volt meter, do you have one? From my own notes a quick resistance test of the crank sensor should read about 200 ohms. If you get a 0 or infinite reading you have a problem with the crank sensor,which may explain why the entire stator was replaced. Sometimes they are packaged together. The wires going into the crank sensor from the plug should be blue and white. 

Try to avoid just throwing parts at it, that can get expensive quick. Testing will eventually reveal the problem.  One other thing,if your going to install the stator anyway,check the flywheel key while your in there. Make sure it isn't sheared. 

Check these things first and let us know what you find. Then we can dig deeper.

 

 

Thank you sir.  I will share this Gary.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Dra O
      posted a while back - it was running at one point - I have all the plastic shroud off - it's down to frame and engine now
      -fuel pump: when line from petcock is attached, no fuel comes out other side to carb; the line to the carb is open (can blow through it); I thought when I cranked engine that the pump would spit out fuel on other side but it does not; I removed fuel pump and opened it up - diaphragm looks good - but internal areas had lotsa calcification build up - I cleaned this out and dried it good - the clear plastic pieces (?diaphragms) aren't broken - the spring w/ steel ball on end moves freely; am putting it back on tomorrow; but can anyone answer about the pump? isn't it supposed to pump fuel through it... to other side... to carb? puzzling
      -along with fuel pump: I replaced petcock 3 weeks ago (gas tank had rusty fuel in bottom - cleaned it out prior to new petcock); when I turn petcock arrow NOT to on or reserve, fuel comes out of line; when I turn it to on or reserve, fuel doesn't come out; puzzling
      -I don't know what's on back of fuel pump - it's a valve that has a hose coming out of it - looks like it goes to engine/carb - I haven't traced this out yet - what is it?
      -can squirt gas on air filter and engine will run for 2-3 seconds then stop - fuel in top of carb (under diaphragm) does same
      -it likely needs carb rebuild - will get to this - but something isn't allowing fuel to get from fuel pump to carb
      -I THINK it has a mikuni model x carb - diaphragm is ID 26mm  OD 68mm - hard to find inexpensive diaphragm, I guess because it's a model x
      -last thing - I replaced solenoid due to old one clicking; I HAVE to be charging the battery or it won't start/turn over - battery just goes dead; but if charging, it'll turn over nicely; i'm guessing it's a bad battery
      -any help appreciated - I've never owned an ATV before - inherited this beast from grandparent in-law
    • By lanow
      Hi Everyone,
      I am new to this forum and hope that someone out there can help me, I have an early Suzuki King Quad 300 (280cc) which starts intstantly every time but at about half revs or there abouts it starts spluttering and will not rev any higher, this fault is present whether choke is applied or not, some one suggested that silencer maybe be clogged so removed baffle but no improvement have removed carb and stripped 3 times but still no joy.
      Any ideas would be most welcome.
      Cheers Rob
    • By Chase Cook
      I have a Yamaha 350 in at once to try to fire up but won't. It's getting gas fire air and it has a lot of compression but still struggles to start check the timing it's top dead center valves are good valves are adjusted everything's working but won't fire I put my hand over the carb suck in gas and it tries to but it makes a lot of black smoke. Also when I put my hand over do you carb and tried to start it there's black black nasty stuff in the gas. So I don't know if it's trying to burn too much or what it is the gas tank clean and it anything to do with the gas it's with it firing. Took the spark plug out and it's pure black. What is dried up black not nasty corroded wet looking. Need help to solve the issue
    • By StolenATV
      1987 Suzuki LT 80 and 2007 Honda CRF 50 dirt bike stolen out of my driveway on July 4th. Anyone with info that recovers them will get $400 no questions asked.
      Thanks
      The post Suzuki LT 80 Quad And Honda Dirt Bike appeared first on STOLEN 911.
      View the full article
    • By raybob
      replacing carb,, the bigger line on right side top of carb does it just vent to the air,, cant find where to hook it up to also I want to check the oil and gear oil I checked the oil in motor and the rear end my question is looks like allen plug on left side of motor if you are setting on the 4 wheller, ps it hs a oli leak any help would be great. Ray in kentucky
  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By Dra O
      posted a while back - it was running at one point - I have all the plastic shroud off - it's down to frame and engine now
      -fuel pump: when line from petcock is attached, no fuel comes out other side to carb; the line to the carb is open (can blow through it); I thought when I cranked engine that the pump would spit out fuel on other side but it does not; I removed fuel pump and opened it up - diaphragm looks good - but internal areas had lotsa calcification build up - I cleaned this out and dried it good - the clear plastic pieces (?diaphragms) aren't broken - the spring w/ steel ball on end moves freely; am putting it back on tomorrow; but can anyone answer about the pump? isn't it supposed to pump fuel through it... to other side... to carb? puzzling
      -along with fuel pump: I replaced petcock 3 weeks ago (gas tank had rusty fuel in bottom - cleaned it out prior to new petcock); when I turn petcock arrow NOT to on or reserve, fuel comes out of line; when I turn it to on or reserve, fuel doesn't come out; puzzling
      -I don't know what's on back of fuel pump - it's a valve that has a hose coming out of it - looks like it goes to engine/carb - I haven't traced this out yet - what is it?
      -can squirt gas on air filter and engine will run for 2-3 seconds then stop - fuel in top of carb (under diaphragm) does same
      -it likely needs carb rebuild - will get to this - but something isn't allowing fuel to get from fuel pump to carb
      -I THINK it has a mikuni model x carb - diaphragm is ID 26mm  OD 68mm - hard to find inexpensive diaphragm, I guess because it's a model x
      -last thing - I replaced solenoid due to old one clicking; I HAVE to be charging the battery or it won't start/turn over - battery just goes dead; but if charging, it'll turn over nicely; i'm guessing it's a bad battery
      -any help appreciated - I've never owned an ATV before - inherited this beast from grandparent in-law
    • By LMI
      I wanted to share an experience and a fix.
      Headed out was following a pole line, was looking for a cross track that may take me to this speckle trout looking spot on a creek.  All paths and semi paths... failed.  Second objective was to reach a speckle trout lake that has been recently stocked... followed 1 trail to dead end, followed second trail to dead end.... while investigating options on foot and the quad idling it died.
       
      It wouldn't start.  eventually it did... and when it did … it was essentially a pinned idle.  activating the throttle did seem to speed it up but it wouldn't knock out of the racing idle.  couldn't put it in gear at that idle speed.  got towed out.
      when I first got the quad, I ran it off a trail and buried it pretty good in the soft snow... eventually winched out.  It wouldn't start.  eventually did and it was fast idling.  not as fast as this last time. but still fast.  it eventually seemed to settle and I got it in gear and by the time I was back to the truck was acting ok.  chalked it up to the bike being at a bad angle in the snow.
      My investigation last year lead to the throttle position sensor TPS.  how to jumper the diag block to see the sensor position on the display,.  I focused on this nearly sure it was a detuned sensor or broken sensor again this time.
       
      I tore down the front plastic and stuck my head into the TPS area to see what I could see.  What I found was that the throttle body assembly had actually come out of the mounting area (not sure what it is called).  the ring clamp was loose I could move it easily.  Hopeful, I tore down the air intake assembly above it (air filter...etc) removed a sensor clip and a hose.
      I backed off the clamp some more and was able to reseat the throttle body assembly.  put some blue lock tite on the clamp screw.  When I was cleaning off the air intake assembly to ensure I dropped nothing down the intake, I noticed the underside of the air intake "box" also had a clamp.  this screw was completely missing.
      I went to the hardware store, bought a metric replacement (brought clamp with me), seated the assembly, settled the clamp blue lock tite that as well... 
       
      quad fired right up, idled normal, idled up without hesitation and dropped right back off.  Cost of solution $3.87 CND for a pack of 5 metric screws.  moral of my story was don't assume an idle issue is a throttle position sensor problem... there are a number of other factors including air pressure, which I believe was my issue.
       
       
       
    • By Andrew Serrano
      I have a 2000 Suzuki LTF -300 King Quad. My problem is it will start up great, very fast. It will run fine until it gets hot and I turn it off.  If I let it sit for a bit it will not start until I hold the throttle wide open and crank on the starter for quite some timr, acting has if flooded.....but I checked the spark plug one time this happened, went to change thinking it was flooded but only found a dry Plug????  It starts like if flooded but plug was dry, it takes awhile to start, then to get going I have to really rev it to get it clear and going...Thanks any suggestions would be great, thanks everybody in advance...!!!
    • By Andrzej Polak
      hi
      Where installing a winch to KINGQUAD ltf300?? someone have any pic?
    • By Gus Drake
      I'm helping the widowed neighbor out to do some oil changes on her quads. Any recommendations on what type of oil to run in these machines?
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...