Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I am about to buy a BB 350 -1996 that have a starting problem, but they change spark plug and then all is fine until next time, not sure how often but it sounded like it was common. Sparkplug gets black.

They drive it mostly short times, water to horses and back. Might it be only that reason"?

What would worst case scenario be?

They also got a flat tire so they bought one new tire, on 4wd I learned that is a big no no.

What do Big bear say about that? Lets say other tires is half worn.

Posted

the plug is turning black because its running rich, higher fuel to air ratio. you could adjust the air/fuel mix screw and check air filter and vent lines to remedy. maybe run some carb cleaner through it too.

the tire isnt a big deal, unless it is a different size, i think you have 25" stock tires, if you run bigger or smaller, it would damage the 4WD system ,,, but if it is same size, you are good to go

Posted

Thank's that was quick! :)

They have had it to a shop once a year for maintenance, they have not found any fix for it. Not sure if it was a good shop or how hard they tryed. But they told seller to inform of the plug when selling...

As long as it is no potentially "big" problem I am calm.

They said it stalls when cold if they leave it running, but cold engines can do that. Not sure how sensitive these are.

I have 2 hours in car to see it, otherwise I should have been there for a test drive already to see for my self.

Yes, it is stock tires so then it's no worry I guess, they belived it was original, the owned it for 10 years.

Posted (edited)

Might it be oil fouling? Oil leaking in from valves or piston ring = engine rebuild?

Will I surely see blue smoke then?

Other way to see problem easy? Well, cant start to tear it a part before buying it, might not even pull plug...

It just hit me that they told me of spark problem 3 times, might they know that it needs more work then harder riding and want to keep their back free. Just got suspicious...

edit:

Just saw last post: Yes 350, valve tweaking like adjusting or pull top and change seal?

Edited by ChristerLun
Just saw last post
Posted

Fouling could be from running cheap plugs -ie running to wally world and picking up a champion that "fits" rather than the correct NGK - also air filter/box could be packed with critter nest - that'll cause it to run rich and foul frequently (I always put a screen into the intake snorkel behind the tank to keep critters out).

Posted

Hi again, was there yesterday and looked at it. 2 owners, last one for 10 years.

Engine did not feel good, smoke smelled very much burned engine oil. Dip stick smelled like exhausts. Runned bad om idle, but ok on some rpm. Trivetrain felt good.

Moss was growing on skidplate, for real!

Very black smoke, snow got black after 3 seconds, I smelled burned oil for the rest of the evening. Engineblock was leaking oil in middle, carburator was rusty (all steel items), well everything steel was rusty. Shifting gears was easy, some times. Pull starter was stuck, lights was flickering, cut wires was hanging and so on.

Drivetrain felt fine anyway, must be sturdy...

There was no deal ;)

They said afterwards they didnt now from time to time if it was going to start or not when they tryed.

Thank you for all answers!

  • 1 month later...
Posted
you could use a hotter plug in it too to help burn away the fouling ... your plug should be an NGK D8EA and the hotter plug would be a D7EA ... the valves might need a tweaking too ...

this is the 350 model??

Hey Oxi-Black, I own a 1998 Big Bear 350 4x2 with a similar spark plug issue. I recently pulled out plug and she is BLACK. It is a NGK D8EA. Heres some background info; I installed a snorkel on her a couple years ago and raised the carb needle one notch and it ran alright until the stock muffler rusted out completely. I upgraded to a DG RCM ll slip on exhaust and bike ran only so so. It backfired when I would punch throttle and sputtered a little when I would be creeping thru a watery mudhole. I rejetted the carb. The bike ran great and was very peppy. Exhaust no longer backfired. After a long ride the hot motor would sometimes stall out when I would creep thru a watery hole on trails. Bike has sat in my shed for MONTHS and I recently went to drive it and it runs like crap. Its hard to start, doesnt want to stay idling, and if I drive it up an incline it stalls. It also stalls if I punch the throttle. I went to drive it up my trailer ramps and it kept stalling. I changed the spark plug for new one. I test drove it and same result. I immediately removed plug after 10 min of riding and its already getting black. ANy ideas? DO I need to rejet carb again? I thought I had it dialed in perfect but now it runs like crap. The stalling when I go uphill is really weird. If u need to know the size jets I replaced the stock ones with, Ill have to find the paper I wrote it down on. I did this months ago and cant remember the Jet sizes. I plan on cleaning the carb since it was sitting for several months with no use. I live in FL so this bike never sees severe cold weather. ANy help is appreciate bro.

Posted

I think I`ll have to pull out carb to examine it. I once had trouble with the float sticking and the carb used to get flooded and pour fuel out of overflow line. Maybe float is sticking again? Its just weird the bike runs pretty solid from low throttle to 3/4 throttle, but when I punch WOT it stalls out and when I drive bike on a steep hill it stalls out. Does this sound like the carb is being flooded with gas? I`m no carb expert but I have taken the thing apart several times since I`ve bought bike, so I`m familiar with the components. I think my next ATV will be EFI for sure. LOL! :confused:

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Popular Now

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By 88bigbear
      Bought a 88 big bear 350 4x4 took it for a run and lost spark, found it was stator so I replaced that then took it for a long run and it sat for 2 days and no spark again, this time stator tests good on ohms and voltage for source and pick up coils so I started replacing things including regulator, ignition, ignition coil and plug cap, spark plug and everything tests great including all safety switches until the orange wire for ignition coil from the cdi it only reads 3 volts so I replaced the cdi and still 3 volts, any ideas??
    • By cfherrman
      Fixing for a friend. Atv was at a different friends house to be fixed and he rebuilt the carb and had it running nice, then it shut off and no more. He replaced the key and the coil.
       
      So he got busy, so I am helping, I checked the wiring from the stator to the cdi, and from the cdi to the coil. All is good. I checked resistance on the pickup coil, good, and on the source coil, open. I buy a new stator (China) and the 4 prong plug only has 3 wires in it while mine has all 4. I checked resistance in the source coil and it's in the 300's. I pulled one of the old pickup wires out of the old stator and wire it in the new one. Still no spark.
       
      Why do the wires differ, I checked the VIN again and it's "J" for the year and I got a 1988 stator. Please help!
    • By LashinWheeler
      Hello all, I have a 2006 Polaris Sawtooth with no spark. It has a dead battery but with a jump pack on it, it will still not Spark. Plug is good, Throttle ETC is not closed, Stator pick up coil seems to Ohm out in the correct range, Unsure how to properly check the CDI. And when ignition is on the Neutral and reverse light come on but after cranking just the neutral stays on. 
       
      Any help would be great,
       
      Thanks!
    • By Shorty51
      Good morning, I am new to the forum. I'm 75 years old and love getting ATVs back to usable condition. I particularly like the 2006-2009 Arctic Cat 250 Utility. I currently own 6. The 2006 I am working on only has reverse and low gear. The "drive shaft" in the transmission is completely stripped where the high gear would mesh. Has anyone on here replaced the shaft. I'm told I have to split the case. I was hoping that someone on here could let me know how hard it will be. I already have it stripped down to where the shaft coming in from the clutch side is the only thing left. I was hoping I could just remove the driven clutch and drive it out from there. Directions say different. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
    • By jeffinotown
      Hey guys and gals. I've been working on my friends 2007 big bear IRS. Unfortunately after 3 different people got their hands on it and only made things worse every time.  After months of finding just crazy problems everywhere. I'm finally at the point we're its almost 100% !!! But I'm getting a short somewhere between the 4xW switch I believe. I managed to by searching the internet like a  fiend, got my hands on an official Yamaha wire harness for the year and make. But I don't have the numbered component list and to be honest. After hours of going through and making everything so it's  easy to reference. If anyone has a picture of the referenced components. I would be forever in your debt. I've spent hours marking up the blown up diagram so it will be easy, for any possible future repairs. Please and thank you. Here's a picture of what i have so far.  Unsealed it in plastic so oil and crap won't spill or get smudged. This damn things worth it's weight in gold.              Thanks Jeff                2007 Yamaha big bear 400 IRS.       YFM40FBW
×
×
  • Create New...